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Old June 9, 2011, 05:01 AM
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Default The cause of the GUM in our loops

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Originally Posted by mataribot View Post
Not all anticorrosives act like a biocide; most non toxic antifreeze does not. Any mixed coolant can be thought as a solution. Todays water cooling loops do a great job seperating solutions. Especially any injector plate blocks. The more stress your system and loop, the faster the coolant will seperate. Anticorrosive will end up being a gooey mass in your blocks. If you clean your gear well, distilled water will last much longer, but does need at least one tear down per year.
Interesting founding, and it deserve a new tread to separate it from the EK one, so you are saying that not only the gum form on the small passage of the CPU block, but the nozzle of this CPU block is also the cause of a separation, make sense, it foam in the CPU block, and in contact with the Oxygen in the loop will create all kind of chemical reaction.
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Old June 9, 2011, 08:56 AM
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The quoted text is an opinion, and not a proven fact as far as I can find yet.
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Old June 9, 2011, 09:07 AM
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The quoted text is an opinion, and not a proven fact as far as I can find yet.

Of course, and it's why I would like to talk more about it, I like to use anti-corrosive stuff. So I want to make sure I use the good one, and I use it properly too. So the topic is not in using anti-corrosive or not, but on how to use them, and what problem they can create, because when we know the problem ( if problem ) we can find a solution.

The only facts I have its many peoples complain that anti-corrosive is gumming the loop. So is it true , what is the cause and what we can do to avoid it.
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Old June 9, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Sugarj is correct that statement is just from my experience. As Codeman stated, the statement is not 100% correct, however it is in the "ball park" so to speak. You will be hard pressed to find a single valid case of buildup using distilled + silver that can't be link to poor cleaning (oxidation, plasticizer, and algae do not count). Dyes have been blamed for gunk buildup, however I disagree with that. Dyes stain period. Frequent maintence (~ every 2 months) helps prevent buildup with the use of common additives. Some systems may need more maintence while others may go a year or longer. I have no issue playing the guessing game when to tear down my loop, and that is exactly what I get when using a anticorrosive.

Using plain old distilled water is always going to be a risk, as the whole EK drama has proven. In the correct environment, I believe that risk to be small.
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Old June 9, 2011, 01:04 PM
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....Dyes have been blamed for gunk buildup, however I disagree with that. Dyes stain period. ...

Using plain old distilled water is always going to be a risk, as the whole EK drama has proven. In the correct environment, I believe that risk to be small.
I've had Primochill Dye separate out and clog up a block. That's why I won't use add-in dyes any more, and will only used premixed coolants if I want a colored loop.

Aha, I found the picture:


Anyone who thinks that watercooling is a set it and forget it option is in for a big surprise. Any loop should be drained and cleaned at least every 6 months, and more often if you are using a new coolant / additive combo until you know what it does. And when I say cleaned, I mean opening up and inspecting the blocks, too.
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Old June 9, 2011, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SugarJ View Post
... And when I say cleaned, I mean opening up and inspecting the blocks, too.
talking of block , do someone know how to keep he o ring in place with EK full motherboard block ( or other one ) yesterday I have to use vaseline to make it hold, the block will be on storage, not sure I will like vaseline in my loop. GPU and CPU are easy , no need , but motherbaord block $%/"/$%
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Old June 9, 2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarJ View Post
I've had Primochill Dye separate out and clog up a block. That's why I won't use add-in dyes any more, and will only used premixed coolants if I want a colored loop.

Aha, I found the picture:


Anyone who thinks that watercooling is a set it and forget it option is in for a big surprise. Any loop should be drained and cleaned at least every 6 months, and more often if you are using a new coolant / additive combo until you know what it does. And when I say cleaned, I mean opening up and inspecting the blocks, too.
Are you sure that the gunk is not dye soaked plasticizer? That is what the picture looks like to me. I have had that in my block even with plain old distilled, just not colored. I never said it should be set and forget, just that plain old distilled and silver will have a longer lifespan. I reconmend at least two complete tear downs per year.
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Old June 9, 2011, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mataribot View Post
Are you sure that the gunk is not dye soaked plasticizer? That is what the picture looks like to me. I have had that in my block even with plain old distilled, just not colored. I never said it should be set and forget, just that plain old distilled and silver will have a longer lifespan. I reconmend at least two complete tear downs per year.
Sorry I didn't mean to imply that you said to set and forget, rather that I meant it's what some people expect. And if your loop is properly cleaned before hand, I'll agree that distilled and silver should have a long lifespan.

As for the dye / plasticizer question, that was PC Ice coolant with PC purple dye. Whether there would be plasticizer in there or not, I can't tell you. I flush all my parts (including tubing) with just-boiled water out of the kettle, then again with distilled before installing them. There were also coagulated bits of dye floating around in my res when I drained it.
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Old June 9, 2011, 01:53 PM
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...... just that plain old distilled and silver will have a longer lifespan. I reconmend at least two complete tear downs per year.
and what if I run distillated water ( pure one not the crap they sell in grosery store) and I change it every month, do I still need to tear down the loop twice a year, and why
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Old June 9, 2011, 02:04 PM
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You still need to tear down your loop every once in a while just for good measure, even with regular monthly changes (which IMO, is overkill...).

Here's a few reasons why:
- you can't realistically clean all parts perfectly when putting together your loop, nor make sure that particles of dirt or residue(s) left over from manufacturing won't work their way loose after a while
- the longer your distilled water remains in the loop, the more conductive it becomes (partly to do with the above point)
- particulates from your PVC tubing may very slowly build up in restrictive blocks

What I think I would recommend personally (and might be beating a dead horse here) is to run a very light mixture of anti-corrosive & biocide to be on the safe side, as well as doing as thorough a job as possible cleaning everything before installation. Also, in my opinion just check your reservoir every once in a while to check for any noticeable problems. As far as changing out water every month... that gets a bit ridiculous. For me, I'm not in any huge rush to empty my loop but I tend to upgrade a component or two within a year's timespan anyhow which means at least taking out a couple blocks to check.

Realistically - going the safe route with the anti-corrosive in a light mixture should give you enough protection for "just in case" scenarios, as well as doing a thorough cleaning and avoiding tubing that is known to flake off a bit of plasticiser should allow you to leave your loop set up for a good while. Nothing is more annoying than having to constantly keep an eye on your loop to the point of tear down but... even air cooled systems NEED to be cleaned out properly every few months from all the dust. I would definitely recommend that regardless; and maybe while you're at the dust clean out if you have your loop setup to easily drain, then go for it as well.

p.s - I'd just like to add that you should familiarise yourself with your system. For example, take your maximum temperatures when you load up your system for a good 20-30 minutes (run Prime95, plus something like Furmark... or play a stressful game for an hour) and keep open something like HWmonitor to record your max temps. Set yourself an alarm, about 5 degrees higher or so than that to go off if it reaches those temperatures. You now have a fairly accurate judge of your loop condition. If one of your blocks it clogged up, or your rad is full of dog hair and dust etc. you'll eventually set off your alarm and let you know when your loops performance has dropped off. Good indicator rather than just tearing your loop apart all the time "just because"

Last edited by codeman; June 9, 2011 at 02:11 PM.
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