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Old March 10, 2010, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Eldonko View Post
Ah good point, Ill have to try and clean the gunk outta my pump somehow..
ISO 99 for the pump.

Jack, I've found anything with dyes and colouring in them breaks down and creates nasty deposits.

The only reason I don't go for Ethelene Glycol is the more stuff you put in your loop the more you take away from the Thermal Conductance of the medium.

ST
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Old March 10, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Soultribunal View Post
The only reason I don't go for Ethelene Glycol is the more stuff you put in your loop the more you take away from the Thermal Conductance of the medium.
Mind you the last studies I saw were from a while ago but IIRC the differences are barely measurable. Sure if you're going for maximum OC then that degree (maybe two) might mean something but for the bulk of us that's getting a bit too buried in the details. If you choose not to use glycol for what ever reason then that's fine, it's your system, but that particular argument doesn't hold much water with me.
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Old March 14, 2010, 07:18 PM
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Nice to see another view point on the glycol. Some other sites i've visited are fesser crazy and I can understand if people want different colors etc but cost doesn't justify the means. Like I mentoined before; glycol is industry standard on the commercial side of cooling seems to me it would work just fine at home :)

Thanks Biff.
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Old March 16, 2010, 11:54 AM
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I'm a little late to the game, but thought I'd share...

You have to realize that just cause it "looks" ok, and temps are good, doesn't mean you don't have gnalry shit growing in your rads/blocks/tubes. By the time you see gunk, there's usually gunk everywhere in the loop.

I've run a variety of setups, but generally stick to good ol' distilled water w/ some PT or silver coils. I have also setup my loops so they are a joke to bleed, which is probably the most important part of any WC setup.

I can bleed and refill my system, plus clean the rads/fans, in about 15 minutes... and I do it about once a month. Overkill? Sure... but rig is always pretty and running at capacity :)
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Old March 16, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Liu Kang View Post
I'm a little late to the game, but thought I'd share...

You have to realize that just cause it "looks" ok, and temps are good, doesn't mean you don't have gnalry shit growing in your rads/blocks/tubes. By the time you see gunk, there's usually gunk everywhere in the loop.

I've run a variety of setups, but generally stick to good ol' distilled water w/ some PT or silver coils. I have also setup my loops so they are a joke to bleed, which is probably the most important part of any WC setup.

I can bleed and refill my system, plus clean the rads/fans, in about 15 minutes... and I do it about once a month. Overkill? Sure... but rig is always pretty and running at capacity :)
15 minutes eh? Im definitly doing mine so its that easy
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Old March 16, 2010, 12:22 PM
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15 minutes eh? Im definitly doing mine so its that easy
Gravity is your friend... and don't get me wrong, it's not bled dry in 15 minutes, but by setting up my rads horizontally and piping a "drain" from my reservoir, I can drain ~80-90% of the water from my rig by simply opening a valve.

When you set up your rig to bleed easily, maintenance becomes a habit instead of a f*cking chore.
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Old March 16, 2010, 12:58 PM
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Care to share some pics of you setups? I've always thought of doing that... just never did.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old March 16, 2010, 01:31 PM
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I don't have many pics, probably cause I don't own a camera... I'll see if I can dig some up. I've also only WC'd Mountain Mods cases, which can generally accomodate multiple rads in vertical and horizontal positions and make setups a bit trickier to bleed.

My rule of thumb is based on pretty simple logic: the reservoir and rad(s) hold the most water, so they should be setup in a way that allows them to be drained quickly and easily. The blocks don't hold much water, and majority of water in the tubing will flow back into the res/rads during bleeding.

Traditional computer cases will force you to place a rad at the top of the case and/or vertically inside the case. Top mounted rads are a joke to bleed, but if you have a rad setup vertically, you should place the inlet/outlet at the bottom so that the water can exit the rad easily. Assuming your valve/t-line/whatever is below the rads, reservoir and pump, gravity will drain the majority of water from your loop.

I hope that makes sense... tough to describe without pics.
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