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  #31 (permalink)  
Old December 8, 2007, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 View Post
Well, I just can't decide To get watercooling or not...

I have an idea though, but I'm not sure if its feasible or not.
Is it possible to mount a fan to the rear of my case and then attach that fan to the radiator without using a Radbox?

Something like this, excuse my poor drawing:



The fan attached to the case would push into the rad and the fan up top would pull. I would drill 2 holes beneath the case fan for the barbs to pass through into the case.

I have measured and it does seem feasible, but I'm not sure how I'd mount it all (type of screws and what not), and if having the fans in that kind of configuration would effect performance. I could always put 2 fans on the back just to make it look even.

I was also thinking, the bottom fan could be 38mm and the top 25mm, and try sticking the top one on the "front" side, but then there would only be 13mm in front of it from the case.

The main reason behind all this is because even with the radbox, I don't think my DVI-VGA adapter + VGA cable would fit anymore so I couldn't have my dual-monitor setup, unless again I do a 3-fan setup or a funky 2-fan.
Of course you can attach a rad to a case using fan, all you need are longer screws - but be careful of the screw length, not to puncture the rad.

But using the radbox makes everything so much easier. And I think you can clear the dvi ports for your dual setup.
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Old December 8, 2007, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Cptn Vortex View Post
Not sure about the pump noise, my MCP655 is nice a quiet. I have my OC down a little cause it's still a new board, but I know this CPU will do 3.2 easy, just got to work on the voltage.
So you have a case fan, radbox, fan, rad? How is the radres anyways? Any difficulty bleeding the system? Very nice setup BTW.

And for the pump, Swiftech says the MCP355 is louder than the MCP655 and MCP350.

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Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
Of course you can attach a rad to a case using fan, all you need are longer screws - but be careful of the screw length, not to puncture the rad.
But using the radbox makes everything so much easier. And I think you can clear the dvi ports for your dual setup.
Well I guess I could get one and try both ways. I could still use the radbox for that design too and just put both the fans on the back of the rad. Another reason for it, now that I think about it, was also to keep the loop above all my expansion slots so I could change my video card and stuff easily. It would also use less tubing. If you look at this picture: Picasa Web Albums - JD - Antec 900 I was going to stick the pump in the 2nd hard drive cage (just above my top hard drive) and it would get some nice cool air to keep itself cool.

Last edited by JD; December 8, 2007 at 10:44 AM.
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Old December 8, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 View Post
So you have a case fan, radbox, fan, rad? How is the radres anyways? Any difficulty bleeding the system? Very nice setup BTW.

And for the pump, Swiftech says the MCP355 is louder than the MCP655 and MCP350.
The ResRAD works great. It takes longer to get the bubbles out than the MicroRES I had before, but basically I just ran the pump for an hour, and left it to sit overnight. I was fine by the morning.

Oh, and it goes a little wierd. The case fan on the back of the case is actually an intake, to bring cool air in to the RAD in the top of my case. It works against the fan on my external RAD, but there is enough space in between that it does not really effect the air there.
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Old December 8, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 View Post
If you look at this picture: Picasa Web Albums - JD - Antec 900 I was going to stick the pump in the 2nd hard drive cage (just above my top hard drive) and it would get some nice cool air to keep itself cool.
hmm no, don't do that. You have to locate the pump as low as possible, to make sure that there is always enough liquid flowing to it. You'll have to find another spot for it.

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Old December 8, 2007, 03:21 PM
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hmm no, don't do that. You have to locate the pump as low as possible, to make sure that there is always enough liquid flowing to it. You'll have to find another spot for it.

John
Well, if I mount the Radres as my beautiful drawing depicts, that would actually be the lowest part of the loop. Probably about an inch lower than the barbs on the Radres. So wouldn't it work okay?

If I mount the Radres the "normal" way, then yes I know the pump couldn't be there.
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Old December 8, 2007, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 View Post
Well, if I mount the Radres as my beautiful drawing depicts, that would actually be the lowest part of the loop. Probably about an inch lower than the barbs on the Radres. So wouldn't it work okay?

If I mount the Radres the "normal" way, then yes I know the pump couldn't be there.
Sorry about that, forgot about the radres orientation. As long as the pump is lower than the barbs, that's all you need.
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Old December 9, 2007, 10:03 AM
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Another quick question:

I've heard (on here I think) that the plastic Swiftech barbs are not that great. So can I use metal barbs on the Apogee GT and the Radres? Specifically the D-TEK Customs 3/8IN G1/4 Chrome High Flow Barbs. I assume I can't do anything about the pump (MCP350) unless I got Petra's top, which I don't plan to just yet.
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Old December 9, 2007, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 View Post
Another quick question:

I've heard (on here I think) that the plastic Swiftech barbs are not that great. So can I use metal barbs on the Apogee GT and the Radres? Specifically the D-TEK Customs 3/8IN G1/4 Chrome High Flow Barbs. I assume I can't do anything about the pump (MCP350) unless I got Petra's top, which I don't plan to just yet.
Yup I use the 1/2" chrome barbs on my Apogee.


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  #39 (permalink)  
Old December 9, 2007, 05:00 PM
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Okay, here's my final list:As for hose clamps, I'll probably use zipties and if that doesn't work out, Home Depot is just down the street so I could get metal clamps (whatever they're called). Apparently the 3/8" ID ones NCIX sells don't fit 5/8" OD tubing all that well.

Is distilled water fine? I see my grocery store sells like a 4L jug for a few dollars.

Anything else I'm missing or something I should get instead?

And of course, thanks to all who've helped over the past month or so.
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Old December 9, 2007, 06:15 PM
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You're good to go! As for your questions:

zipties (also called tye-wraps) work just fine.
the Swiftech 3/8" clamps do not work on the 5/8" OD tubing. It has to be the Swiftech tubing.
metal clamps are called worm gear clamps.
distilled water is all you need. just add the water additive with the correct ratio.

One comment regarding the metal barbs: do not overtorque them, since the threads on the Apogee are plastic. You don't want to strip them.

John
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