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Old February 17, 2008, 01:02 AM
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Default Water Cooling Attempt

Ok so heres the parts I have... now I got this for a good deal so I'm gonna make it work with what I have but I want some expert opinions on the gear and what it will take to make this work well.

Pump: Swiftech MCP350 [http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ture=Swiftech]

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT
[http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ture=Swiftech]

RAD: HW Labs Black Ice GT Stealth240
[http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...rdware%20Labs]

Now the rad comes with 1/2" metal barbs which is perfect but the block does not so the questions to follow:

1) I want to use 7/16" ID (5/9 OD); will this fit over 1/2" barbs? I hear people warm up the tube and force it over (no big deal)

2) Is this pump upgradeable to put the Petra top onto it? Or is this pump plenty for most usage?

3) What type of fans should I use with this rad? I heard high cfm fans work best?

4) Does anyone know if there are are quick disconnect fittings that will work without losing flow?

5) Can you use compression fittings for 1/2" with 7/16"?

6) What does something like D-TEK Customs 1/2IN G1/4 refer to with the G1/4?

7) Would upgrading the rad and cpu block barbs to those stated ^ work well with the cpu block and rad?
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Old February 17, 2008, 07:36 AM
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1) never done it, but I've heard of people doing it- probably wouldn't even need compression fittings
2) I wouldn't worry too much about petra tops- they are available for these pumps and they do improve flow and I think they might make it a little quieter, but not neccessary to order another $25-30 part if you're on a budget.
3)Yeah- high CFM fans make those rads really rip. I use the 25mm thick panaflos- not just high CFM, but alot of 'torque' or pushing power against denser fin resistance
4)not sure what you mean, but I doubt it.
5)yes
6)G1/4 is the thread- don't worry about it.
7)upgrading the rad barbs? i though you wanted the 1/2" barbs that were on the rad
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Old February 17, 2008, 08:12 AM
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1) Yeah, soak the end in hot water, and it'll slide over with a little effort. Definitely use metal barbs, though.

2) Petra's top works fine, although the improvements on the MCP350 aren't anywhere as pronounced as they are on the MCP355.

3) According to HWL, the Stealth is optimized for lower speed fans, while the Extreme is the one that needs the more powerful fans. The Stealth's fins are dense, but they're also much thinner, and the whole rad is quite thin, which should let you get away with weaker fans.

4) Dunno. You're almost guaranteed to give up a little bit of flow by using them, but I wouldn't expect it to amount to very much at lower flow-rates.

5) Technically, you can use compression fittings, but they have a tendency to pinch tubing that's not the exact right size.

6) If it's referring to a barb, it'll be designed for 1/2" tubing, with G1/4 threads. Pretty standard stuff.

7) Wouldn't bother with compression fittings, unless you're after the appearance. They usually give up 0.5-1 mm of internal diameter, and don't necessarily seal any better. And that's if the tubing is the proper size.
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Old February 17, 2008, 08:23 AM
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First and foremost you have a major issue here: the pump has 3/8 barbs that cannot be changed. Unless you change the top for a Petra (http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...=Petra%27sTech) and add 1/2 barbs. Now this will cost you more than a MCP655.

1. Yes, done it many times. Simply drop the end of the tube in hot (almost boiling) water for 10 seconds before inserting it on the barb.
2. Yes, but see comment above regarding barb size.
3. Same comment as Babr.
4. Never seen a quick-disconnect fitting made for water-cooling parts. The ones that I have seen (for other applications) have too much restriction.
5. Probably, depends on the tube wall thickness though. In doubt, use worm-gear clamps.
6. G1/4 is the thread size, shape and pattern. Here's a great definition: Barb Sizes Explained - Coolercases UK - Forums
7. Definitely go for metal barbs everywhere. I used to work with the Swiftech plastic barbs, until one broke inside the rad hole. It took an "easy-out" to remove the broken thread section from the rad hole.

Again, double-check those barbs on the pump, and consider your options. FYI, I have used 3/8 tubing on both Quads I own - works just as well as 1/2 tubing.
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Old February 17, 2008, 10:40 AM
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1) Alright looks like I'll switch out to the petra top to allow for proper barbs as the ones on this pump are stuck and do not come out.

2) Would these fans do good?
[http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=Scythe]
or
[http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=Scythe]

3) Pick a couple sets of these [http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...Tek%20Customs] up for the rad and top. I know the petra comes with them but I want to achieve as much flow as possible and would rather use high flow barbs.

4) Bowed the Apogee GT already.. pretty easy just stuck both parts in the freezer which made the o-ring "sticky" when it came in touch with the warm air. Is a gap normal between the copper plate and the black housing? I blew air through it and didn't hear any leaks, but I guess when I leak test I'll know.

5) This is what I was referring to with the quick disconnect [http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ture=Koolance] .. and curious how it would impede flow.

6) Tubing will be this [http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...=Danger%20Den]
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Old February 17, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Is a gap normal between the copper plate and the black housing? I blew air through it and didn't hear any leaks, but I guess when I leak test I'll know.
The gap is normal... without it, the o-ring wouldn't be doing much other than filling a hole... :)

Sounds like you had a lot easier job bowing your GT than I did. I'm sure I spent at least 2 hours getting that sucker in there!!!! :)

Quote:
This is what I was referring to with the quick disconnect [http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ture=Koolance] .. and curious how it would impede flow.
Anything that fits inside the tube is going to impede flow to a certain extent.
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Old February 17, 2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sswilson View Post
The gap is normal... without it, the o-ring wouldn't be doing much other than filling a hole... :)

Sounds like you had a lot easier job bowing your GT than I did. I'm sure I spent at least 2 hours getting that sucker in there!!!! :)



Anything that fits inside the tube is going to impede flow to a certain extent.
As suggested toss the top of the block and o-ring into a freezer and it takes all of 2 minutes :) I struggled as the rest of you but wasn't gonna stress over it being that like.

Yah I understand anything in the loop will slow down flow but if thats the only thing then I can't see it making that big of a difference :)
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Old February 17, 2008, 11:27 AM
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Well, that disconnect is 3/8" in size, which basically makes it useless to you. PPC offers 1/2" pieces (no expansion slot backplate), but you have to buy them individually, male and female, so you're looking at almost $40 for two lines (not included S&H). Personally, I'd root around in the plumbing aisle before I went that route.

Those Slipstream fans are meant for case duty, not heatsink/rad duty Good airflow, poor static pressure. On the other hand, I've seen plenty of tests that show the S-Flex's to be top-notch for heatsink/rad duty (and I can vouch for them personally).
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Old February 17, 2008, 11:33 AM
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Sorry- I thought you had said you had the extreme- yeah, the stealths don't need as much fan force to get optimal cooling, although they don't extract as much heat.
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Old February 17, 2008, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babrbarossa View Post
Sorry- I thought you had said you had the extreme- yeah, the stealths don't need as much fan force to get optimal cooling, although they don't extract as much heat.
Yah that seems to be the general norm so I'm just gonna make do with this until I can upgrade to a better rad.

I wonder how the NF-P12s would work for this rad.

Mind you I have a couple of those S-Flex in my case and with the rad sitting on top of my case I can feel air flow through the mesh on the case and through the rad so I think in a push/pull situation I could probably get enough air flow without any hinderance.
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