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Old February 20, 2008, 04:26 PM
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Default TEC and waterblock.....

Hey all, chilled CPU cooling....Quick question:

I have a Ultra Chilltec lying around now, doing nothing. I have no experience with using a TEC with a watercooling loop. Should I try it? Do I risk any condensation?

Essentially I have a loop with 2 RADs, one after the CPU/Chipset and one after the GPU. One 120.2 and one MCR220. What do you guys think?
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Old February 20, 2008, 06:10 PM
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you forgot to tell em your basic idea currently is to slap a gob of TIM on there and secure the wb with longer mounting rods...give them a better idea of what you're thinking of. I'm curious to hear what the more experienced have to say about this! :D
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Old February 20, 2008, 06:41 PM
NoL NoL is offline
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Okay, pelts movement ability needs to exceed heat output of proc greatly first off. No small TEC's will work, will be counter productive. You must have a cold plate, and a pressure clamp as well, tec's want about 400 PSI to maximize efficiency. Then that goes on CPU, properly setup and tuned in (not just run at max volts like many do) you can easily have subzero efficiency.
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Old February 20, 2008, 07:11 PM
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Looks like an interesting venture, but I may give it a try....I do have a spare Apogee GT lying around...
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The Vortex H20

Coolermaster ATCS 840 w Window panel
MSI Z77A-GD65
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHZ 1.28v
Galaxy GTX 680 @ 1241MHZ
8GB Mushkin Blackline 1600MHZ 9-9-9-24 1.5v
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OCZ Z-Series GOLD 850W
2 x 128GB Corsair Force GT SATA3 SSD RAID0 :)
Acheiva Shimian Q270 Lite 2560x1440

Benq W500 Pojector.

Watercooling:
EK Supreme HF, EK FC GTX 680 Block, MCR320+Gelid Silent 12 Push/Pull, DD Pump, EK Multioption 100ml Res, EK Coolstream XT 220 RAD Gelid Wings Push/Pull.
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Old February 20, 2008, 09:44 PM
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The GT isn't bowed, is it? I'm pretty sure that you don't want a bowed base on a TEC. And you'd need some sort of cold plate underneath, too, for it to work properly.
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Old February 20, 2008, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoL View Post
properly setup and tuned in (not just run at max volts like many do) you can easily have subzero efficiency.
Can you elaborate on this?
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Old February 21, 2008, 04:47 AM
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No, That Apogee isnt bowed, the one in my system right now is, but I have a spare un-bowed one sitting here.
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The Vortex H20

Coolermaster ATCS 840 w Window panel
MSI Z77A-GD65
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHZ 1.28v
Galaxy GTX 680 @ 1241MHZ
8GB Mushkin Blackline 1600MHZ 9-9-9-24 1.5v
Asus Xonar Essence STX
OCZ Z-Series GOLD 850W
2 x 128GB Corsair Force GT SATA3 SSD RAID0 :)
Acheiva Shimian Q270 Lite 2560x1440

Benq W500 Pojector.

Watercooling:
EK Supreme HF, EK FC GTX 680 Block, MCR320+Gelid Silent 12 Push/Pull, DD Pump, EK Multioption 100ml Res, EK Coolstream XT 220 RAD Gelid Wings Push/Pull.
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Old February 21, 2008, 10:10 AM
NoL NoL is offline
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Running at maximum voltage will result in maximum movement for that TEC, however if that wattage of movement exceeds the cooling you actually need, you can lower the voltage to gain greater efficiency ;)
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Old February 26, 2008, 05:25 PM
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OK, imagine if you will, an 80 watt pelt sandwiched between two apogee gt's.
Yes there is a cold plate in there.

Mounting Pressure would be approx 150 lbs. sq inch

The hot side is cooled with water, the nice thing is you can drop the temp of the water to near zero way more easily than you could with air. Imagine an insulated res( cooler)
with a couple of 2 litre pop bottles frozen, dropped into the cooler, like hevy gaming in summer, dropping the temps of the hot side way down
Put a hoody on the rad and all of a sudden your efficiency sky rockets

The cold side apogee gt would be implemented into your water cooling loop,
a totally separate loop.

There would likely be some condensation proofing needed, but nothing crazy as
I figure I'll be lucky to achieve anywhere near sub-zero temps. In fact , it will just be like having more water in the loop, like maybe 1 gallon. so temps are just going to take a long time to go up or down. Actual delta will be nominal. If air circulation in the case is good you might not even need condensation proofing.
But that's a big if!

I reckon, 3-5 degrees below ambient, water temps.
No, not setting the world on fire, but phase change is just too much of a worry.
This is easy and if done right could afford some extra!
At least if the pelt blows up, i still have water cooling, just not enhanced watercooling!
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