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-   -   Mount and bleed a top mounted radiator in HAF X case (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/water-cooling/36199-mount-bleed-top-mounted-radiator-haf-x-case.html)

kkkwj September 13, 2010 05:22 PM

Mount and bleed a top mounted radiator in HAF X case
I see that it is possible to mount rads flat/horizontally in the top of the new cases, below the default fans that come in the top of new cases such as the HAF 932, or HAF X.

But in these setups, how can you ensure that air bubbles don't collect in the rad, since it is the highest point in the case, well above any reservoirs in the 5.25 bays, or lower down in the case? I'd really like to mount a rad up there in a HAF X case, but not until I am convinced that air won't collect up there in the rad...

Maybe someone has done this before and can comment on how they solved the problem? (The only solution I can think of is to COMPLETELY fill the whole WC system with fluids, with no air spaces in reservoirs (or waterblocks, or tubes, etc) that might accidently crawl up a tube or be pushed by the pump up into the rad. Thanks

dustin1706 September 13, 2010 05:46 PM

What pump are you running? With my 655 I just cranked it up to 5 and shook the case a little. Then let it run for a full day on the 5 setting before dropping it back down to 2. The velocity of the fluid was really enough on it's own to get the air out.

If you want to make sure the air is out, then get the system going and tip the pc on its side. You may have to temporarily re orientate your reservoir to keep the pump from sucking air.

kkkwj September 13, 2010 06:24 PM

I think I'm mostly worried about air from a reservoir running up a tube when the pump is NOT running. As I type this, it occurs to me that if the res input port is always below the res water level, then there is no chance of res air getting into the res intake line. (Of course there's no chance of air getting into the res->pump line, or downstream of that, when the pump is running, as long as the res level is above the res output port.)

So maybe my issue can be solved by considering reservoir design/mounting options, to ensure that I use a reservoir whose input port can always be below the res water level. If I can guarantee that (eg, don't use any waterfall res designs that would allow air into the res input port), then I could be sure that the top mounted rad would have no air bubbles after the initial bleeding process.

Does this analysis seem reasonable to you? Have I missed anything?

SugarJ September 13, 2010 07:38 PM

Stay away from waterfall reservoirs. And simply fill the loop and res full and tip the case on it's side with the pump running. The air will come out. Almost all rad mounts have this issue unless they are mounted with the fittings at the very top, at least in my experience.

dustin1706 September 13, 2010 07:52 PM

You are basically correct kkkwj. All reservoirs need to have their output below the water level (obviously), and it's always best to have your res input below the water level also, instead of at the top of the reservoir to prevent agitation that can cause air bubbles. So as long as you don't let your fluid level drop below the output port you can't get any air in the system.

The reason all of the water doesn't just run out of the top mount rad is because both ports of the rad eventually go to the reservoir. This means that the hydrostatic pressure is equal on both rad ports, thus eliminating the problem.

The only other way for air to get into your system is by having a small leak in a low pressure high velocity part of the loop (unlikely) or a small hole near the top of the loop which will draw air while the system is off.

kkkwj September 13, 2010 08:02 PM

Thanks very much for the confirmations. I can now go forward without doubts... :-)

kkkwj September 15, 2010 01:35 PM

Now my question is about how to mount the radiator. I have a HAF X EATX case with two huge fans on top, and what looks like unthreaded mounting holes for something below the big default fans. Spacing on the four holes is 10.5cm x 22cm. Do you think these holes will match up with something like a Swifttech MCR220-QP dual 120mm fan radiator? And how can I mount the radiator--it seems to only have 8 holes to mount the two fans, but no extra holes for mounting the rad to the case?

sswilson September 15, 2010 01:44 PM

Are you using 1 set of fans or two for push/pull?

Either way, you'll use the mounting holes on the rad. If there are fans on the side of the rad you're mounting, you'll need long screws with the head on the outside case then threaded though the fan and then into the rad, if there are no fans, you'll need short ones with the head outside of the case, mounting directly to the rad on the other side.

edit: Measure your screws carefully to ensure that they won't travel too far beyond the rad mounting holes and into the rad fins.

kkkwj September 15, 2010 02:05 PM

Thanks. The layout from the top down is grill, existing 200mm case fan, metal plate, sunken (toward the inside of the case, I see) mounting holes, then my rad (I guess), then fans on the inside side of the rad if I want to use them. I think I see now that my sequence must be, remove grill, remove 200mm fans, use short screws to mount the rad (the screw heads must not rise above the sunken mount dimples, then remount the top fans, remount the grill. The top fans look like they pull air through the rad and out of the case. Wow, I will be impressed if all these things line up (and will report back here, of course).

Do I need to worry about sealing the gaps between the rad edges and the mounting plate, and the gap between the mounting plate and the fans? (I think the fans already fit pretty close to the mounting plate). In other words, should I worry about the fans sucking air in between the fan and the rad when the fans are 200m and the rad is 120mm? If the air resistance through the rad is not high (and its not supposed to be, I think, for low flow rads), then a small rad-plate-fan gap won't be a big thing, right?

CanadianReaper7 September 15, 2010 11:48 PM

Hey guys, first post on HWC ;o

I have the HAF X, and I just ordered my loop from Daz including a TFC Xchanger 360.
I'm at work currently or I'd post a pic of what I'm talking about.

To answer your first question: make sure your res filling top is closed and full and tip the case while it's running.

For mounting the rad:

Remove the 200mm stock fan from the top, my screws were insanely hard to get off and i stripped 2 and had to take them off with pliers.

The Xchanger came with 3 lengths of black screws. The way you mount the rad is by putting the longest screws (might be 30mm?) through the top of your 120x25mm fan, with the silicon pad underneath, into the two crossbar mountings in the HAF X. You can't secure them with the short screws unless you aren't mounting x3 120x25mm fans on top of the case, with the rad inside the case.

The problem here as you mentioned is the 3-5mm rise due to the weird nature of the mounting crossbar with indented holes. I'm thinking of cutting the silicon pad just at that point, because then the fan sits flush with these.

Either way I was only fitting the rad with 1 fan for initial setup and measuring my tube lengths. I will 100% post pics when I get everything finished! Also ordered a sleeving kit from MDPC ;o. So sexy.

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