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Old October 12, 2018, 05:23 PM
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Default Strange performance

Hey guys, so i purchased an h100i v2 for my main pc and it works great , about 10c less than my h60. The liberated H60 was installed on my xeon 771~775 experiment rig. I had used the same h60 on a q9550 a while ago with the same backplate (generic 775 backplate since the newer h60 wasn't compatible) it cooled great on the q9550 and on my 7700k.

I dont know why but the h60 is not cooling very well installed on the xeon 775 mod rig @ 4ghz. Like terrible, 45 -50c idle! Forget about ffts p95, i was hitting 85 before i shut it down... My stock core2 duo hsf was cooling just as well.

It seems to be making good contact with the cpu but maybe not perfect? Like is the xeon thinner or something?
The pump is running at 4100+rpm and the fan is running off the cpu fan header. I really cant figure it out..

Any ideas?
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Old October 13, 2018, 09:46 AM
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not enough fluid in loop
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Old October 13, 2018, 11:19 AM
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ya it could be your problem I have seen myself that fluid can evaporate through the tubing I know it sounds strange but I had it happen to an AIO I had the Antec Kuler 920
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Old October 13, 2018, 12:00 PM
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Probably lack of fluid. Install on the cpu it worked on (and you know the temps). What are they? Are they still good? Its lack of pressure. Bad? You got air instead of fluid in the loop.
Simpler test. Pull the block. Use just a little dab of TIM. Reinstall. Is it a nice circle? Keep upping the TIM. You will probably see more of a smear than a perfect contact patch.
YMMV... but replace the AIO if out of warranty. If not RMA it.
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Old October 13, 2018, 06:15 PM
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Its weird though cause i literally just swapped it from one rig to another. Originally it was on my 7700k @4.5 ghz 1.3vcore (4 days ago) full load temps were 67-70c.

I tried reapplying the thermal paste and when I removed the block it was a seemingly normal contact mark. When i reapplied it I used my normal dot in the middle with same bad temps.

Id rather not put it back on my 7700k as my h100i is already set up. Im thinking of trying a regular 775 chip and see what i get.

In the meantime ill check if its still RMA able.
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Old October 13, 2018, 07:44 PM
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Stupid questions time.

1) when it is running do you hear any rumbles or grumbles or 'swooshing' sounds? Could be that you had a bit of air in the AIO's rad... and then when you moved it they moved down and into the block... where they are now stuck. If so, uninstall. Put the rad higher than the waterblock (eg have someone hold the rad up high while you hold the block down low... I usually sit down and hand the rad to someone and sit on the floor)...and shake the shite muslim out of it. Reinstall and see if it goes back to normal. Rinse and repeat as need until it is silent again.

2) Is the mobo messing with the block's pump speed? Some mobos dont have an dedicated AIO port... and it could be 'undervolting' it. Older pumps dont like any speed but FULL SPEED. Plug it into a molex to fan adapter. Check temps.

If both dont work AND the TIM print on the CPU looks good... could be gunk in the block. Was probably a big goober clogging part of your rad that in transport and installation on new rig broke free and is now stuck in your block. IE At some point the fluid separated and the 'good stuff' (... well cheap stuff as AIO fluid is bottom of the barrel fluid) they added to the water is now clogging the micro-fins in the block. If so... and its out of warranty. Pull it apart, degunk it, fill it and you will be GTG.
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Last edited by AkG; October 13, 2018 at 07:52 PM.
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Old October 13, 2018, 08:28 PM
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No odd sounds and at first, i plugged the pump into a molex with the same results. So after that i decided to plug it into the motherboard pw fan header and checked the rpm reading in the bios which was at 4100+rpm.

Your rasing some great points though because I am testing this with the mobo lying flat on a table with the rad just kinda sitting there. Im gonna try it in a "standing" position and see.

As for my rma status, Newegg's website has been down all night so i can't check ..
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Old October 14, 2018, 12:28 PM
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Update:
So I took off the cooler and shook the hell out of it turning it all around and such and I can hear a liquid inside.
I reinstalled it and same temps, BUT then I decided to see what real temp Tmax was set to and it was at 100c.
I searched around and intel says "Tcase" 63c and the Tjmax isnt specified (are they the same?)
I saw in a couple of threads that most people set the Tmax to 85c.
So I set it to 85c in real temp and now temps are much more realistic at full load im hitting 69c
Should I be using 63c in real temp instead?
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Old October 14, 2018, 03:12 PM
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if you heard the fluid means need to add more distilled water


careful of the heat not too much, you don't want to unsolder the end tank of RAD


sand off the paint where you want bung, and use Dremel to make hole, bung outer don't fit hole

then tin the rad and bung then solder it on rad tank


if not confident doing put rad in a bucket of water, so the tank weld seam is covered

$3 copper bung and plug from home depot

sand paper, propane torch, bucket of water, Dremel and solder
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Last edited by KaptCrunch; October 14, 2018 at 04:09 PM.
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Old October 14, 2018, 05:29 PM
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Oh boy! Quite the modification there. There is a screw thingy on the side of the block, i wonder if that is another way to fill it. Besides I have another month left on the warranty, what would I tell them the problem is? Lack of fluid?

Also to go back on what i was saying about the Tmax thing. If 63c is the real tmax, ive got tones of thermal head room. 85c is even leaving a decent amount of room.
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