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Old June 7, 2009, 06:15 PM
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Well, apparently the fluid does glow under UV, but with that black tubing, it'll mostly be a moot point. The only clear tubing that I've seen that won't go cloudy in time, is the Masterkleer tubing, which isn't nearly as flexible as the Primochill stuff you've got listed. If you want colour, I'd just get the tubing coloured to begin with.

Are you sure you need a 90 degree fitting? Or even a 45? It's not like they're instant-death to a loop, but they don't help your flow, they provide two extra possible points of failure, and that Primochill tubing is actually pretty good for bending without kinking.

The rest of the list is looking pretty solid. If you're on a tight budget there might be a few bucks to be saved, but nothing overt.
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Old June 7, 2009, 06:23 PM
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Is the liquid enough for my rig? Does it prevent mold (biocide). This guy I email told me I should get 90 degree fittings, I dunno. Remember this is my first time WCing so any pointers are helpful. And can my cpu block be used on future cpu's?
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Old June 7, 2009, 06:33 PM
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I'm assuming that's a 1L bottle, so it should be enough for one loop. Usually it takes multiple radiators before you need more than that. And yes, it will act as a biocide. (And just because it's labeled "Anti-corrosive" doesn't mean you get to skip leak-testing.)

Before ordering, you should make an effort to plan where everything is going to go inside/outside the case, and how you're going to route your tubing. I understand this can be tricky when you're not experienced with the components, but even a general idea can tell you whether or not extra fittings will be needed. A number of tech forums may have galleries devoted to watercooling projects, you might consider browsing through there and see how they arranged everything. I'm not sure if anybody here's worked watercooling into an Antec 1200 yet.
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Old June 7, 2009, 06:35 PM
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Plastic fitting are junk (sorry have to say it).

Yes, Feser contains biocide already. You choice is blue and glows blue too.

I personally don't like MCR radiators, but for the price....Same for GTZ. You will be able to use GTZ with future CPUs as long as Swiftech will provide us with appropriate hold-down plate and back plate.

Tubing you can take Feser clear, that glows blue or even Blue/UV blue.

1L bottle shoudl be enough for Dual rad set up, unless you will run exceptionally long tubing runs.
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Old June 7, 2009, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpG View Post
Before ordering, you should make an effort to plan where everything is going to go inside/outside the case, and how you're going to route your tubing. I understand this can be tricky when you're not experienced with the components, but even a general idea can tell you whether or not extra fittings will be needed. A number of tech forums may have galleries devoted to watercooling projects, you might consider browsing through there and see how they arranged everything. I'm not sure if anybody here's worked watercooling into an Antec 1200 yet.
This is GOLD. Pay attention the the advice.
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Old June 7, 2009, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z Overlord View Post
And can my cpu block be used on future cpu's?
Sorry, missed that question.This will fit all socket 775, and there are already adapters out so this can fit socket 1366 and AM2. And it's almost certain that Swiftech will be releasing an adapter for 1156 when it finally hits the shelves. So the block is likely as future-proof as anything will ever be.
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Old June 7, 2009, 08:35 PM
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I'll make sure to look at pics (I've seen like 3 Antec 1200 WC)

(And just because it's labeled "Anti-corrosive" doesn't mean you get to skip leak-testing.)

Leak Testing? I'm new I know. So what is it? Any other useful tips? (even if they seem basic or obvious)
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Old June 7, 2009, 09:23 PM
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This is not your case, but you may find it interesting:

DazMode • View topic - Watercooling build HAF932 i7 Step-by-step in pictures
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Old June 7, 2009, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z Overlord View Post
I'll make sure to look at pics (I've seen like 3 Antec 1200 WC)

(And just because it's labeled "Anti-corrosive" doesn't mean you get to skip leak-testing.)

Leak Testing? I'm new I know. So what is it? Any other useful tips? (even if they seem basic or obvious)
Get your loop all plumbed up and just fill it with some distilled water and plug your pump into an extra pc or a jump-started PSU(details can be provided if needed). Then you just let it run for 24 hours(minimum, more for a first time watercooling) and tighten anything that seems to leak.

To test for radiator/block leaks: open them up and check that the gasket and everything is in the correct places, proper placement should be shown on the maker's website. A great method too for this is to buy 1-2 extra feet of sacrificial tubing and just make a little dummy loop on the cpu block for example and then fill it to ensure that the block isn't leaking anywhere, same for the res/pump/radiators. It is much easier to find a leaky radiator when it's outside of the case.


Best advice any of us can give you is to take it slow, be very very careful and ask us any time you need assistance or are unsure of how to do something. There's nothing like experience to help learn a new skillset, HWC will be happy to provide.
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Old June 7, 2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z Overlord View Post
(And just because it's labeled "Anti-corrosive" doesn't mean you get to skip leak-testing.)

Leak Testing? I'm new I know. So what is it? Any other useful tips? (even if they seem basic or obvious)
Basically, before you power up your computer, you run the system for an extended period of time, in order to make absolutely certain that there aren't any leaks. Besides the obvious tube/clamps spot, there are all kinds of other places that a system might leak once under pressure. Bad seals in a waterblock or pump, hairline cracks in a reservoir, improperly tightened fitting, you name it.

Some people actually prefer to assemble the loop outside of the case, and test it that way first before attaching everything to the computer. Bit of a pain in my opinion, but if something goes wrong, cleanup is much easier. If you install everything before testing, you can bleed your system at the same time as you leak-test. Regardless, the idea is to run the water cooling loop, without anything else in the system being powered up. This way, worst-case scenario, all you've got is some wet hardware that needs a day or two to dry, as opposed to shorted hardware.

The way you do this is to unhook all the PSU connectors, except for the connector that powers the pump. Then you take the business end of the 24-pin ATX connector (that would normally be plugged into the motherboard), and connect the one green wire to any of the black wires. There are different ways, I personally use a half-paperclip. Doing this will power-up the PSU, and power the pump.

Before you do this, ensure that your reservoir is mostly full of fluid, and that gravity is feeding that fluid towards the pump. DO NOT LET THE PUMP RUN COMPLETELY DRY. Once that's done, turn on the PSU, and let the pump push as much fluid through the system as possible, until the reservoir is almost empty. Remove the paperclip (to stop the pump), and refill the reservoir. Run the pump again. Keep doing this until the loop is full of water. At this point, just let the pump run, and get the rest of the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir around 2/3 full, not completely topped up.

At this point, just let the system run, and start looking for any signs of leaks. A popular tactic is to put kleenex around the barb/clamp connections, as any leakage will cause the tissue to shrink on itself. Give it around fifteen minutes or so, and if you don't see anything, come back periodically to make sure nothing's changed. The water level in the reservoir will drop slightly over the next little while, this is normal, top it up if necessary. Feel free to wiggle the tubing or something, in case anything's ready to go. Basically, if anything's going to leak, you'd much rather it happen now, instead of later on when your expensive hardware is powered on. To each their own, but I personally prefer a 24-hour leak test. It can be inconvenient, but so is watercooling.

That should about cover it. More exhaustive than necessary, but it never hurts to get things right the first time. Feel free to post any other questions.
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