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Old August 22, 2007, 05:48 PM
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Ok, so I've got the Apogge in my hands now and it's got the extra larger o-ring.

I should install that right for better performance???? (There is no insert with the block which mentions the larger o-ring)

I've already spent half an hour trying to get it installed... what a freaking pain trying to get it in the slot, and the base plate tightened down!!!! :)
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Old August 22, 2007, 06:04 PM
Misoprostol
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haha yeah it's a bit of a challenge. It took me about 20 mins to do the GT, and about 5 mins to do the GTX once I had practice. I find it works to kinda stretch the O-ring a bit first. You just gotta keep at it. Some people's o-rings seems harder to do than others'.

Some people are reporting it being dead easy, while others report it being a total pain.
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Old August 22, 2007, 06:12 PM
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Heh.... I install o-rings daily for my job, but they're supposed to go into round slots!!!!! :)

(This is the putting a round peg into a square hole test isn't it........ :) ).

I also had fits trying to figure out what the "diamond direction" insert was all about.... I was trying to find a difference between the input and output holes.

All became clear once I decided to tackle the o-ring........... :)
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Old August 22, 2007, 06:24 PM
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On my Swiftech kit, I have the Apogee Vanilla, which with also came with the o-ring. I didn't install it, didn't bother with it.

My E2140 is screaming at 3.0GHz, but load temps are 40C, as I type this.

Is it really necessary?
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Old August 22, 2007, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
On my Swiftech kit, I have the Apogee Vanilla, which with also came with the o-ring. I didn't install it, didn't bother with it.

My E2140 is screaming at 3.0GHz, but load temps are 40C, as I type this.

Is it really necessary?
It's not necessary, but apparently does improve temps.

Seems to me when Miso did his first WB roundup there was a rather large difference on the GTX with and without the bowing that the larger O-ring causes.
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Old August 23, 2007, 07:04 PM
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Going to install it either tomorrow or saturday.....

Included Arctic Ceramic or AC MX-1?

(Might do a comparison later, but I just want to get a good install of this thing right now....... :) ).
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Old August 23, 2007, 07:26 PM
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Default hopefully you can post some pics SSwilson?

trying to learn a little about Water Cooling from you lot...arctic silver ceramic is very viscous from my experience..but ive got some nice temps now. Like to see the pics of the watercooling rigs-very cool.
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Old August 23, 2007, 07:35 PM
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MX-1 is very thick (almost claylike, but thinner) and cannot be spread using the finger method.

It does seem to do a great job, although it's a bit messy. Some of it breaks down on Air cooled systems and coats parts with a light clay-like dust.

MX-1's main claim to fame is that it does not require much of a break-in period. (I don't think it "cures" like other tims do, the break-in is just to allow it to spread out properly).

It apparently also has a much longer installed lifespan and doesn't break down over time.

That said... I'm hoping somebody will have advice for me as to what application will do better... (I'm guessing the ceramic for a fairly well polished base.... :) ).
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Old August 23, 2007, 09:22 PM
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Ceramique for water cooling imo.
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Old August 23, 2007, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misoprostol View Post
Ceramique for water cooling imo.
That's probably what I'm going to go with. Thanks for the suggestion Miso.

Finally got that o-ring installed......

If the corners are tight to the plastic, and there is a slight gap in the middle of each side, does that sound like it's installed correctly????

Seems to me like it might "bow" the plastic or the thinner top plate before it bows the base plate........
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