Splicing fan wires - 3:1

[TALON]

Hi,

NOOB ALERT....:help:

In the quest for minimumal wire clutter along the 120.3 I want to get the 3 headers to one by splicing the fans together.

I've searched this forum (and five others) and can't find the definitive answer I'm looking for aside from not splicing the yellow speed sensor wire from each fan.

It is really as simple as just taking the red/black from the 3rd fan and splicing into the red/black of the 2nd fan and then the same into the 1st? ...then shrinking the splices, pulling the sleaving back, heating the shrink and standing back to marvel at the sweetness...

If this is how it's done would there be any benefit in splicing both the 3rd and 2nd directly to the 1st?

Also, does anyone runs 3 fans off a single fan connector on a Kaze Master? From what I can find the max for each connector is 1A and each of the YL D12BL-12-UB's draw 0.3A each. So unless there is some freak electrical algorithm that screws with some Amp multiplier I think this should be good to go...yes/no?

This and probably a couple more questions and I can finally move from block mock-up and rad flush loop to the real deal!

( a little off topic, OK completely but I'm here and need to rant, flushing a PA has driven me up the wall, fill/soak/shake/drain/repeat I don't know how many times till I was getting what looked like clear to me...hook it up in a flush loop with only the pump, ran it for a couple hours and couldn't believe that more flux then the 1st shake came out, 2nd flush run only had a slight bit of flux, one more to come then dis-assemble the pump to ensure it's all flushed )

[enaberif]

You got it.

Fan 3 Red to Fan 2 Red to Fan 1 Red
Fan 3 Black to Fan 2 Black to Fan 1 Black

Cut off yellow from 3 and 2 and use 1

When it comes time to cleaning the rad use as hot as water as possible and swish it around and let it sit and rinse and repeat. needs to be hot water.

[Shadowmeph]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You got it.

Fan 3 Red to Fan 2 Red to Fan 1 Red
Fan 3 Black to Fan 2 Black to Fan 1 Black

Cut off yellow from 3 and 2 and use 1

When it comes time to cleaning the rad use as hot as water as possible and swish it around and let it sit and rinse and repeat. needs to be hot water.

what is the purpose of the yellow wire?

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Shadowmeph

what is the purpose of the yellow wire?

Yellow wire is RPM and since you can't monitor all 3 fans properly unless you want to splice into them and extend them its not necessary to run 3 or even 1 really, but by running 1 yellow wire you'll get a general idea of what your fans are spinning at.

[miggs78]

Well here I would like to thank TALON for asking, and Curt for answering, I've had this question on my head for weeks to ask.

[astrodanco]

Don't forget to use the start up current of your fans in your calculations, not the running current. Otherwise you might smoke your fan header. Too bad fans can't do staggered start up. The running current is usually far lower than the start up current.

[KaptCrunch]

could use a panel station switch for fan sensing of 1 at a time if wanted to have monitering PDF

[TALON]

Thanks for clarifying that enaberif.

Two hrs after starting and I'm pretty happy with the result. I only used the denser CleanCut sleeving on the power run that will go from the 1st fan to the Kaze Master header as that's what will be seen. The sleeving between the 3rd and 2nd and 2nd and 1st will be tucked up at the top of the case at the back so I used cheaper fleexo sleaving there

I attached a pic of my handy work..don't think I'm at a high enough level yet to include pics in posts...humm apparently I can

What I learned for next time:

1. Practice removing a 1cm strip of wire coating on a piece of scrap wire before you actually attempt to remove it from the wire attached to a fan you are working on. You need to remove this strip from both the red and black wires of fan 1 and 2 about 3 cm from the fan body to be able to solder the leads from fan 2 and 3. You need to be careful that you don't also strip out any of the wire from the section you are removing the coating from.
2. Before you start soldering make sure that you have placed the sleeving and heatshrink tubing as required...don't ask how I figured this one out...
3. Plan out the length of sleeving to cut so that it can be stretched tight and held tight by the heatshrink. If you look close in the pic I attached you can see I did a better job of this between fan 3 and 2 then between fan 2 and 1
4. Solder pulls to the heat source, don't apply the solder directly to the soldering gun tip or you'll end up with a big blob of solder