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Old June 17, 2008, 06:08 PM
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Default Here I go again...

Some of you may remember my thread from way back in October...
Watercooling the Antec 900

Anyways, I have that watercooling bug in me again, though this time I've totally killed my budget... Hopefully I actually pull the trigger on it this time around.

I don't think there's anything that needs changing, but maybe you guys will spot something.

From NCIX (price matched of course):
  • D-TEK Customs Fuzion V2 CPU Water Block S478/LGA775/S939/AM2/S754 1/2IN Barbs
  • Fuzion V2 Quad Core Nozzle Insert for Use with D-TEK Customs Fuzion V2 CPU Water Block
  • Swiftech MCP355 High Performance 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 3/8IN Barbs
  • Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black G1/4 Threaded
  • Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT Clear 3/8IN ID 5/8IN OD Tubing (10 Feet)
  • Primochill 3/8IN G1/4 Nickel Plated Brass High Flow Barb Tool Free Ghost Fittings (Pair)
  • Primochill 5/8IN ANTI-KINK Tube Coils - for 5/8 Inch OD Tubing - Black
  • Feser One Fluid UV Blue NON-CONDUCTIVE Water Replacement for Liquid Cooling
  • Swiftech MCB-120 Radbox Revision 2 Black
From USA retailers:
  • XSPC Premium Laing DDC Clear Acrylic Top
  • Bitspower 5.25" Bay Reservoir POM Version - Black
  • Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Male to Male Thread
  • Koolance Coolant Fill Port [10mm, 3/8"]
  • Herbie Clip® Nylon Hose Clamp Size F - Black
Along with some UV LEDs and CCFLs.

Now for the plan:
  1. Mount the radiator on the back with the barbs at the top. Drill holes near the top of the case to allow the tubes to pass through into the radiator.
  2. Mount the reservoir in my top drive bay, but upside down so that the hole on the "top" of it is facing down wards. Use the male-male fitting to connect the pump.
  3. Drill a hole in the top MP3 player tray or whatever you want to call it. Mount the fillport and plumb it into one of the inlet/outlet bards on the reservoir.
That's basically what I want to do. I don't really see why it wouldn't work, but do tell if you think there may be issues. I'm hoping it will take up just 2 drive bays, but it seems like it'll be a tight fit. Worse comes to worse, I'll move around my drive cages and DVD-RW, and modify the empty drive cage to allow for more room.

I was originally going with the Black/UV Blue Feser coolant, but apparently it looks more purple than black. If anyone wants to confirm/deny this that would be great.

My plans are to make it look really awesome though, even if it's my first time, I want it to look the best I can make it. Also I want to keep some upgrability options open such as adding a GPU block.

CanadaRox has already bugged me about doing a worklog once I do this. I'll see what I can do, though I'm no writer. You'll definitely get pics.

Sorry for the kinda long post
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Old June 17, 2008, 06:55 PM
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I've never WC'd myself so i don't know if this is an issue, in every other thing in the world it is lol. You are using mixed bard sizing throught your parts, this may cause issues with your tubing size and getting a good seal between the hose and barbs.
Maybe someone else who has water cooled a computer before will be able to shed some light on this potential issue.

Edit: NVM I missed the barbs in the list the first time i looked at the list.
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Old June 17, 2008, 08:41 PM
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Sounds like your plan could work. It could be some tight bending in and out of the reservoir, though, even for 3/8" tubing.

When setting the up the reservoir, try to use one of the lower inlets for the main inlet (to minimize splashing noise), and use one of the higher inlets for the filling tube (to make sure air doesn't can trapped when the fluid levels are high).

Personally, I'm not sure those ghost fittings are anything special, but if you post a worklog, feel free to give your impressions of them. I saw a post once claiming that you didn't need to use clamps with them... you're not planning something crazy like that, are you?
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Old June 17, 2008, 09:49 PM
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Well if you look at the reservoir, it's not really deep, so I don't think the tubing will be too much of an issue. Since it's going to be upside down compared to these pictures, the higher inlet would be on the left side which is perfect as the fillport should be easily connected to it. The right inlet would be from the CPU block I suppose. My only issue is that the mounting holes won't match up, so I might need to tap new ones or just glue/tape it in. I guess I could always just drill holes in my case as well.




The ghost fittings are a bit cheaper I think, so I thought I'd give them a shot. I am still buying clamps though and intend to use them. Maybe I'll go crazy though
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Old June 19, 2008, 11:07 PM
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So it's all good I presume?

Probably going to order it tomorrow, otherwise I never will...
Going to grab an Antec Quattro 850W too since they're on sale, along with free shipping using 500 points.
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Old June 20, 2008, 09:33 PM
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Personally I don't think the Feser stuff looks purple once you get the concentration up to the recommended level, but maybe some people are fussier than me about that.
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Old June 21, 2008, 08:02 PM
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Well I ordered all the NCIX stuff on Friday, before I saw the HWC deals...

On Monday I'm doing the USA stuff. Going to grab two 40mm fans as well to direct some airflow over the pump since I hear it gets rather hot.
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Old June 22, 2008, 07:55 PM
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Everyhting seems all right, Havent not seen any clamp tough (just saw them!). I personnaly use metal worm clamp for the hardware store they feel safer.... but if you do, remember : metal worm clamp+plastice babrs=trouble.

second, the fill port, you'll need some kind of t-line, so you can put the fill port onto. I watercooled my antec 900 (I have moved to Mountain mods now, so no pics, sorry ) and tought about drilling the hole on top. I opted against it, cause I could move the fill port for draining, if it is tied to the case, you wont be able to do that. Unless you want to use the inverted resevoir. Not sure you will have enough space under it with the hard drive bay tough, but if it works, nice thinking.

for color, just make sure it is uv reactive with the CC you'll have.

this may look stupid, but believe me when it leaked it was not funny...

When you take the original top of the 355, there is an o-ring attached to it, make sure to put it back when installing the custom top. My petra's top was flowing everywhere, and before I decided to look under the original swiftech/laing cap, there was 30 minutes of deep frustration....
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Old June 22, 2008, 08:17 PM
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Actually after reading about these new compression barbs, I think I might "upgrade" to those eventually. Hopefully the plastic clamps work fine for now. Home Depot is just down the street anyways though...

If I ever need to drain it, I could just flip my case upside down and the top fillport would become a drain port

Thanks for the advice on switching the top. I probably would of missed that too.
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