Go Back   Hardware Canucks > CASES & COOLING > Water Cooling

    
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 04:25 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 3,344
Default

+1 to what both these users said.. the mcp655 is a pretty powerful pump at stock, the x-top only adds a little bit more water flow, but honestly.. the 655-b w/speed control, set it to number 5, and you got enough flow going..

10 or 20ft is plenty, But that's a good deal on 35ft of tubing, I would personally go for Primochill tubing, although Feser fares pretty good too, directcanada has a 10ft roll for roughly $16.50, so 20 ft would be around $33-34, and you're getting 25ft for $35, paying a dollar more for 5ft I think is worth it..

One bottle of feser fluid is more than enough, don't need the feser aqua like the rest suggested.. And since you're on a budget, I also would suggest the Swiftech MCR320 (Sorry Daz.. he's on budget).. off course Feser rads are much superior quality, but remember you also need fans to go with it.. and the triple swiftech rad actually does a pretty descent job really.. and plus a good pair of fans (3 of 6-push/pull) would still be cheaper than the feser rad alone..

Now if you're going to get the water block from Direct canada, then suggest you just get the compression fittings from there also, they are $11 a piece, so you're saving a few dollars, and they are bitspower, I swear by them lol.

Once again, sorry Dazmode, not stealing business, just helping the user out..
__________________
Intel E8400, Biostar TPower i45
G-Skill PC2-8500 4GB, Saphire HD4870 512mb
Cooler Master HAF 932, Enermax Galaxy DXX 1000W
Samsung 931BW 19" LCD, Logitech MX Revolution
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 04:30 PM
enaberif's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Calgahree, AB
Posts: 10,679
Default

3/8 ID can fit on 1/2 barbs snugly
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 04:44 PM
Top Prospect
F@H
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: London
Posts: 219
Default

For fan suggestion, I would go with the Scythe Gentle Typhoons from Directcanada. Good performance and low noise.
__________________
Ivy Bridge 3770K @ 5.0 Ghz
Asus P8Z77 WS
16GB Gskil DDR3-2400
Xfx R9 290X (x2) Sapphire Tri-X 290X 6048x1200/2560x1440 @120Hz| Dell 2709W (left/right) Yamakasi Q270 Catleap 2b 120hz version (center)
OCZ Vertex 3 (x2) Raid 0 480Gb - Windows 8.1 PRO (windows 7 mockup)
Corsair Obsidian 800D | Seasonic X-1250
HeatKiller 3.0 | EK R9 290x WB (x3) | TFC Exchanger Quad Rad |Thermochill PA120.3 rad|TFC Dual rad Scythe Gentle Typhoon (x9) |Swiftech MCP655 (x2) | EK drive bay Res.
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 05:42 PM
Dazmode's Avatar
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oakville
Posts: 1,700
Default

From my personal experience Miggs, all extra tube I ever bought went to garbage as I'm typically want something else next time are re-do my loop. So 35ft is total waste even if it is free. Save the planet!
__________________
Venom Build: Caselabs SMH10, 3930k, 2x GTX680, MSI BigBangII, 8x Dominators, 2 x D5 , Quad Rad, Adaptec 7805, 4x WD Red, 2x Intel 510, Aquaero 5, 11x GT
Silent Sniper Build: Final Video, XSPC H1 Cube case, Supreme HF, 2xGTX470, GA G1 Sniper, Dominators, 2x Triple rad, Triebwerk Fans, 2x D5, Custom Sleeving
Orange Build: Final Video
HTPC Build: Final Video
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 05:59 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 3,344
Default

That's true too.. I bought 20ft for my first time purchase and all I've used now in 10ft, every time I drain my loop I keep re-using my tubing, I use distilled so the tubes are pretty clean and no die or color of any kind.. I got to re-do my loop in the HAF now, and I'm sure.. I'll end up using some bits and pieces even though I have a full BNIB 10ft of tubing sitting..
__________________
Intel E8400, Biostar TPower i45
G-Skill PC2-8500 4GB, Saphire HD4870 512mb
Cooler Master HAF 932, Enermax Galaxy DXX 1000W
Samsung 931BW 19" LCD, Logitech MX Revolution
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 06:19 PM
Top Prospect
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 111

My System Specs

Default

Thanks a lot for all your replies! Now I have even *more* questions!

Quote:
ontariotl

The things I can suggest is to remove one bottle of Feaser one cooling fluid. You only need one as it will be plenty. You don't need the pure water bottle either. 25' is excessive for tubing, half that will be fine for your build unless you were planning to have the rad external and away from the computer.
Thanks for the fluid tip. I had absolutely no idea how much fluid went into a standard GPU/CPU/RES/RAD cooling loop. I had picked the distilled water because a lot of "how-to" guides specify that you should always flush your new water components (rad, blocks, etc) before putting them in a real loop, to remove possible impurities. I figured I'd just connect everything together with one end in the sink and run some distilled water through. Since I had no idea how much would be needed, I figured more was better than not enough.

I will only get a single bottle of fluid then, but for the cleaning part, am I missing something or can I just use tap water? I was afraid that having some residue in there might interfere with something...

Quote:
ontariotl

Look at directcanada for your 5870 block
Thanks! I didn't think of looking there, and PriceCanada.com (my usual price crawling reference) doesn't seem to index watercooling parts. I'll probably still try order from NCIX and pricematch, since I got enough points for free shipping, but I'll order straight from DirectCanada if the pricematch fails.

Quote:
ontariotl

25' is excessive for tubing, half that will be fine for your build unless you were planning to have the rad external and away from the computer.
Well, of all as I mentionned, I'm sure I'm going to waste some tubing simply because it's my first time. Second, I don't think I can fit the TFC Xchanger triple rad inside my P182 very easily. This led me towards an interesting solution to another problem I had. My computer desk is a gen-X model as shown here:


I didn't put the door and tablet in the left compartment, which allowed me to put my P182 in there. To get enough airflow, I had to put fans in the the desk's two precut holes (supposed to be used for cable management). Not the most elegant solution...

Now, the compartment is wide enough for me to be able to place the rad next to my case. So my plan is to get the tubing out of the back of the case (the P182 already has 2 holes for it), then around into the rad. I'd have the fans blowing air out of the front of the desk. That will easily add about 2 feet of tubing both ways. As an added bonus, it would prevent my furball from crawling in there to reach the sweet Eldorado of chewy cat toys... erm, I mean wires.

As for the CPU block and rad, I'm pretty set on getting the Heatkiller and TFC Xchanger... From all the reviews I've read, these two were pretty much on top as far as performance. Since I'd like to run at 4.2Ghz 24/7 (unless I get unlucky with my cpu ), I want every chance on my side. What I'm unsure of is the EK D5 top... Is it worth getting? I added it because some review sites mention it helps the flow, and it comes with G1/4 so I can screw in standard compression fittings (I'd really like to use comp fittings for everything, since I'm afraid of not securing tubes properly and such).

Quote:
miggs78

Now if you're going to get the water block from Direct canada, then suggest you just get the compression fittings from there also, they are $11 a piece, so you're saving a few dollars, and they are bitspower, I swear by them lol.
Well, aren't the TFC fittings from Dazmode cheaper? In my list, I'm getting 8 straight ones for $48 (so $6 each), but the rotary ones are $11 each though. I'm thinking I should only need two, for the gpu block...

Quote:
Dazmode

2. Way too much tube. If you cut things nicely without waste, you probably need 10 ft, so 15ft would be plenty. You may consider colored or UV tube (it looks nice).
3. You may forgot: couple of drain/fill ports, fans and fan controller, thermal compound...
The P182 has no window, so UV tubing won't give me much. Clear tubing will be fine I think, plus I think that with the black fluid it should look cool for when I'll actually open my case to look at it.

For the fans, I'm already using 7 Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 1600RPM fans in my case. I'm thinking I'll probably be able to get away with only one left at the back of the case, and the 6 others on the rad in push/pull. If I run them at 7V instead of 12V, they should be near completely silent... I'll have to do some testing. If they're too noisy or won't allow me to clock my cpu high enough silently, I'll look into some of the latest fans.

I still got a tube and a half of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D leftover, so that should cover my needs for now. About those drain/fill ports though... How does that work? From what I could see, the Swiftech res comes with 2 plugs for the ports... do I need anything special to drain it? I'm still unsure how the whole draining thing works...
__________________

Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 07:17 PM
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 3,344
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spblue View Post
Thanks a lot for all your replies! Now I have even *more* questions!

Thanks for the fluid tip. I had absolutely no idea how much fluid went into a standard GPU/CPU/RES/RAD cooling loop. I had picked the distilled water because a lot of "how-to" guides specify that you should always flush your new water components (rad, blocks, etc) before putting them in a real loop, to remove possible impurities. I figured I'd just connect everything together with one end in the sink and run some distilled water through. Since I had no idea how much would be needed, I figured more was better than not enough.

I will only get a single bottle of fluid then, but for the cleaning part, am I missing something or can I just use tap water? I was afraid that having some residue in there might interfere with something...
Well for just flushing, cleaning, just use boiling water (tap water works too) to clean everything, you mostly just have to clean the rad, cpu block and pump.. the res and the EK gpu blocks are see through, especially the EK blocks are pure quality, by god I've never seen any dirt or need to clean out the block, it's sparkling clean everytime I used one.

Quote:
As for the CPU block and rad, I'm pretty set on getting the Heatkiller and TFC Xchanger... From all the reviews I've read, these two were pretty much on top as far as performance. Since I'd like to run at 4.2Ghz 24/7 (unless I get unlucky with my cpu ), I want every chance on my side. What I'm unsure of is the EK D5 top... Is it worth getting? I added it because some review sites mention it helps the flow, and it comes with G1/4 so I can screw in standard compression fittings (I'd really like to use comp fittings for everything, since I'm afraid of not securing tubes properly and such).
The Feser rads are pretty good performing rads, since you mentioned a budget of $500, the swiftech one was perfect.. it does perform quite well too and not too expensive, but if you're set your sights on the Feser, go for it.. it's a darn good rad... As for the EK D5 Top, yes you're right it increases the flow and you can use standard fittings, honestly it's not all that lots of flow, so you're temps will not improve all that much, as for fittings, those barbs on the mcp655 are solid plastic, so unless you really take out your hammer, they ain't breaking, and you can just use regular clamps or zip ties to secure the tubing to the barb.. You would be saving good chunk of $$ really..

Quote:
Well, aren't the TFC fittings from Dazmode cheaper? In my list, I'm getting 8 straight ones for $48 (so $6 each), but the rotary ones are $11 each though. I'm thinking I should only need two, for the gpu block...
Yes I was blind lol.. I forgot to notice the 2x fittings, I thought each pack of 4 costed $40.xx.. Sorrie.. :p

Quote:
The P182 has no window, so UV tubing won't give me much. Clear tubing will be fine I think, plus I think that with the black fluid it should look cool for when I'll actually open my case to look at it.
Clear tubing for sure, unfortunately something I've noticed is getting clear tubing is getting rather hard nowadays, lots of places stock more colored and UV tubing then clear (just what I've been noticing) others might have different opinions..

Quote:
For the fans, I'm already using 7 Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 1600RPM fans in my case. I'm thinking I'll probably be able to get away with only one left at the back of the case, and the 6 others on the rad in push/pull. If I run them at 7V instead of 12V, they should be near completely silent... I'll have to do some testing. If they're too noisy or won't allow me to clock my cpu high enough silently, I'll look into some of the latest fans.
Sure should work, btw those S-Flex fans are probably one of the best on Rads for sure, but since I've never had a feser rad or couldn't ever afford one ..:( I'm unsure if you need high cfm fans on feser rads, since they are twice as thick as swiftech ones.. Daz could asnwer better..

Quote:
I still got a tube and a half of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D leftover, so that should cover my needs for now. About those drain/fill ports though... How does that work? From what I could see, the Swiftech res comes with 2 plugs for the ports... do I need anything special to drain it? I'm still unsure how the whole draining thing works...
You don't necessarily need those, if you're just using one loop from the swiftech res (if it's the rev 2 of that res), and depending on if you use the bottom port, if you don't use the bottom port, you could get yourself a tube plug (I think that's the name) or a danger den fill port or similar that plugs the tube, so simply have a tube from the res run downwards, so when you drain just open it and tada.. hek you even gave me an idea for my loop :p

For the thermal paste, I've never used Shin-Estu, so dunno if its non-conductive, you're better off getting yourself a tube of arctic ceramique or arctic cooling 2 (recommended) or from Daz the gelid paste works pretty good too.. I'm also not too sure if EK started giving more thermal pads nowadays, I know with my EK4870 block, I only got one piece of it, which some I spoiled (accidentally) and the remaining got lost somehow.. he sells the pads for the blocks, better off getting a pad odd Daz..
__________________
Intel E8400, Biostar TPower i45
G-Skill PC2-8500 4GB, Saphire HD4870 512mb
Cooler Master HAF 932, Enermax Galaxy DXX 1000W
Samsung 931BW 19" LCD, Logitech MX Revolution
Reply With Quote
  #18 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 08:34 PM
Top Prospect
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 111

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
For the thermal paste, I've never used Shin-Estu, so dunno if its non-conductive, you're better off getting yourself a tube of arctic ceramique or arctic cooling 2 (recommended) or from Daz the gelid paste works pretty good too.. I'm also not too sure if EK started giving more thermal pads nowadays, I know with my EK4870 block, I only got one piece of it, which some I spoiled (accidentally) and the remaining got lost somehow.. he sells the pads for the blocks, better off getting a pad odd Daz..
Thanks for the cleaning tips. As for Shin-Etsu X23-7783D, it's the best thermal paste I've ever used. It handily beats AC MX-2 and MX-3 and IC Diamond, but since Shin-Etsu is a very big player in the semiconductor area, they don't market to enthusiasts much. Unless you're going to order 20L drums of it, you're too small.

They experimented for a while with selling 1g syringes, but now it's very hard to find any. You can find comparative reviews of it here and here. One other thing that might explain its lack of popularity is that it's very thick at room temperature, but it gains elasticity as it warms up. Before I apply it, I put the syringe in a small plastic bag and then drop it for a few mins in a glass of hot water. That way it becomes gooey and easy to apply. Still, on my Ultra-120, I gained a 3 degrees drop from it compared to AS Ceramique. It's that awesome!
__________________

Reply With Quote
  #19 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 09:23 PM
HaDeS
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Unless ya wanna use non conductive fluid or that color specifically why not just use pre-mixed anti freeze? Cost ya 10 bucks from any auto supply store. Glycol is commercial industry standard when it comes to water cooling/heating.
Reply With Quote
  #20 (permalink)  
Old December 30, 2009, 09:27 PM
SugarJ's Avatar
Moderator
F@H
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 6,139

My System Specs

Default

Ya, but doesn't Glycol cause crazing and cracking in acrylic parts? Like the res?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Watercooling Questions... LRG06 Water Cooling 38 July 22, 2009 03:42 PM
A watercooling noob! implosion222 Case Mods, Worklog & Gallery 11 October 20, 2008 02:29 PM
Watercooling in the Antec 900 - few questions James_8970 Water Cooling 32 January 6, 2008 01:48 AM
Noob-ish Questions TOBoiDan CPU's and Motherboards 16 August 19, 2007 07:51 PM
questions regarding watercooling elninio Water Cooling 18 July 29, 2007 10:36 AM