Hardware Canucks

Hardware Canucks (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/)
-   Water Cooling (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/water-cooling/)
-   -   Having the hardest time bleeding my loop (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/water-cooling/60442-having-hardest-time-bleeding-my-loop.html)

mojojj March 28, 2013 12:41 PM

Having the hardest time bleeding my loop
I posted this in my build log thread as well.

I'm having the hardest time bleeding my loop. =(

I posted on OCN (Swiftech H220 Owners' Club) regarding my pump. It seems like it just kept sucking air, and I was scared I damaged it.

H220 pump noise - YouTube

Swiftech says it's a problem with my loop design, so I've have to diassemble and re-think the loop. Here's what I had originally planned out.


In the above picture, the GPU is connected to the inlet port of the H220 pump. My thoughts were that the yellow fill tube would provide enough water to the H220 to keep the inlet tube full. For the most part it did, the inlet tube was never out of water. However the pump still continued to suck air and I didn't know why. Swiftech said that there was probably a big air pocket trapped in the pump that refused to come out. I spent almost 5 hours bleeding the loop and the problem still persisted.

The new setup now has the top rad going directly into the inlet of the pump. Problem is that my fill port is still on the graphics card (the yellow tube). It definitely doesn't look as nice, there are tubes cross all over the place. It's a little easier to fill, but I'm still in the process of bleeding.

Question is: should my original plan have been ok? If I add a t-block + fill line between the GPU and pump inlet, would that work better?

ZZLEE March 28, 2013 03:29 PM

pic off your res and tubes.

actual Pic. please ?

stephengillon March 28, 2013 03:41 PM

first and most basic ways its rocking the case back and forth slowly.

tipically the rads will always get a air lock, if you can unscrew them and carefully move them around the air will rush out.

your 120mm rad at top is your highest point there will be air lock for sure.

ZZLEE March 28, 2013 04:37 PM

try on its side with res the highest point.

mojojj March 28, 2013 04:47 PM

No res, only a fill port connected to gpu block

lowfat March 28, 2013 05:28 PM

I think you are going to have serious issues bleeding it w/o a reservoir in a system w/ that many blocks and radiators. A t-line would be fine but not with the videocard between it and the pump.

stephengillon March 28, 2013 05:54 PM

just keep an eye on your water level, shouldnt be to bad really technically it would count as a res just small one.

just watch the air as it starts reaching the second rad and gpu turn your pump off and let air float up and out. then add more coolant and reapet

ZZLEE March 28, 2013 06:00 PM

one off these will help allot.

Swiftech MCRES-MICRO-R2 Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir 3/8IN & 1/2IN Barb Fittings

worth the money.

Masteroderus March 28, 2013 06:01 PM

You have to branch off from the outlet of the cpu block. Otherwise it won't prime properly.


To explain better, it seems you're branching off so that the inlet on the cpu block is fed from the gpu. This means your pump won't prime without a lot of screwing around (if at all).

mojojj March 28, 2013 08:06 PM

Yea, screwing around is an understatement. I just spent another 4 hours bleeding this thing, I can skip arms and chest day at the gym this weekend. Like stephengillon said, there's going to be a tiny bit of air locked in the top radiator, but it's settled at the top now. The loop change seems to have worked.

Gotta say, the pump is pretty quiet at 1600 RPM. There's the buzzing sound that's associated with the motor, and the vibration from a hard mount. Overall pretty impressed with the pump. Haven't done any overclocks yet, but CPU is at 60 deg, GPU at 49 deg. That's a 3570K at 3.8 and a 7950 at stock. Running Prime95 small FFT and Heaven 4.0 1 hour.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:47 PM.