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  #41 (permalink)  
Old July 4, 2008, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
Yup, good thing to start the lay-out physically.
You bought which GPU blocks?

Koolance full coverage blocks... will be a few weeks..... but dont wanna dismantel the system for I use it everyday......


and the 90's are for "just incase",,,,, I will avoid using them if I can... but the rad will be so close to the res...i might not have a choice. I will have to move everything aorund if I want to put the res in the top of the case.. Ill have to move the DVD player down which means switching the fans around...
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Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid

Last edited by frosty; July 4, 2008 at 06:40 PM.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old July 4, 2008, 06:49 PM
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3.0 "I kill SR2's" Charlie
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So you bought the Koolance blocks and the fitting adaptor? Great! Can't wait to see this assembled.
You have time to improvise then... try all configurations possible. One will fit. And try not to use 90* fittings...
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old July 5, 2008, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
So you bought the Koolance blocks and the fitting adaptor? Great! Can't wait to see this assembled.
You have time to improvise then... try all configurations possible. One will fit. And try not to use 90* fittings...

I just hope I purchased the right fitting adaptor!! There was a 2 card slot and a three card slot and even a four card slot... I purchased the 2 card slot hoping it was right.

Funny how big I thought this case was... LOL.... not anymore once I shove a watercooling setup inside. I opened up the CPU block lastnight and cleaned everything and placed the barbs on so its ready to go.

I was going to use the T-line for the Fill port.... I was hoping I could run the cable to the rear of the case and hook it up back there with a quick disconnect to fill. T-lines are okay to use right?


And for the record, the 90 degree elbows are not 1/4NPT. they are 3/8 NPt with a 1/2 hose barb.... They are very open and unrestricted... I cant see it hurting the flow at all if I had to use one. ITs not like they are 1/4 npt on the inside which i can see casuing a problem... thats why I have the larger ones....

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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old July 5, 2008, 05:53 AM
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1/2" tubing requires a lot of space, since it won't make sharp bends. That's why I swear by 3/8" hoses for all my rigs. You could always use 7/16"; usually those hoses have a thinner wall.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 04:54 PM
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well i have the rad in...... but not without problems...... but we'll get to that later...

I also have the pump in (roughly). I had to cut out the bottom of one of the cages to allow the pump to fit. I also HAD to use a 90 degree elbow off the pump.

heres the rad installed.. how does it look?







now heres the problem....

is this rad screwed???? The hole is exactly between the to channels and I think it only hit the shrowds and not the side walls.... I blew on one end of the fittings and coverd the other end with my finger and I could not hear any noise or feel anything....BUT I UNDERSTAND there is alot more pressure form the pump when the loop is closed..






DON'T ASK!!!!!!: censored:
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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 05:34 PM
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Doesn't look too bad to me. As long as those tubes aren't punctured, you can do whatever you want to the fins without a leak happening. But you're going to be leak-testing first right? Right?

For a quick, half-decent check, pull the rad and hold one inlet under the tap, letting water go in (slowly), and make sure that the only place water exits is the outlet.

If it happens that there's a tiny pinhole leak, you can often fix it with something like JB Weld or equivalent. But it doesn't look like it from the photo.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 05:43 PM
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I don't think so either. The channel does not seem to be damaged. If you really want to be safe, assemble a quick loop on a table with the rad, res and pump and leak check for 24 hours.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 07:48 PM
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I think your fine
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Last edited by magictorch; July 9, 2008 at 08:25 AM.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 09:16 PM
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thanks.. that makes me feel better... blocks will be here Friday I hope. Does the Rad look okay?
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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old July 8, 2008, 09:18 PM
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radiators are quite sturdy and tho it doesn't take much to damage them, you can pretty much as said remove all the fins and the rad will still work just not as efficient.

That looks fine but as stated.. leak test it.
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