Go Back   Hardware Canucks > CASES & COOLING > Water Cooling

    
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21 (permalink)  
Old April 29, 2014, 08:28 AM
rjbarker's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Courtenay, B.C
Posts: 5,932

My System Specs

Default

So left it running all thru the night with the pump at just over #2....no new bubbles in Res....looks like its clearing right up.
Still though, I know if I add another 240mm Rad (lower part of case right across from 360 Rad), I'll be able to make a tube run from the 240 Rad to the Inlet on the Res with just a 45.
__________________
Introducing me n my OCD to Watercooling, is like taking an Alcoholic to an "all you can drink" Beach Bar in Mexico

.
Reply With Quote
  #22 (permalink)  
Old May 1, 2014, 05:02 PM
KaptCrunch's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,955
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clshades View Post
what in the hell are you talkin about kapt? You don't need to have a double inlet and a single outlet on a pump. Especially a pump running at 20%... I've never heard of such a thing nor seen it anywhere ever. And I've installed a lot of pumps heh.

If you don't want cavitation you reduce the pump speed and or add a couple pipe diameters before and after the pump inlet/outlet if the flow goes directly in and out with no break from a reservoir like the bay mount XSPC resi's. In which case the pipe diameter length is actually apart of the bay resi itself. It's completely visible too. You are correct about the 90* fittings directly into the pump or directly out of the pump. Any pump I've ever installed is 2-4 pipe diameters. Bigger pumps sometimes require more but I only need to read the installation manual to know what each pump requires they are not all the same.

All your mod is doing is reducing the pressure even more on the already low pressure side of the pump... it's a waste of money and space. Your creation is basically a mini reservoir. Pumps are more likely to cavitate when they are run too fast virtually flash boiling liquid in a tiny air pocket on the downflow side of the impeller which in turn MELTS the impeller. Cavitation is more likely a pump speed issue than a piping problem. Adding a couple pipe diameters before and after a pump helps protect it from turbulent flow which COULD cause cavitation. Due to the fact that computer pumps are such low pressures (I can probably blow harder) I highly doubt this mod will do anything substantial.
really
Avoiding Cavitation by
increasing the total or local static pressure in the system

a pump can only deliver what you let out, not in

you don't see my work you use it
Reply With Quote
  #23 (permalink)  
Old May 1, 2014, 10:07 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,424

My System Specs

Default

Let it go Kapt he doesn't have a cavitation problem. He would more than likely need to run that d5 vario at 24 volts maxed to come close to causing cavitation which by the way would melt the impeller rather quickly and air bubbles would be the least of his worries. Micro bubbles in a water cooling system in the 1st week or 2 is completely normal. I like to see them go away in a week or less personally but depending on the size of the loop it can take a little longer sometimes. Alternatively auto air vents can be installed to relieve thermal pressure and release air but most people here never bother with them.

Dual inlets is a waste of time, space and money period.
__________________
__________________________________________________ __________
"Lesson's cost money... good ones costs lots" -Tony Beets (gold rush)
__________________________________________________ __________
Mah Rig now
Mah Rig before
My stuff for sale.
Reply With Quote
  #24 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 12:09 AM
rjbarker's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Courtenay, B.C
Posts: 5,932

My System Specs

Default

Yean all seems fine...temps seem good...Res is clear ;) Pump still running at #2.....all fans pretty much 60% or so except 3 x 120 Silverstone Penetrator Intakes running full speed ...but there very quiet ;)
__________________
Introducing me n my OCD to Watercooling, is like taking an Alcoholic to an "all you can drink" Beach Bar in Mexico

.
Reply With Quote
  #25 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 03:22 AM
KaptCrunch's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,955
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clshades View Post
Let it go Kapt he doesn't have a cavitation problem. He would more than likely need to run that d5 vario at 24 volts maxed to come close to causing cavitation which by the way would melt the impeller rather quickly and air bubbles would be the least of his worries. Micro bubbles in a water cooling system in the 1st week or 2 is completely normal. I like to see them go away in a week or less personally but depending on the size of the loop it can take a little longer sometimes. Alternatively auto air vents can be installed to relieve thermal pressure and release air but most people here never bother with them.

Dual inlets is a waste of time, space and money period.
correct on setting #1 beyond that issue starts

as to auto vents will be useless in pc for they are for radiant heat systems, big bulky
Reply With Quote
  #26 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 07:12 AM
Ashihtaka's Avatar
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 42
Default

Nice build! I don't quite love the purple tubing, but for an initial setup it looks pretty clean.
Reply With Quote
  #27 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 07:54 AM
rjbarker's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Courtenay, B.C
Posts: 5,932

My System Specs

Default

^^^ Its Fesser 5/8" OD "Blue" Tubing .......not purple.



Kapt
The pump has actually been set to just between #2 and #3 and left there for the past few days......so I dont think the "cavitation" is quite to level you were initially thinking......those bubbles at the start have all cleared up ;)

I have no reason to run the pump at higher level...really, considering my temps.
Thanks for pointing out the importance of non restrictive fittings on the Inlet of the Pump though.....next tear down I'll plan on a simple 45 to the inlet ;)
__________________
Introducing me n my OCD to Watercooling, is like taking an Alcoholic to an "all you can drink" Beach Bar in Mexico

.
Reply With Quote
  #28 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 04:28 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,424

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch View Post
correct on setting #1 beyond that issue starts

as to auto vents will be useless in pc for they are for radiant heat systems, big bulky
Ugh...
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/pressure_valve/

They only need to be installed anywhere an air gap is present like the top of a bay resi etc. Air vents can typically go anywhere heat is present whether you are heating or cooling there only needs to be expansion. It's also a good way to remove air because when water heats up it expands. Pressure will force the air out.

Again you are correct about the 90 degree fitting it is a bad idea. Typically pumps need 2-4 pipe diameters in and out. 1/2' tubing would equate to 1-2 inches. Optimally for MOST pumps 10 pipe diameters is best but often the space required isn't available. Most pumps are engineered for 2-4 pipe diams. Pump speeds directly affect cavitation. Please feel free to investigate it further if you don't understand.
__________________
__________________________________________________ __________
"Lesson's cost money... good ones costs lots" -Tony Beets (gold rush)
__________________________________________________ __________
Mah Rig now
Mah Rig before
My stuff for sale.
Reply With Quote
  #29 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 04:56 PM
KaptCrunch's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,955
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clshades View Post
Ugh...
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/pressure_valve/
Please feel free to investigate it further if you don't understand.
by the way that vent idea taken back in early days of my postings

no need investigate a dripless breather
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #30 (permalink)  
Old May 2, 2014, 05:10 PM
KaptCrunch's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,955
Default

auto vents use a float mine uses fine pourous media to breathe

sorry OP'r for the bickering you done a great build glad you got working
Attached Images
 

Last edited by KaptCrunch; May 2, 2014 at 05:16 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Procyon Going Liquid rjbarker Case Mods, Worklog & Gallery 3 April 26, 2014 02:34 PM
Completed Old liquid cooling build Kartner Case Mods, Worklog & Gallery 17 November 29, 2013 12:05 PM
Best Liquid Cooling For COSMOS II CHICKEN_jr Water Cooling 2 April 3, 2012 08:33 AM
TEC liquid cooling. Overclocker~4.1 Water Cooling 14 September 24, 2009 07:16 PM
Dry Ice and Liquid Cooling? CanadaRox Water Cooling 13 December 27, 2008 07:27 AM