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Old May 15, 2013, 04:26 PM
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Default Converting a Heatkiller v3.0 1366 to 1155

Hi everyone,

With haswell and the new NVidia cards coming out this month, I think it's time for me to upgrade the beast. I'm using a Heatkiller 3.0 nickel-plated cpu block that I bought a few years ago from Dazmode. I'm really happy with the block and I'd like to keep it. I've seen that there are conversion kits for it that would allow me to use it with haswell, but I've read a few posts by people saying they ruined theirs attempting the conversion.

Is there anyone here that has done this before, and if so, how hard was it?
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Old May 15, 2013, 04:38 PM
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You'd need this.
Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® CPU 3.0-Series 1155/1156 Black

I don't think it should be all that hard to do. Remove hex screws w/ included allen wrench. Remove old mounting plates. Install new ones. Make sure the o-rings are still in place. Reinstall hex screws. Profit.

I am not sure how someone could ruin their block by just replacing mounting plates.
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Old May 15, 2013, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
You'd need this.
Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® CPU 3.0-Series 1155/1156 Black

I don't think it should be all that hard to do. Remove hex screws w/ included allen wrench. Remove old mounting plates. Install new ones. Make sure the o-rings are still in place. Reinstall hex screws. Profit.

I am not sure how someone could ruin their block by just replacing mounting plates.
Yeah, I don't have experience with the heatkiller blocks specifically, but many blocks convert from intel to amd in a similar manner so I don't see why there would be an issue.
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Old May 15, 2013, 05:22 PM
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I don't remember specifically, it's been a few weeks since I've looked it up, but IIRC, many people mentionned that there were small pins inside the block that needed to be re-ajusted properly and that they were easy to damage.
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Old May 15, 2013, 10:57 PM
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I did the changeover from 1366 to 1155 with that exact "Vernickelt" block a few weeks ago. There's pins in there, not screws like the HK instruction book says. I had 2 of the 4 drop out right away, and the other 2 dropped out with some light tapping on the "flanges". Because the nickel plating narrows the gap the replaceable flanges fit into, you'll probably need to drive them out with a small hammer, and drive the new ones in that way too. At least that's what I did. If the flanges are in the correct position, the pins will drop back in without any friction. I had 3 of the 4 do that, and lightly tapped the 4th one in.

I can see how easy it would be to scratch the finish, especially if you put it in a vise or something. I just held in in my hand while tapping the plates off and back in.
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Old May 27, 2013, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spblue View Post
I don't remember specifically, it's been a few weeks since I've looked it up, but IIRC, many people mentionned that there were small pins inside the block that needed to be re-ajusted properly and that they were easy to damage.
There is no such thing, but you need to make sure that rubber o-ring is in place otehr wise you cut it when tightening the screws.
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