New build input?
Still running an old q6600 build (pic attached) that's getting on 5 years old now. The mobo is starting to go and it's about time I got into an i5 any way so i'm starting to get some plans/ideas together before I start buying some parts. FWIW I'm still using the GTX280... not sure when that will be upgraded, possibly within the year but not a huge priority at this point. However I would like to plan for it. Also I am a mild to moderate over clocker. I usually don't go past the point when yo have to start cranking up the voltage.
I don't really know the cooling requirements for the new hardware so I thought I'd start here. I know with the current equipment I have now the CPU greatly benefited with cooler temps, where the vid card didn't really seem to care about temps as long as they weren't out of control so I ran two separate loops to keep the heat of the vid card away from the CPU, since the vid card loop runs quite a bit warmer than the CPU loop. I see most people don't run dual loops (as has always been the case I suppose) but is the OC'ing potential of the current CPU's still sensitive to coolant temps? I'm still planning a dual loop since I have most of the parts anyway, just wondering if it's worth it. I plan to reuse my CPX1 pumps as well.
Not sure about rads yet as I haven't selected a case yet. So far the Corsair 600T is winning. If that is the case I'll get either dual 3x120mm or 2x140mm, what ever fits better for how I want to lay it out.
So to get the design process started, any thoughts on the dual vs. single loops?
What do you plan on using for a CPU and GPUs? Why switch cases? IMO I'd keep the case and all the cooling equipment. Replace the CPU block since you'll be hard pressed to find mounting brackets for the Fuzion V2.
I'll be using a 4670k, not sure about video yet. I don't game a whole lot and the GTX280 is serving me well enough right now. I'll probably upgrade that within the year and will plan to spend ~$250 or so. Forgot to mention I will most likely add a second video card in the loop, not for SLI, just a lower end card to run some extra monitors.
The case I'm using now is old and kinda beat up. That pic above was from over 4 years ago. I'll repurpose the cosmos case for the NAS as the current one is out of drive spaces. I think its time I retired the heater core rads too. I suspect one is leaking as I slowly lose coolant in that loop. They've been in use for probably 13 years now so they don't owe me anything.
Running seperate loops is a waste of time and material in my humble opinion. Understanding water cooling dynamics would help clarify the reasoning. Typically one 120mm rad per block. If you go with a wide case u could use 140mm wide rads and get a little better performance.
OK there are some pretty broad statements in that post. Care to expand on CPU over clock stability not being affected by heat dump into the loop by the vid card, and how a 2x120mm rad is good enough for the whole system? My experience so far (in the past 20+ years of OCing) has been that CPU stability is greatly dependant on keeping temps down, which is why I'm running dual loops right now. I'm not calling you a liar but I would like to hear your proof.... Since you say "understanding water cooling dynamics would help clarify the reasoning".
I'm not going to type it out on my shitty iphone but I will when i get near a computer
I'm running dual loops in one of the new builds I'm working on. Mind you I'm running massive rad space also and I'm mainly doing dual loops for the looks lol. I was just cooling an i5 2500k and dual 7970s of a 2x120mm rad and it was mehh but i wouldn't recommend it.
1st I will explain that I am currently running dual 6970's OC'd with a slight voltage increase. I am running my cpu 1090t at 3.7ghz 1.45v and my northbridge is volted up a little to accommodate the ram running at 1600mhz HT at 2400mhz. I can tell you for a fact that water cooling the northbridge did far more for overclocking than putting a waterblock on the CPU ever did. I run all this on a single 3x120 rad with 6 low speed fans (1200 rpm max)
Temps Vids folding (55c)
northbridge is pushed the hardest @ 50-54c depending on the folding unit
Water cooling doesn't work like most amature water cooling guys think ok. Your thermal capacity is dictated by the cooling efficiency of your radiator/fan setup. Any radiator is going to have a maximum thermal capacity and that can be adjusted with fans and fan speed or CFM. You dump heat into water which is cooled by the radiator. In a single loop you will see a cpu at a much lower temp than a video card under load. Most people would think the cpu would run at a similar temp as the video card but it doesn't. IF that happened the video card would essentially be flashing water to a higher temperature which I can tell you for certain will never happen as the btu requirements to do that are significantly higher than anything a cpu or gpu can ever do.
Boiling water is 212 degrees at sea level it changes slightly with elevation 1-2 degrees Celcius. Unless you are going for extreme overclocks separate loops will not affect overclocks as substantially as you think. Simply adding another rad to a single loop will help with a reasonably high overclock and keep the temps well within reason.
If anyone wants to expound on this please feel free.
Ok I can see the 3x120 with push pull being able to handle loads. I'm picky about noise... Basically if I can tell my computer is on from my chair then it's too loud. I can hear my system a bit now, but the fans are aging and I'm sure newer fans are probably more efficient at cfm per rpm so I can run them slow, as well as better bearings to be more quiet. So based on older equipment I've found running 3 fans slow enough that you can almost read the label is a lot more quiet than a single fan at full speed. I think I'm going to pick up a few rads and try different fan configurations and speeds and see how they handle some dummy loads. Just need to pick some realistic wattages for the dummy loads. Maybe using my current rig foR the load would work... Just I'm not sure how my current equipment compares to modern stuff WRT heat load.
at some point next year I will be building a full test bench for water cooling stuff. Including a head pressure gauge... it will take a me a while to assemble but I have the space to do it and it's a hobby that interests me.
If the OP is really looking for that maximum overclock that stays stable for weeks on end I'd suggest a coolit elite instead hehe. TEC cooling is far more effective in that regard.
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