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Old April 28, 2008, 04:50 PM
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Zip ties is all you need. I always dip my tubing ends in hot/boiling water for a few seconds, makes them slide on much much easier.
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Old April 28, 2008, 05:46 PM
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To be honest once you've heated the 7/16th tubing it will almost seal over the barbs as it cools. I found the seal was so tight I didn't even need ties- but I put them on anyway. My old aquarium canister filter with barbs and tubing doesn't have ties- never had any leaks.

It seems the biggest risk from leaks is where you crack barbs from over-tightening or squash the plastic seal by over-tightening. Anyway watercooling is a lot of fun!!
-plus the ladies love it
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Old April 28, 2008, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magictorch View Post
-plus the ladies love it
Yeah......
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The Vortex H20

Coolermaster ATCS 840 w Window panel
MSI Z77A-GD65
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHZ 1.28v
Galaxy GTX 680 @ 1241MHZ
8GB Mushkin Blackline 1600MHZ 9-9-9-24 1.5v
Asus Xonar Essence STX
OCZ Z-Series GOLD 850W
2 x 128GB Corsair Force GT SATA3 SSD RAID0 :)
Acheiva Shimian Q270 Lite 2560x1440

Benq W500 Pojector.

Watercooling:
EK Supreme HF, EK FC GTX 680 Block, MCR320+Gelid Silent 12 Push/Pull, DD Pump, EK Multioption 100ml Res, EK Coolstream XT 220 RAD Gelid Wings Push/Pull.
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Old April 29, 2008, 05:36 AM
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Alright so just keep a lot of zip ties to tie the end now i been readin a lot about testin the loop before yu actually run yer parts on it. This is how im going to do it i have another desktop computer im going to add the motor to that computer and run the loop any instruction on how i got abouts with that process would be awesome in regards to how much i fill the radiator too before i turn on the pump. And you said you dip the tube in hot water im guessin hot tap water but doesnt that infect the tubing??
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Old April 29, 2008, 04:31 PM
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filling, bleeding and testing new loop

Have a look at the above thread for some suggestions. Just boil some distilled water and put the ends of the tube in till its soft...much easier to work with. As for filling that was the hardest part for me- the answers are in the thread link. I found it took awhile for the bubbles to go-5hrs-plus it took a lot of on and offs with the pump so it didnt run dry=BAD. I also had to detach the res/rad from the back of the case and lift it over the case (on its side) to get the biggest bubble out. As you suggested run the pump independently of the system for testing and filling..youll be fine.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old April 30, 2008, 09:19 AM
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thanx magic will do once i get all the parts cheers!
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Old May 1, 2008, 07:32 AM
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The Swiftech solution i have to mix with Distilled water is going to turn the whole thing green right is there any solution that will make it blue ?
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Old May 1, 2008, 10:54 AM
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make sure you post a worklog of your watercooled rig

im working on the wife to get some watercooling in my main 939 rig, so i could crank up the fsb past 333 on that opteron
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old May 1, 2008, 11:22 AM
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Swiftech only has Green coolant. There are brands like Primochill and Feser One that make other colours. The Primochill I believe has the nicest blue. Kinda expensive though
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The Vortex H20

Coolermaster ATCS 840 w Window panel
MSI Z77A-GD65
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHZ 1.28v
Galaxy GTX 680 @ 1241MHZ
8GB Mushkin Blackline 1600MHZ 9-9-9-24 1.5v
Asus Xonar Essence STX
OCZ Z-Series GOLD 850W
2 x 128GB Corsair Force GT SATA3 SSD RAID0 :)
Acheiva Shimian Q270 Lite 2560x1440

Benq W500 Pojector.

Watercooling:
EK Supreme HF, EK FC GTX 680 Block, MCR320+Gelid Silent 12 Push/Pull, DD Pump, EK Multioption 100ml Res, EK Coolstream XT 220 RAD Gelid Wings Push/Pull.
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