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Old June 20, 2015, 07:37 AM
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Default Poor cooling with multiple corsair coolers?

As I have posted here already, I've been having extremely bad luck with Corsair AIO Liquid Coolers.

My original system came with a Corsair H60 that had a faulty pump, and as a result the CPU would reach 80C while gaming and 105C when stress testing with LinX. (Can't use Aida)

The original repair/replacement I got for that unit was an H80i. However the noise was unbearable and the machine still reached 75C during gaming and 85C during stress testing.

Now I have an H100i GTX, and even with both the pump and fans on performance mode, I always get 73C while gaming and 76C during stress testing.

So I have to ask, what is limiting my cooling to the point where a working H100i GTX only beats a broken H60 by 7C during gaming?

Is it my case? That's the only possibility I can think of at this point.
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Old June 20, 2015, 07:43 AM
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Could be many things.

What is your voltages set to on your CPU and what CPU? EG are you heavily overclocking say a AMD 135watt monster?
What is your case, and what fans are you using...and in what config? eg 4 120mm 70cfm fans in 2 intake 2 exhaust config.
What else is in your rig? EG are you running 8 hdds (blocking airflow), two overclocked AMD gpus, etc etc.
What TIM are you using...and did you use too much? Too little? When you reapplied the block...was their TIM all over the place? half the CPU was clean? etc etc
What case? Eg is it a 'quiet case' meant for silentPC enthusiasts...but at the expense of airflow?

Did you try having the two fans on dual AIO set to suck in FRESH air from outside the case and exhaust the air into the case? Did the temps get a LOT better? If so its an airflow problem. If not its a mount, TIM, unrealistic expectations problem.
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Old June 20, 2015, 07:56 AM
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yes a picture of set-up

and ambient temperatures
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Old June 20, 2015, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AkG View Post
Could be many things.

What is your voltages set to on your CPU and what CPU? EG are you heavily overclocking say a AMD 135watt monster?
What is your case, and what fans are you using...and in what config? eg 4 120mm 70cfm fans in 2 intake 2 exhaust config.
What else is in your rig? EG are you running 8 hdds (blocking airflow), two overclocked AMD gpus, etc etc.
What TIM are you using...and did you use too much? Too little? When you reapplied the block...was their TIM all over the place? half the CPU was clean? etc etc
What case? Eg is it a 'quiet case' meant for silentPC enthusiasts...but at the expense of airflow?

Did you try having the two fans on dual AIO set to suck in FRESH air from outside the case and exhaust the air into the case? Did the temps get a LOT better? If so its an airflow problem. If not its a mount, TIM, unrealistic expectations problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch View Post
yes a picture of set-up

and ambient temperatures
There are multiple pictures of the setup in the link provided in the first post. To make things quicker though, I'll summarize my system and post them here as well.





The fan setup is as follows:
  • FRONT INTAKE: 2x Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition Blue LED Fans (66.5 CFM Each)
  • REAR EXHAUST: 1x Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition Blue LED Fan (66.5 CFM)
  • TOP EXHAUST: Corsair H100i GTX Liquid AIO Cooler (70.4 CFM x 2)

The build is as follows:
  • MSI Z97M Gaming Motherboard
  • i7 4970K (NO OVERCLOCK)
  • Hyper X 16GB
  • Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming (NO OVERCLOCK)
  • Crucial MX100 512GB
  • Seagate 2TB
  • Seagate 2TB
  • Seasonic 650W
  • Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV (mATX)
  • Sony BRAVIA 40"
  • Windows 8.1 64 bit
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Old June 20, 2015, 09:16 AM
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Yeah, first thing that comes to mind would be to switch the H100i GTX to intake so that it draws the coolest possible air over the rad.

Is this the same CPU over all of the different cooling solutions? If so, and you don't see a major difference between a single vrs a double rad @ load temps I'm inclined to believe it's either a cpu problem (poor bonding with the IHS) or something funky going on with your motherboard that's preventing a good mount (unlikely).

When you take the load off, do the temps drop to 5-10C above idle temps almost immediately, or does it take quite a while for it to drop down to normal idle temps? If it takes a long time then you're not getting a good coupling between the block and the IHS.

edit: Just had a look over at your corsair forums post(s). Did you install Corsair link from here? Hydro Series™ H100i GTX Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler . Assuming the USB is connected properly that should give you info WRT fan and pump speeds. I've actually got mine running at the higher RPM because I find the lower RPM has an annoying noise associated with it. :)

As far as what stress program(s) to use, I see you've got an MSI motherboard, I just use the "MSI(R) Intel(R) Extreme Tuning Utility" that came bundled with my Z87 board. That'll give you full info from temps to frequencies as well as a user configurable graph to monitor temps on.
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Last edited by sswilson; June 20, 2015 at 09:42 AM.
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Old June 20, 2015, 10:58 AM
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is there any temp change if you lay case down with Motherboard flat ?

I see in pic's that your room has multiple systems, is there a enough air change in the room to keep systems cool

other is the clear plastic film removed from water block
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Old June 20, 2015, 11:14 AM
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All good suggestions from others...bottom line is that your temps should not be near where they are with those coolers and a stock clocked CPU. It is something else at fault. As for what that is, I don't know off hand. The setup looks clean and you should have good airflow with those fans. My guess would be something with the CPU to heatsink mount, but it's hard to say. Did you check what voltage the CPU is getting?
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Old June 20, 2015, 10:28 PM
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I would definitely advise against using the Enthoo Evolv's top for exhaust. The solid 2mm aluminum holds hot air in very well and makes radiators heat up very quickly. They should have perforated it more.

Try unsnapping the top first and seeing what the cooler's temperatures are and I almost guarantee they will be noticeably lower. Once done make the cooler an intake from the front if you can, or from the top.
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Old June 20, 2015, 10:43 PM
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Like the others have stated... make the rad intake air instead of exhaust. You are using already warmed air to cool your rad so there's at least 10c you should drop instantly. Even still that cpu shouldn't be more than 5c-15c higher than ambient temps with the rad fans turned to intake.
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Old June 20, 2015, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sswilson View Post
Yeah, first thing that comes to mind would be to switch the H100i GTX to intake so that it draws the coolest possible air over the rad.

Is this the same CPU over all of the different cooling solutions? If so, and you don't see a major difference between a single vrs a double rad @ load temps I'm inclined to believe it's either a cpu problem (poor bonding with the IHS) or something funky going on with your motherboard that's preventing a good mount (unlikely).

When you take the load off, do the temps drop to 5-10C above idle temps almost immediately, or does it take quite a while for it to drop down to normal idle temps? If it takes a long time then you're not getting a good coupling between the block and the IHS.

edit: Just had a look over at your corsair forums post(s). Did you install Corsair link from here? Hydro Series™ H100i GTX Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler . Assuming the USB is connected properly that should give you info WRT fan and pump speeds. I've actually got mine running at the higher RPM because I find the lower RPM has an annoying noise associated with it. :)

As far as what stress program(s) to use, I see you've got an MSI motherboard, I just use the "MSI(R) Intel(R) Extreme Tuning Utility" that came bundled with my Z87 board. That'll give you full info from temps to frequencies as well as a user configurable graph to monitor temps on.
... Unfortunately I can't do that. I could reverse the flow on the top easily enough, but I cannot place the radiator and fans at the front of my computer with the clearance available to me with my graphics card. The card - a Gigabyte Gaming G1 970 - is too long, and doesn't provide enough space in the front to make it an air-intake for the H100iGTX.

I could simply switch the fans on the top to intake fans, but then the airflow is completely messed up. (It should be front/bottom -> rear/top. Not front/top -> rear.)

..... What should I do in this case? (Of course I messed up on picking the most BASE possible part of the system... Ugh.)

The first CPU was with the H60 and H80i - I asked them to replace it when they switched to the H100i GTX. Knowing this, it shouldn't be a bad CPU unless it's been two in a row.

The temperatures drop immediately over the course of about 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, it's dropped 30C to the mid 40's, and further drops in temperature are much slower, usually stabilizing around 37 - 39 idle temp.

Regarding the corsair posts, NCIX is the one who installed Corsair Link for me, and the software seems to work fine - I can change the fans and pump from quiet to performance, but all of my tests are already done in performance, so that can't be a factor. Also, I get no "annoying noise" with the lower rpm setting, so you may want to get that checked.

Thank you for the suggestion on the software, I will take a look at that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond007 View Post
All good suggestions from others...bottom line is that your temps should not be near where they are with those coolers and a stock clocked CPU. It is something else at fault. As for what that is, I don't know off hand. The setup looks clean and you should have good airflow with those fans. My guess would be something with the CPU to heatsink mount, but it's hard to say. Did you check what voltage the CPU is getting?
I have not checked that - but since I've never fiddled with that, shouldn't that be stock as well? (I'll double check though...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch View Post
is there any temp change if you lay case down with Motherboard flat ?

I see in pic's that your room has multiple systems, is there a enough air change in the room to keep systems cool

other is the clear plastic film removed from water block
No, and I wouldn't be able to use the PC that way anyway.

Not my room - that is the NCIX repair area. My tests were done in a one-system room.

... That's been done and never an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 10e View Post
I would definitely advise against using the Enthoo Evolv's top for exhaust. The solid 2mm aluminum holds hot air in very well and makes radiators heat up very quickly. They should have perforated it more.

Try unsnapping the top first and seeing what the cooler's temperatures are and I almost guarantee they will be noticeably lower. Once done make the cooler an intake from the front if you can, or from the top.
The original EVOLV mATX actually has an even thicker top panel. I don't believe this is the issue though since during the first of the two tests I ran with the H100i GTX, I was still cleaning and placing the panels back on - so the temperatures only changed by 2 - 3C when i placed it back on.

So what's the verdict, Canucks? Am I forced to get a new case? What am I possibly doing wrong?

Once again, to everyone saying I should change my fans to an intake, I can't do that without violating the rule of "bottom/front to rear/top" regarding airflow. There's not enough clearance on the front of my case to attach the radiator+fans.

Knowing this and the above, what are my final options...?

Last edited by BRSxIgnition; June 20, 2015 at 11:58 PM.
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