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  #31 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 11:29 AM
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What kind of filter is that?
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 12:56 PM
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looking forward to the results. very cool thank man
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazmode View Post
What kind of filter is that?
It's a Pentek Filter clear casing without the bypass button. Usually they are blue with a red bypass button. Did not need a bypass button so I got the cheaper white one without. The filter itself is a Pentek 5 Micron sediment filter. The main idea is to see if things can be fixed, reversed or whatever outcome and record it. I am hoping this will trap whatever is inside the loop causing this problem. If I have to I will send the damn tube to a lab for analysis of the damn white stuff to see what it actually is and how it could have been caused.

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looking forward to the results. very cool thank man
Same here. Soon we will have some answers and hopefully not more questions.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 01:51 PM
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If you want my tube, I can send it to you... 3 weeks on water, Tygon tube.

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  #35 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 01:56 PM
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That's okay I got a bunch of them myself.... Even got some old Primochill red with some white stuff in it. That's what I am using on the filter actually...Well clean one's not the dirty one's.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Sorry for being n00b... Where do you buy those filters? Water Depot or something?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old June 17, 2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazmode View Post
Sorry for being n00b... Where do you buy those filters? Water Depot or something?
Got it from http://www.filtersfast.com. The shipping is expensive but quick. They come in many sizes and you have to watch what threading as well. They do come in 1/4" threading so watch for that.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old June 18, 2009, 02:56 PM
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Okay news update...Will update with a pic tonight. Not going to make any conclusions yet but the filter is working really well and it seems to be reversing the damage to the tubes. I will take a picture and have a side by side comparison to the older pic to see if my eyes are not playing tricks on me.

I am starting to think it is leftover flux from radiators. Now I know some radiator manufacturers clean their rads prior to sale and others do not. I bet you if we asked which rads were used when the clouding happened we would get a consensus of what company cleans and who does not. The reason why I think it is leftover flux is because it oxidizes metal so that it can bond better with solder. It is why it is used in rads. I just so happen to have flux at home and I will be doing some swab tests at home to see if it is the tubes getting oxidized. Would explain so damn much such as why some tubes cloud quicker then others (some oxidize quicker due to their manufacturing differences).
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old June 18, 2009, 03:02 PM
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I can confirm then, that Swiftech and Feser are both cloud tubes.

Feser recommends 8 flashes with hot water and advise against vinegar.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old June 18, 2009, 03:11 PM
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I can confirm HWLabs and Thermochill then too. Mind you the HWLAbs is not as bad as some which makes me think they somewhat clean theirs prior to shipment. Also read up as well that the flux when burned with solder does actually become acidic. Too bad I don't have PH strips for more tests. Will have to look into that.
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