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Old March 15, 2013, 07:46 PM
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Yeah, I'm leaving it right side up. Drilled a 1/8" whole and glued in a brass bolt with J-B Quick weld compound. Then thread in a screw with an O ring and some Loctite..then I'll test it :). This is the lowest point so I will have 90 % of the water drained from there. My XSPC reservoir is the next item that needs a proper drain but that will be much easier since it's thick Lexan by the looks of it.

That's 2 of 10 problem solved. :)
I honestly wonder why they don't make most rads like this already dude. They should have ports on both sides to make this process a no brainer.
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Old March 16, 2013, 09:35 AM
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Mark best solder on your brass/copper nut to rad or use plug

after time JB weld comes loose
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Old March 16, 2013, 02:03 PM
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I don't weld and dont think soldering would of worked ?

I used the JB weld but I can take it off with allot of elbow grease...stuff is tuff to remove. You think soldering would work ? how so ? only using 1/8" of a whole.
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Old March 16, 2013, 05:48 PM
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If you clean off the paint around the hole and sand it nice and clean/sand the brass fitting. Yes it will work. Assuming you know how to solder I'll leave it at that.
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Old March 16, 2013, 07:23 PM
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You are right . That binding glue is not very good at all. Took out my flux, sanded the area and used plumbing solder. Much stronger now . Just finished it with a coat of clear lacquer but not on the fins. Should be good to go. I also used removable thread lock with the copper screw.
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Old March 16, 2013, 09:14 PM
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t-tape is probably enough for that too. +1 for the soldering ;)
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Old March 17, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Here's the finished rad. Took off all the surrounding paint and went old retro with a 2 coats of lacquer...but did not touch the fins at all.

Could of made the solder prettier but wanted a good glob and it to sink properly...better safe then appearances.
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Old March 17, 2013, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark View Post
Here's the finished rad. Took off all the surrounding paint and went old retro with a 2 coats of lacquer...but did not touch the fins at all.

Could of made the solder prettier but wanted a good glob and it to sink properly...better safe then appearances.



practice makes perfect you need a little more heat on the nut, looks cold soldered

best is pre-tin the nut before mounting on rad (have correct tap to clean threads after soldering on rad)

then same with rad hole area, if using propane torch

have rad in a metal bucket of water covering to rad tank joint (verticle)

so not to melt its joint

now you can sleep at night

note: with propane torch will have to re-finish tank after

if use a electric iron, 125watt for best results

Last edited by KaptCrunch; March 17, 2013 at 09:16 AM.
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Old March 17, 2013, 09:21 AM
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That sure does look like a cold soldered... Sounds like KaptCrunch has done this before
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Old March 17, 2013, 10:15 AM
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i'd use this to bleed air out, add clear hose to rez (at highest point of loop) an snap open/close with pump running till steady flow
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