SugarJ's 900 Internal WC Project

[3.0charlie]

Are you leak testing with flow, ie. the pump working?

[enaberif]

You may want to think about that koolance block.

Supposedly theres a problem with some of them that the plugs are stainless steel and rust fairly quickly.

[sswilson]

Originally Posted by SugarJ

So, the loop's in place, case reassembled, leak testing overnight again. If all's good tomorrow morning, mobo slides in, PSU goes back in, and I have another oh sh** moment while I hit the power. But I feel a lot better having drained, moved, and reassembled the loop with no immediate leaks. Those Primochill ghost barbs are easy to put the tubing on, but I recommend wrapping them (to protect the knurling) and then using a pair of pliers to make sure they're in tight enough to seal properly.

Tell me about it..... I was using them on my res and had my first ever leak during leaktesting. To top it off... the lower one leaked initially, and then after I replaced it, the upper one started leaking!!!! They're on the shelf for now. I'll use them on the test bed where I have better access to them to ensure they're tight in place.

[SugarJ]

@ 3.0 Charlie: Yes, the pump is humming along again. No bubbles visible in lines, a small amount of foam in the top of the res.

@enaberif: Ya, MpG gave me a heads-up about that, but because I've got PC ICE, not distilled water, it apparently shouldn't be a problem. But I will look for some replacement caps when I order more stuff. I'm glad I've got that drain line in there, it makes it soooo easy to drain the loop. Although I could dismount the res and turn it over to drain too.

Edit: sswilson, yup, you really have to inspect the barbs to make sure the o-ring is seated properly. I learned that one about 14 seconds after I started to fill the loop for the first time.

[SugarJ]

Well, spent a couple of hours this morning getting everything inside the box and doing some cable management. I inverted the PSU to get the cables closer to the new hole as there's no openings on the top or bottom of the Silencer. I won't be showing you the back side of the mobo, or the bulging back cover.

Idle temps with the Tri-cools on low - 26 degrees. Load under OCCT - 32-33 degrees, running 9x435 @ 1.34 V. I was at 45 degrees with the Ninja. Now to lay the boots to it, see how far I can push the old E8400.

This will be it for now, until I get some dye-bombs and new fans. Then maybe a GPU block? Not sure, but I really enjoyed this project. Thanks for looking.

[SugarJ]

. The top barb is leaking on my res again. Steve, was your res leaking with the Primochill barbs? I'm wondering if it is an issue with the fit of the barbs in the Swiftech res. It's not a bad one, one drip every 5 minutes right now. Off to drain the loop again. Sigh.

[Dashock]

any purticular reason you didnt choose the Swiftech metal barbs SugarJ?? Nice looking block btw.

[sswilson]

Originally Posted by SugarJ

. The top barb is leaking on my res again. Steve, was your res leaking with the Primochill barbs? I'm wondering if it is an issue with the fit of the barbs in the Swiftech res. It's not a bad one, one drip every 5 minutes right now. Off to drain the loop again. Sigh.

Yes, that's exactly the issue I had. It also gets progressively worse. I just swapped them out and the issue went away.

[SugarJ]

@Dashock: I really liked the low profile look of the Primochill's, which I'm now really regretting.

@sswilson: I have one untouched barb that I'm going to try, if I have issues then the DD barbs I have go in the res. I liked the Primochills because of the low profile and the fact I can get the tubing back off without having to cut it. No issues with my pump or T-line barbs, at least yet.

[3.0charlie]

Well, you just unknowingly convinced me in not buying those barbs. I like to try new stuff, but this time around I think I'll pass...