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Old February 27, 2013, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper2794
As long as you know what you're doing, it would make more sense to get the reservoir separate right? I don't care to "play it safe", I'll be reading up to make sure I do everything right.
Actually if there is any chance you may wish to use the res connected directly to the pump your better to go with the kit that comes with the pump top and stand. You can purchase a seperate res bottom cap for $10 if you wish to go with the res fittings setup insted. You can't buy the parts for the pump top seperately.

Most backplates have more screws than just the 4 GPU heatsink screws The one on my 6970 has about 10 that are spaced across the cards lenght. The backplate is harder and thicker than the PCB so it's giving it support from bending or warping from the weight of the block.

Rads will either list the fin count/inch or say low density or high density
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Old March 5, 2013, 04:28 AM
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Can you guys recommend me radiators and pumps? I have FrozenCPU just a few miles away from me. Probably should buy from there, unless there's a real nice one I like from somewhere else.

I don't know what kind of a radiator or a pump to get. I'm gonna be getting a triple 120mm for the top of the Phantom 630, and a dual 140 for the bottom.

I would prefer a pump that looks nice. Plan on having a nice long reservoir, no type of drive bay reservoirs or anything.

I also don't know how to pick tubing. I want to go with clear tubing that will show off my pastel blue coolant real nice. What do you guys recommend? I plan on using these fittings: Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBCPF-CC1) - FrozenCPU.com

Also, are there are nice clear waterblocks for the 680 that shows the liquid?

Last edited by Reaper2794; March 5, 2013 at 04:40 AM.
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Old March 14, 2013, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masteroderus View Post
Corrosion inhibitor will work.

Dazmode Protector

Electrolysis uses direct current to drive non spontaneous reacions (almost verbatim from the link). Are you putting a live wire in your cooling loop? Does copper and aluminum need electricity to react?

The answers are no. Copper and aluminum will spontaneously react when both metals are in the same solution. One of them dissolves (very slightly) and the other one gets deposits of the other metal on its surface.

The corrosion inhibitor is (most likely) some other more reactive metal in solution that inhibits the copper-aluminum reaction.

Think of it as a sacrificial anode.

Nails, for example, do not form iron oxide when coated with zinc.

The problem with aluminum is that it is a GREAT sacrificial anode. Thus the additive is needed or you WILL have problems with a copper/aluminum loop.

BTW anyone have any pictures of a loop where this has happened? I'm curious.
Best post so far.

You could use a dielectic fitting somewhere in a loop and wire it to a metal less noble than aluminum like magnesium. This is how we protect our hotwater tanks from corroding too fast. It's called a sacrificial anode. I'm not sure how this would be wired up for a closed loop it's not something I've run into. All I know is has to be grounded some how to disapate the the electricity built up naturally by flowing liquids or gases.
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Old March 14, 2013, 07:25 AM
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Why would you use 1/4 ID and 3/8 OD tube and fittings?
The tube will be hard to find and so will the fittings. The wall of the tube will be so thin that it will collapse easily.
You'll want to find a clear tube that has a blueish ting to it as apposed to a yellowish one like Master Clear has. Can't go wrong with Primo Chill if you can get it.
I would step up the fitting and tube size to 3/8/ID x 1/2OD or 3/8ID x 5/8OD. The thicker wall will allow for a tighter bend without collapsing. The large ID will have a less restrictive flow.
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Old March 14, 2013, 07:30 AM
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Oh I just wanted to show the type, not that size, and I'm actually gonna go with the Carbon Black not the Matte Black. I contacted Bitspower just fine, the shipping is fast apparently according to them.

I wanna use the XSPC Raystorm - XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel (Sockets LGA 1155 / 1156 / 1366 / 2011) - FrozenCPU.com

Which uses 1/2 x 3/4 so I would need 1/2 x 3/4 tubing and 1/2 x 3/4 fittings right?
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Old March 14, 2013, 10:24 AM
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That block has G1/4 threads and can use any size of fitting that has a G1/4 thread.
G1/4 is the standard size but there are others not commonly used.
Most pumps have barb fittings on their stock tops. D'5's have 1/2 and the DDC's have 3/8.
Most aftermarket pump tops have the G1/4 thread so you can pick any fitting size required. Most people change the pump top for better performance and to have the G1/4 thread.
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