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  #21 (permalink)  
Old April 4, 2007, 07:08 PM
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Hi guys, i'll be putting everything together soonly and i've got a few questions before getting started.

What clamps do you use/prefer ? I'm planning to use worm-drive clamps instead of the plastic ones.(Looks more solid) Comments ?

Are any of you using teflon tape to seal the threads ? I've heard good things about using it to prevent eventual leaks. Comments ?

I've ordered the Hydrx additive from swiftech, was it a good choice ? Is it sticky ? Will it stain the tubes ? I definitely want the liquid to be UV reactive and I thought it was the best option as it also acts as a an anti-algae formula and such.

Thanks in advance!

Here's the setup, i'll upload pics once i receive everything.

Block : Swiftech - Storm rev1
Pump : Swiftech - MCP-655
Rad : Dual-120 Weapon Heatercore w/ shrouds

T-line, DD Fillport and tygon 1/2" ID Tubing, pretty simply eh?




Ah looks like editing the title doesn't work, "WC Build" will be ok. Thanks!
I always used Plastic clamps & Zip-ties. But recently i purchased some worm drive clamps and it seem to be doing a pretty much better seal.

I don't think you would need to put teflon tape around barbs. Well, i never used some and never ever got a leak from a barb that wasn't sealed correctly. Normally, the barbs come with a -ring which prevent it from leaking.

Swiftech's HydrX wasn't the best choice. Lots and lots of persons on XS says that it clocked there storm after sometime. Which wouldn't be in any way good for you. Performance would be reduced. You should have got some G11 Pentosin UV blue like i did. PPls on XS only recommend that stuff. Also, you could simply go with 100% Distilled water and maybe add some alcohol to prevent algae build-up. And yes, it will stain your tubing like most additives.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old April 4, 2007, 08:57 PM
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Thanks pat :) I was hoping you to stop by tbh

Have you ever seen the Pentosin G12 under UV lights ? UV Blue is not really my thing.. i'd prefer green or orange

Thanks supergrover for renaming the thread!
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Last edited by SHaCK; April 4, 2007 at 08:59 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old April 5, 2007, 06:52 AM
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Thanks pat :) I was hoping you to stop by tbh


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Have you ever seen the Pentosin G12 under UV lights ? UV Blue is not really my thing.. i'd prefer green or orange
Yes. I did see it and it looks more pink than red or orange. Might want to get this one if you don't like blue : Petra's Tech Shop It's not UV reactive thought
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Old April 5, 2007, 09:05 AM
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I won't sleep properly if my loop isn't UV reactive ;)

What about the combination of something like Zerex (Getting some NOS Super coolant actually) + UV Dye ?

Either http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...e=Danger%20Den or http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...-Tek%20Customs
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old April 5, 2007, 10:25 AM
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I won't sleep properly if my loop isn't UV reactive ;)

What about the combination of something like Zerex (Getting some NOS Super coolant actually) + UV Dye ?

Either http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...e=Danger%20Den or http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...-Tek%20Customs
Mixing coolants will only degrade performance man!

Come on screw the UV stuff and get what i recommend if you want to have awesome temps like i have!

With my new E6600 (And my current WC set-up) at 3.6Ghz (9x400) 1.42v i never get temps over 48Degrees After few hours of stressing (Fans undervolted) with Orthos Small FFTs - Stress CPU test. And i idle at about 23Degrees.

3.6Ghz Idle

Temps with stock E6600

Temps at Idle after 12hours stressing

3.6Ghz while stressing

If you really can't stand having no color or just plain color (The additive i linked you above) then just use your HydrX stuff. But don't come back with a "OMG my temps have increased since a few months!" Because of your storm that has cloged. It's not 100% that it will clog... Still swiftech used to include it in their Apex kit when it would include a Storm WB but i wouldn't take the chance to. lol

Oh and make sure you get Distilled water with your additive of choice. Not tap water!
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Old April 5, 2007, 10:52 AM
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How do you idle at 23?? You must have one cold house- I wouldn't think that it was possible to get lower than 4 or 5 degrees above ambient.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old April 5, 2007, 11:06 AM
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How do you idle at 23?? You must have one cold house- I wouldn't think that it was possible to get lower than 4 or 5 degrees above ambient.
If you think 23 Degrees is cold look at the Stock E6600 idle temps... Ambient temps are about 20 Degrees. I live in my room so it's not that cold

But remember that i have the best rad out there ATM. Thermochill PA120.3 which helps a lot with idle temps at or around ambient temps.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old April 5, 2007, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Patriote View Post
Mixing coolants will only degrade performance man!

Come on screw the UV stuff and get what i recommend if you want to have awesome temps like i have!
..............nah

Anyway, i've just requested a quote at petra's for an MCP655 + the G11 stuff. Guess I will deal with the blue ^^

BTW, I'm going to start with one dual-120 heatercore but if i'm not satisfied i'll add the second one in the loop, I think i'll be fine as far as temp goes :)
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old April 5, 2007, 07:45 PM
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Good luck!

If you need more help when it's time to build that stuff up you know where to ask
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old April 9, 2007, 12:55 PM
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Honestly I think that people get a little bit too anal about additives sometimes.

The D-TEK UV dye is the same stuff that is used in FluidXP+. It's non-conductive, has GREAT colours, and doesn't jam anything up.

Most likely, end users' blocks are being clogged by the water soluble flux coming out of their radiator, which would be the colour of dye because it's been dyed at that point, so they think it's dye build up. Dye is completely soluble in water. In order for the dye to clog something, the gap it's "clogging" would have to be smaller than the size of a dye molecule. It just doesn't make sense.

Any water additive is going to be fine as long as nothing grows in your loop. I use D-TEK dye and iodine. Performance is about equal to pure water.
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