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Old May 18, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Default tri-fire loop, filling/bleeding

Ok so I finally have my system built and ready to drink some feser-one. This is my first water setup so I really have no clue what I am doing other than forum-knowledge. I think I am ready to fill and bleed, but I have a couple of concerns:

1. I put in the T-line after reading the manual for the pump, stating that running dry for even a moment will kill it, got me scared about how I was going to fill it safely. The T-line should help me make sure there is always water at the inlet of the pump. My concern is that now I have two resevoirs... One on the rear rad, and the T-line. How will this behave? Will I be able to use the rear resevoir still, or will water come spewing out of the plug? What are the implications as far as bleeding?

2. Is my T-line long enough?

3. Is one litre of Feser-One Cooling fluid going to be enough to fill the whole loop? I only got one, so if its obviously not (which I fear), then I will just go get a jug of distilled water for the first fill. Can I mix the Feser with distilled water?

4. If/When something goes wrong with crossfire and I have to remove 1 or 2 cards temporarily, how the f$*# am I going to do it? (lol)

That's all for now, if anyone can see something stupid that I have missed and water is going to come spewing out all over the place, please let me know asap :)

Sorry for the huge photos, apparently you cant resize photos on a mac.
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Old May 18, 2008, 11:36 AM
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I don't think for that loop that 1 thing of feser is gonna be enough and no you can't mix distilled water with feser.

I suggest getting say 2 litres of distilled water and run it through your loop to test for leaks and other things so you can judge if your 1 litre of feser will be enough.

T-line is plenty long enough. A t-line will act as a fill port and a "mini-res" if you will.
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Old May 18, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Very clean tube routing! And I notice you're running the Fusion V2!

Multiple reservoirs/T-lines really isn't an issue for bleeding. Not necessary, but it won't cause problems either. The t-line needs to be kept partially full, or the pump will pull air in. And obviously don't run the system without the cap on the rad on, it'll spray like crazy. Personally, I've found that only finger-tightening the cap can still let coolant leak out over time - use a screwdriver to give it that extra turn.

Only thing I might suggest is to change the tubing between the pump and the rad, so that the water's path doesn't have to pull a sharp right angle to get into the pump. It's not a make-or-break, but if the main path went straight through the T, with the T-line intersecting it, it'd be slightly better. Not much room to work with there, I know.

One possibility would be to swap the rads, so that the RadRes is inside the case. More awkward for filling, and I don't know if the extra height will interfere with your drives, but it would let you drop the T-line entirely, and would make your reservoir feed directly into the pump.

As for the three cards, if you have to remove one or two, you're probably screwed. If you're patient, you might be able to get them out of their slots, and cover all the contacts of the "removed" card(s) with good masking tape (doesn't leave residue behind) so that they're not detected by the motherboard. I've seen that partially done when people want to simulate a PCI-E slot with less than x16 bandwidth, so it would probably work to completely hide a card as well. But I don't know if the system/drivers will like one or two cards suddenly disappearing between boots like that.
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Old May 18, 2008, 12:04 PM
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few things.

1. the dtek, pretty sure in should be the center barb, and out should be the outer barb.
2. the line to the first card looks sorta kinked, under pressure it may kink fully.
3. not 100% sure but i think the card blocks wont be cooling anywhere near there capacity. the liquid will just go from 1 card straight threw to the next without going threw the block.
4.tri-fire needs all card connected to each other, you need the first and third connected to each other.
5. i think your using the t-line wrong. the t line should go in a straight part of the loop, not used as an elbow. like it is it wil try and suck equally from both ends of the T.
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Old May 18, 2008, 01:55 PM
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1. the dtek, pretty sure in should be the center barb, and out should be the outer barb.

You're right!! I totally overlooked that. Changing as we speak.

2. the line to the first card looks sorta kinked, under pressure it may kink fully.

Ya pulling it through more helps but then it kinks on the outside... its kind of loose-loose, hope it works ok. If I wrap a zip-tie around it the kink goes away, so I may have to do that.

3. not 100% sure but i think the card blocks wont be cooling anywhere near there capacity. the liquid will just go from 1 card straight threw to the next without going threw the block.

Totally wrong here... they are in parallel, the resistance path in through each block is equal. Think of your car engine, you have 4 intake runners, and the air gets distributed evenly through each of them... its not magic, its physics. So you think the water will just go straight down the left side of the cards then disappear? It has to go somewhere! The left side acts as an intake manifold, sending water through the 3 blocks evenly, and the right side is the exhaust manifold, collecting and exiting the top.

4.tri-fire needs all card connected to each other, you need the first and third connected to each other.

Also wrong... think about it, there are only 2 connectors on each card. Only one link is needed between each card, as stated by ATI. To accomplish that I would need a very flexible 6" long crossfire strap lol.

5. i think your using the t-line wrong. the t line should go in a straight part of the loop, not used as an elbow. like it is it wil try and suck equally from both ends of the T.

I don't think so. If you've ever studied flow dynamics... the pressure (sucking or pushing) is equal in all directions. If anything there will be a small flow drop caused by the water needing to turn the 90, but there just isnt any other way to do it in the space I am dealing with. This way, there is always water sitting on top of the pump inlet.

Thanks MPG for the tip about taping up the pci connectors... good idea. I hope it will all work and I wont need to go there, but one of my cards is a bit sketchy because a prior heatsink bent it, so I am preparing for the worst.

I was originally going to have the res-rad up front, but filling would be impossible without removing drives, and just generally a pain in the ass.

I just picked up a jug of distilled, so if that's all the warnings, here goes nothing!!

thanks dudes ;)
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Old May 18, 2008, 02:56 PM
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paper towel and lots of it .

put it anywhere there might be a potential leak to catch any water that comes out.
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Old May 18, 2008, 05:44 PM
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Well its all filled now, took about 2 hours to get rid of bubbles. It was rather annoying, the bubbles would come towards the T-line and most of them go right past it into the pump again for another round. The second res on the back seemed to help, I would send the bubbles into the back rad, then open the top for a second, some water would leak out but with it the air got out too.

I have a really small leak at the outlet of the front rad, I dont get why its leaking, I replaced the fitting and tightened it plenty, for some reason it just has a really slow drip.

I'm going to let it run like this until tomorrow, if its all dry then I'll hook up the motherboard ;)

Thanks for the tips!
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Old May 18, 2008, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinister View Post
Sorry for the huge photos, apparently you cant resize photos on a mac.
Yes you can.
Open your image in Preview.app(comes with Mac OS X and is the default image/pdf viewer) then do this:

Then adjust these:

Resulting in something like this depending on desired settings:

You can get Gimp for OS X as well as many other freeware, shareware and commercial editors.

I must point out though, at 200-250KB each they are not all that bad because there is only two.
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Old May 18, 2008, 06:15 PM
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Oh, that is beautiful. The only thing that slightly messes up the image for me is the cooling tower that attaches to the DFI board out the back of the case...ugh.

What case is that?
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Old May 18, 2008, 07:07 PM
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It was an NZXT Hush.
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