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  #21 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 10:00 AM
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Hmmm I'm concerned about reheating it again.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark View Post
Hmmm I'm concerned about reheating it again.
have rad in water an leave tank top dry just the joint to tank an below wet
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 02:33 PM
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Great idea. I placed the entire rad in a container of cold water and added some wet clothes on either side of the whole. Took it off the solder and bolt, cleaned, and soldered the bolt as well as the drain area, then put them both on...heated them up and it's solid !. Running the rad in a siimple loop test for a few days for leaks...so far so good. Thanks
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Old March 17, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark View Post
Great idea. I placed the entire rad in a container of cold water and added some wet clothes on either side of the whole. Took it off the solder and bolt, cleaned, and soldered the bolt as well as the drain area, then put them both on...heated them up and it's solid !. Running the rad in a siimple loop test for a few days for leaks...so far so good. Thanks

pic's
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 02:47 PM
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Here they are.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 02:58 PM
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all good just around 3:00 area of pic looks could use a wee bit more solder if solder flowed like on 9:00 but smaller puddle its ok

but hey pratice makes perfect more heat on metal @ 3:00 seems your torch left hand
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Old March 17, 2013, 03:02 PM
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camera shot is on an angle but it's equal all around. Was holding the rad while it was circulating and my iphone on my other hand .. lol :)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 04:40 PM
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To the OP.. that joint doesn't look quite right.

I would use mapp gas personally it's faster and easier to control.
I wouldn't ever solder something in a bucket of water I wan't that thing to get to the right temp and I want it to cool slowly not quickly. I want the heat to draw the solder into the joint and that works by heating the tank not the nut... a little heat on the nut BUT mostly heat on the tank.
It's called capillary action.

Clean the nut and tank hole by sanding
Flux the tank and the nut
Set nut in hole
Wipe away any excess flux
Do not touch the areas you want to solder with your skin the oil off your skin will screw up the joint
heat The tank mostly... a little to the nut to bring the temp up.
Touch the solder to the area you are trying to fill. When the temp is right the solder will wick itself in.
Remove heat and keep adding solder
Add heat if the solder stops working right.
Too much heat is bad as it boils the solder a bit and you get air bubbles in the joint which is a potential leak.

The hole you drilled should be BARELY bigger than the nut or this will NOT work... the joint needs to be tight as a nuns WHOHAH.

Do not apply heat to the solder itself with the torch it doesnt work like that.

let the joint set for a couple minutes then wipe away any little bits of mess... CAUTION its HOT. If the nut moves during wiping re-solder.

I have to ask Kapt are you a plumber?
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Last edited by clshades; March 17, 2013 at 04:46 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 04:45 PM
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Nice info but it's all good. Temps were not that cold and it's a very strong bond by all accounts but very informative thanks. :)
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old March 17, 2013, 04:47 PM
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In the end dude... it doesnt have to be pretty it just has to NOT leak ;)
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