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  #21 (permalink)  
Old August 24, 2007, 10:02 AM
Misoprostol
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Heh, yeah there's a slight gap on both my APOGEE GT and my APOGEE GTX. Leak test it to be sure, but it sounds right to me.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old August 24, 2007, 08:01 PM
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Just so folks know I "walk the walk" as well as "talking the talk".........



2 hours in the tub checking for leaks......


Another couple of hours hooked up to the mobo checking for leaks in the installed position....


Damn hard to do the proper waiting for this thing when all I want to do is flash it up to see what kind of temps I'm gonna get with it...... :)
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old August 24, 2007, 09:39 PM
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Initial install with the ceramique was absolutely horrid!!!! Almost +10C under load immediately.

Re-installed (paying more attention to the ceramique directions from the web-site... :) ), and I'm now sitting at pretty well the same temps I had with the TT block, but the temp swings are larger.

Hopefully this is more to do with the break-in period for ceramique. If not I'll give it a try with MX-1.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old August 25, 2007, 04:20 PM
Misoprostol
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hmmm... I wonder if your pump / rad are holding you back? I've heard of this before...
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old August 25, 2007, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misoprostol View Post
hmmm... I wonder if your pump / rad are holding you back? I've heard of this before...
Yes, you suggested this might be the case and I'm starting to think you were right.

After 12+ hours of break-in (4 hours moderate load / 1/2 hour off / 4 hours moderate load/ etc.... ) I'm getting idle temps which are 5+ lower than those I got with the TT block, but load temps appear virtually unchanged. (probably lower by 1c average, but the apoggee's temps fluctuate quite wildly whereas the TT block was rock steay under load so it's hard to be sure).

I suspect that the rad/pump combination were well matched to the performance of the TT block and that they may be unable to disapate more heat than they already did with the TT block.

We'll see after a good week's worth of break-in.

At the very least, I've done away with the acrylic top so don't need to worry about that cracking like the last one did.... :)
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old August 25, 2007, 10:29 PM
Misoprostol
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looks like you may end up investing in a better pump/rad. The DB-1 pump from D-TEK is quite inexpensive. You can also pick up a Swiftech MCR-120-QP for quite cheaply and they will kick the pants off that Thermaltake crap.
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Old August 25, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Is there a prefered 120mm rad that performs fairly well?

With the way my case is currently set up, if there's a 120 rad that does a fair job I might be able to replace the current TT 120 (internal mount) and do away with the 240 all together.

It'd be worth my while to invest in a more expensive 120 if it would be able to do the job.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old August 26, 2007, 01:50 AM
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Wilson, are you using the Swiftech Apogee GT water block? If so does it matter which barb you have from your rad? As is I have my rad to the top barb. I know some blocks have one bard situated directly situated over the CPU which you want connected from your rad. In therory it would provide the coolest point.

Another question about when you applied your thermal paste. How'd you go about it this time?

I had mentioned this in a thread a while ago not sure if I got an answer I do remember some butt head say "read the instructions" Yeah like I never read them before...

In fact the Arctic Silver instructions mentioned a totally different way of applying the compound then the way he was doing it.. He mention "tinning" Not saying his way isn't good, I just don't like when people give bunk info.
If I remember correct Wilson you also apply your compound this way.

Could you please give a step by step illustration on how you do it please?
Thanks a lot.

I just noticed this... Are you going from your pump or to your pump from your water block? If so your not suppose to do that correct? Or is that your reservoir? Can you take a snap shot of your inner drive bay just so me's can have a peek?


BTW, Perfect thread for where I am at with my build. Oh what's better Arctic Silver 5 or the ceramique?
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Last edited by Corpus Masochist; August 26, 2007 at 01:56 AM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old August 26, 2007, 06:26 AM
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Yes, I am using the Apogee cooler now.

The "Tinting" (that's what they call it on the instruction PDF... :) ) method is listed on pages 3 & 4 on this site.......
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._dual_wcap.pdf

It's basically an extremely light treatment for the base of the water block.

This is the method I used. (Followed by the "line" of ceramique on the cpu head)

This is my first attempt at using ceramique so I can't give you any advice as to what method / type of thermal paste works better ATM, and the cure time on ceramique is critical to best temps so I won't have any idea for at least a week.

Next weekend I'm picking up some MX-2 from my local supplier so I'll probably slap some on to compare it with what my ceramique temps are by then.

As far as barbs go, the apogee is not directional it doesn't matter which one you hook the input/output to, but the diamond "fins" you can see through the barbs are.... that's what the little paper insert is trying to illustrate in case you install the larger O-Ring.

I'm running two rads, but the setup would be the same since the rads are in series......

I run Pump -> CPU waterblock -> Rad1 - Rad2 -> resevoir (it's incorporated into my pump) -> Pump.

You want the water going into your waterblock to be the coolest possible in the loop so you want it coming either from your pump or from your rad (two different schools of thought in this.....).

It really shouldn't matter in a single block loop. Where you really need to pay attention to routing is in multi block loops and in that case you would want to ensure that your CPU block got the rad cooled water before it went to aGPU / Chipset block.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old August 26, 2007, 07:05 AM
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Quick and dirty flow pic......

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