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Old March 7, 2019, 03:15 PM
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Acrylic or PETG?

Since I noticed it in my own bends too, the 90 degree bends look a bit squished/stretched. I just ended up trying again and again until I managed to get them 'acceptable' to me, but even still, I'm not totally satisfied. Not really sure what the culprit is though. I want to say the ones that came out better were the ones that I left resting around the warm metal mandrel and letting it gradually cool off with the silicone insert still inside. I feel like the 'bad' ones were when I took out the silicone insert when it had only just cooled outside but the silicone was still warmish. Though I think the speed/force used while bending was part of it too.

Still a great transformation
Acrylic. And yea, it's not perfect but flow is still fine. I think in general it is because the bend is too tight. If I were to do it again, I'd practice spreading the heat to a good 3-4" section and try to slowly bend it all evenly. My bends were probably too concentrated in one area.

Once I got the desired bend, I went right to cool/warm water to set it in place. Then removed the silicone insert.
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Old March 8, 2019, 09:28 AM
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If you guys think bending Acrylic or PETG tubing is bad, you should try bending Stainless steel instrumentation tubing :S

When I was an apprentice I thought I was pretty decent until I tried working with that stuff. Thin stuff kinks too easily and the thicker tubing feels like you're trying to bend a brick.

That being said, I'm always tempted to give it a try in a PC, but I'd have to know more about the actual copper used in in rads to make sure I wasn't just creating a massive galvanic corrosion problem.
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Old March 14, 2019, 04:38 PM
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Looks good....the next thing to try out I suppose...the hard tube sure looks nice...tidy.....nice work!!
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Old March 16, 2019, 06:51 AM
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You guys know there's bending math and measurements right? It's not just eye balling stuff. Also, if you leave one of the connection points a bit long it's easier to trim it down and make things look straight.

This is how electricians and plumbers do it at least. If you google some help videos for conduit and soft copper bending the theory is the same.
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Old April 20, 2019, 02:31 PM
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Heat is another factor in making nice bends even heat

melt point 320F

gas point (bubbles) 392F

working temp depends on thickness and type of plastic 275F to 350F

before starting try a test piece for batches of tubing are varying melt/gas point


the bad bend was due to heat area wasn't even enough, too constant in one spot

Last edited by KaptCrunch; April 20, 2019 at 02:42 PM.
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Old April 20, 2019, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch View Post
Heat is another factor in making nice bends even heat

melt point 320F

gas point (bubbles) 392F

working temp depends on thickness and type of plastic 275F to 350F

before starting try a test piece for batches of tubing are varying melt/gas point
Hmm. So you could set a hot air soldering station to like 385 and in theory not get bubbling.
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Old April 20, 2019, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
Hmm. So you could set a hot air soldering station to like 385 and in theory not get bubbling.
yes depends on batch/type

Note: once start heat travels so as less heat is needed further down the tube move more faster from start point or less 90 angle to tube move to 30 or less

would be nice if had a IR thermal imager to see heat foot print of heated area

Last edited by KaptCrunch; April 20, 2019 at 03:14 PM.
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