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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

Izerous

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Took ~6h at 0.16 layer height (I might have even gone smaller than that) in PETG with default settings in Orca. Color shift PETG makes it look quite interesting. Really quite happy with how that one turned out. Honestly came out almost as good as a resin print on the mage 8k.

I also did a mask for the other kid in the same PETG but I had to tweak the default support structure settings. It was Ok up to a certain part but the speed and the default rectlinear at the height the support structure was going was asking a little took much out of the supports and they turned into spaghetti (failed around 2in tall). Slowing down the supports a bit and changing it from "rectlinear" to "rectlinear grid" mostly solved that problem.

I printed all of the hinged lid riser pieces in just PLA for now and all turned out great.

The default spool holder is in a stupid spot but as mentioned they do provide an alternate on the machines memory, i have a spool heater so I simply just didn't bother with either.

The input shaping and wifi setup is basically part of turning it on.

I really only have one complaint and two nitpicky things so far.
Complaint: Nozzle availiability, propietary nozzle and not commonly availiable right now. Kinda want to mess with a 0.6mm nozzle on this printer.
Nitpick 1: Having to glue the smooth build plate, kinda miss the simplicity of the textured PEI on the other printers (build plate b not commonly available right now but plate a + glue works just fine)
Nitpick 2: The location of the 110V vs 220V switch is weird and easily missed. Mine shipped in 220V mode which is fine, but the switch wasn't where I was looking for it and location not mentioned in the manual. Resorted to having to google the swtich location and felt dumb afterwards for missing it.
 
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SugarJ

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I haven't used any glue on my build plate. It's adhering fine so far, but I expect I'll have to start using white glue at some point. And yeah, I was about to take off the side plate to get to the PSU when I noticed the hole at the bottom. It was a lot more obvious after I took the protective film off.

What spool dryer box do you use @Izerous? I think that's my next purchase.
 

Izerous

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I haven't used any glue on my build plate. It's adhering fine so far, but I expect I'll have to start using white glue at some point. And yeah, I was about to take off the side plate to get to the PSU when I noticed the hole at the bottom. It was a lot more obvious after I took the protective film off.

What spool dryer box do you use @Izerous? I think that's my next purchase.

I grabbed it while it was on sale however. It is nice having all the temperatures pre-configured through the touchscreen is a little weird and touchy at times. I would have liekly prefered a clickable knob or something. Not cheap however it helped salvage some older spools that were stringing quite severely. So considering filament recovered seems appropriate. It recovered a spool I had in open air over a year.
 

SugarJ

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So I just discovered that the K1C automatically generates and stores time-lapse videos for each print. I thought this was something I'd have to enable.🤩 I just spent about 15 minutes watching videos of everything I've printed so far. Tomorrow I'm going to root it and see if I can get Mobileraker to work, then I can check on it from anywhere on my phone. Klipper is so much better than Marlin it's ridiculous.

Edit: I also ordered a set of different size Unicorn nozzles for it off Aliexpress from Creality.
 

Izerous

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I grabbed it while it was on sale however. It is nice having all the temperatures pre-configured through the touchscreen is a little weird and touchy at times. I would have liekly prefered a clickable knob or something. Not cheap however it helped salvage some older spools that were stringing quite severely. So considering filament recovered seems appropriate. It recovered a spool I had in open air over a year.
1 bonus i forgot to mention about this specific model is that it does have basic memory. The reviews on a lot of the cheaper ones don't remember what plastic you last set it to. So each time you power it back on it boots back to PLA even if you last told it to use TPU/PETG settings etc. To me that is a nice to have, Id constantly forget to set it otherwise.
 

sswilson

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1 bonus i forgot to mention about this specific model is that it does have basic memory. The reviews on a lot of the cheaper ones don't remember what plastic you last set it to. So each time you power it back on it boots back to PLA even if you last told it to use TPU/PETG settings etc. To me that is a nice to have, Id constantly forget to set it otherwise.

In theory, will one of these recondition an older roll that's gone brittle or would that roll be too far gone?
 

Izerous

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In theory, will one of these recondition an older roll that's gone brittle or would that roll be too far gone?
If it is brittle because it has taken on moisture a few hours baking in one of these can make a noticeable difference. The spool that was left in the open for over a year about 6 hours of cooking in one of these and it was no longer popping or stringing when trying to do test prints.

I recently picked up bin with a gasket and I'm storing the spools in there now with some desiccant. I just finding printing a somewhat spool shaped holder for the desiccant. I grabbed color change stuff that can be baked to recharge it... if I was to put that in the oven wife would kill me but just finished printing a somewhat spool shaped container to hold the desiccant and I can re-charge it in the spool heater instead.
 

Izerous

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Roland eletric pianos have poorly designed hammer keys prone to failure. I tried to buy replacement parts a while ago and Roland REFUSED to sell me replacements because I was not an authorized repair center. And the only repair center that would even talk to me wanted quite a bit to refurbish the whole piano when I only wanted 3 Hammers. 1 to fix the broken black key and 1 spare white and 1 spare black. Some wonderful people made models to 3d print replacements with just reusing the weights from the origionals. Made the test prints from PETG and finally have a real excuse to load up some CF-PLA and fix the broken key on this piano my wife used for years.
 

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