Go Back   Hardware Canucks > CASES & COOLING > Water Cooling

       
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 10:37 AM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 4,740

My System Specs

Default

Ya, right now, I'd have a hard time in recommending these to anyone. Maybe I'm missing something, it's my first WC project, but once they're seated, they shouldn't start leaking later. Maybe it's vibration? Who knows.
Reply With Quote
  #32 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 10:39 AM
sswilson's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Moncton NB
Posts: 11,448

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarJ View Post
@Dashock: I really liked the low profile look of the Primochill's, which I'm now really regretting.

@sswilson: I have one untouched barb that I'm going to try, if I have issues then the DD barbs I have go in the res. I liked the Primochills because of the low profile and the fact I can get the tubing back off without having to cut it. No issues with my pump or T-line barbs, at least yet.

Yep, I liked the low profile as well, but form over function wins at all times. If they can't be trusted not to leak without good access to ensure that they're properly tight in place then they're not much use to me.
__________________
ASUS SaberTooth 990FX / AMD 1090T / 2X4 Gig Gskill RJ X / XFX Pro 1000W PSU / 2X MSI 560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II / Corsair F120 / WD 6401AALS
TT Lvl 10 GT / DDCPX-Pro / EK XT 240 Rad / 2X Scythe Ultra Kaze / EK Supreme HF / XSPC 250mm Res / Dell Ultrasharp 2209WA

Asus CH IV / Athlon II X2 250 / 4X2 Gig GSkill Pi PC3-12800 / 2X GTS 450 / PC P&C 750W Silencer / PA 120.2 /
MCR220-QP-Res / Swiftech MCP350 Pump / XSPC Laing DDC top / EK-Supreme HF / Lian-Li Pitstop T60 / Samsung 931BF
Reply With Quote
  #33 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 11:49 AM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 4,740

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sswilson View Post
Yep, I liked the low profile as well, but form over function wins at all times. If they can't be trusted not to leak without good access to ensure that they're properly tight in place then they're not much use to me.
I think you meant function over form, but I get what you're saying.
Reply With Quote
  #34 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 12:31 PM
sswilson's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Moncton NB
Posts: 11,448

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarJ View Post
I think you meant function over form, but I get what you're saying.
Heh...
__________________
ASUS SaberTooth 990FX / AMD 1090T / 2X4 Gig Gskill RJ X / XFX Pro 1000W PSU / 2X MSI 560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II / Corsair F120 / WD 6401AALS
TT Lvl 10 GT / DDCPX-Pro / EK XT 240 Rad / 2X Scythe Ultra Kaze / EK Supreme HF / XSPC 250mm Res / Dell Ultrasharp 2209WA

Asus CH IV / Athlon II X2 250 / 4X2 Gig GSkill Pi PC3-12800 / 2X GTS 450 / PC P&C 750W Silencer / PA 120.2 /
MCR220-QP-Res / Swiftech MCP350 Pump / XSPC Laing DDC top / EK-Supreme HF / Lian-Li Pitstop T60 / Samsung 931BF
Reply With Quote
  #35 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 02:58 PM
JD's Avatar
JD JD is offline
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 5,755

My System Specs

Default

I had the same issue with those Primochill barbs, though it only leaked on my XSPC top outlet. The rest were all fine. Maybe they just have issues sealing properly on arcylic?

I got me some sexy Bitspower compression fittings now though and they are nice and snug. Definitely not going anywhere.
Reply With Quote
  #36 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 04:28 PM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 4,740

My System Specs

Default

Are those compression fittings available for 7/16" tubing? 5/8" OD.
Reply With Quote
  #37 (permalink)  
Old September 8, 2008, 07:15 PM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 4,740

My System Specs

Default

So, the g.d. o-ring had slipped out of the receiving groove in the res on the back side where I couldn't see it. Must have happened while I carried the machine from the worktable to it's accustomed spot, because it wasn't leaking before.

So I put it back in as far as I could turn with fingers, then cranked it in with pliers, checking the o-ring every 1/4 turn. It's in there good now. Checked all my other barbs while the loop was dry, they look ok. BTW, all leaks I found were around barb threads, not from tubing. The Primochills seem to seal fine with zap straps.

We'll have to blame this one on operator error, unfortunately.
Reply With Quote
  #38 (permalink)  
Old September 16, 2008, 11:03 AM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 3,184
Default

Yeah I've seen many people having issues with hose, I think the reason is because the screw part that goes into the barb holse are too short.

But nice setup there Sugar, really looks cool, your giving me a good idea of putting a T line to drain my loop, honestly luckily I took all hardware out first, and took the case outside in my back yard, I made a mess draining my loop, it wasn't fun. Quick question, that Koolance t-line you have, the end where you got a small tube for draining the loop, that end can you block the t-line to send liquid over to that side?
Reply With Quote
  #39 (permalink)  
Old September 16, 2008, 11:44 AM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 4,740

My System Specs

Default

Sorry, I don't quite understand the question. That Koolance block comes with 5 holes and 2 caps. I set it up the way I did to have the least flow restriction through the block. The drain line fluid doesn't really circulate, at least according to the bubbles when I first started the loop.

Are you suggesting an inline valve so the fluid would pump out the drain line? i.e. block the outlet side of the t? I personally wouldn't do that, I wouldn't want to run my pump dry. It gravity drains the system pretty well as is, with a bit of tilting. I actually drain the loop, then set the case on it's rear face (where the plugs go) and drain again. Most of the fluid comes out of the rad and loop this way. That's what I did when I changed over to the Blood Red XP+, anyway. Just realized, I get away with this because of the internal mount.
Reply With Quote
  #40 (permalink)  
Old September 16, 2008, 12:16 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 3,184
Default

Well sorry you couldn't understand, I try my best, my english = not so good. Well the tube for the drain (Sitting on the psu) does it have any liquid, what I really mean is, the tube you have for draining the liquid out of the loop, have you blocked the t-line to allow water to go to it. Or everything is unblocked, you have just capped the tube for liquid to leak out. Sorry its hard to explain :S
Reply With Quote
Reply

 

Thread Tools
Display Modes