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  #11 (permalink)  
Old November 11, 2009, 10:03 AM
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Here is a quick paint diagram. Going to get some pictures/ a video up later today.

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Old November 11, 2009, 11:07 AM
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Suggestion, leave off the RETURN line of the 480 rad (keep a very close eye on it with bucket under the rad - im guessing its outside the case) including keeping that return line hel up high! fill through the top red dot on the res. with the line off the 480 return, the system should naturally start pushing the air out and start filling with fluid (not using the pump!) I fill up quite a bit of the res at this stage. Then put the return back on the 480, and power the pump. watch the res to see the fluid drop into the pump (res top should still be open!). Stop the pump, fill the res back up quite high, and restart the pump. get it so the res has a decent level while pumping, and the return to res line has a good flow coming back. Now you can bleed the rads and blocks by leaning the case in ALL directions. Just be sure not to tip it so far as to have any come out of the res opening!

You can usually tell when the bubbling sounds have subsided, and the res level isnt changing and you cant see any bubbles in the system. Now its time to do the leak down test. you probably know all that :D but figured id explain how i do it from start to finish.

I had to change out my system 4 times in 2 days. I tried a Q9650 in my WCed 780i board. worked fine for about 30 mins, then wouldnt boot. Decided to try my 790i in it. Retubed it, filled it, and again it ran for 30 mins on the Q9650. decided it was the CPU giving me greif, so tried my trusty E8400 in the 790i, perfect. Then realised i needed the air cooled 790i in my spare air machine, and needed to put the 780i with WB's back in. You guessed it..... the 780i refused to work. I had a minor mishap when changing the WB screws.....

New XFX 780i (couldnt be bothered with WB's this time... just want it working!), and its now running perfectly. But i developed a way to tear my system down, change out MB's and have the loop rerouted and filled ready to fire in little over 25mins lol. I wasnt a PC fan that weekend....
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Old November 11, 2009, 11:09 AM
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I'll let daz take it ha ha YouTube - How to Fill Watercooling Loop and Leak Test the System - LCWB#9
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Old November 11, 2009, 11:10 AM
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The loop looks like it should work ........What happens if you keep res full and keep pumping? It should eventually fill everything up. If pump sucks air things will begin to airlock. Is the pump turned up to full speed? Is it getting correct voltage?
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Old November 11, 2009, 11:14 AM
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See there's a reason there are people called 'professionals' on here lol. Wish i had of seen that vid :D
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Old November 11, 2009, 11:36 AM
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Sounds like everything is as it should be. You have water starting to flow so you only need to get the air our which it will do on it's own or you can help it along by jiggling and tipping the case a bit. The level in your res will certainly drop as the air in the loop is displaced so keep it open so you can squirt more fluid in there as needed. One of my loops has the pump/res near the bottom of the case and the rad at the top and it primed itself just fine. Started the same way you describe too, started slow. Until all the air is completely out of the pump it will cavitate and lose a lot of it's power and be noisy.
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Old November 11, 2009, 01:18 PM
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START OF LOOP: Red > Resivoir to Pump
Pink > Pump to 480 (120.4) Radiator
Cyan > 480 (120.4) Radiator to Swiftech Apogee XT
Green > Swiftech Apogee XT to North Bridge
Light Purple > Northbridge to 240 (120.2) Radiator
Orange > 240 (120.2) Radiator to 4870X2
Yellow > 4870X2 to Resivoir




Now for the problemed areas (in order of appearance):

1.) Note: These swiftech rads I personally think have a terrible finish coat of paint on them. The thing chips just by breathing on it... Well my 120.4 did anyways

You can see here that where the fluid is going IN there is a pocket (red circle), and it just drizzles out the outlet (red arrows)


2.) Even though the OUTLET on the 120.4 radiator drizzles out like that, there is still a collection of water that forms, and goes into the Apogee XT. As you can see, it goes into the INLET on the XT fine, but again, it drizzles out the OUTLET.

Note: This is from the OUTLET of the 120.4 to the Apogee XT, there is nothing inbetween them, it is a direct route.


3.) So like in the picture of the radiators, it drizzles out, but right at the enterance of the northbridge it collects. From there, it drizzles out again, and collects at the enterance of my 120.2 (a). It goes good from there untill about OUTLET of the 4870X2 (b).

a.


b.

Video coming soon...
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Old November 11, 2009, 01:21 PM
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How long have you let it run like that?

BTW same advice still applies - let it run and tip the case to help work the air out. You probably have air in your pump. Is the pump noisy?
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Old November 11, 2009, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biff View Post
How long have you let it run like that?

BTW same advice still applies - let it run and tip the case to help work the air out. You probably have air in your pump. Is the pump noisy?
Its not "noisy" but quite audible.
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Old November 11, 2009, 02:27 PM
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Did you try wobbling the case, those air bubbles might break.. Keep turning on and off the pump, it might help..
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