Th Dr. gave me the bug.

[Sniper]

Now that I have a reason to go H2O cooled I'm gonna make the jump over the next couple of weeks. Slightly diff but similar leaving options open for future additions. I didn't do the x2 x4 ect but you know there are things i'll be getting more than one of lol.

Order from NCIX

Feser One Fluid UV CLEAR/BLUE NON-CONDUCTIVE Water Replacement for Liquid Logisys CLK12UV2 Dual UV Cold Cathode Kit 12IN 3.0MMCorsair Dominator Airflow Memory Fan *3 Year Manufacturer Warranty*

Feser One Feser Tube Clear UV 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD Tubing (10 Feet)Arctic Silver Alumina Premium Ceramic Thermal Compound 1.75 Gram Tube

Logisys CLK12UV2 Dual UV Cold Cathode Kit 12IN 3.0MM

Swiftech Adjustable Black Hose Clamps for 1/2IN Inner Diameter 3/4IN Outer Diameter Tubing (2 Pack) (x4)Ek Supreme Plexi CPU Water Block LGA775 AM2 S939 G1/4 No Barbs

Ek Water Blocks LGA775-ONLY Mounting Plate for Ek Supreme

Ek Water Blocks EK-BACKPLATE for LGA775 CPU Water Blocks

Pts Petra PT_NUKE Concentrated Biocide Water Additive for Water Cooling (10ML)


Order from DD

Danger Den Fillport

Compression Fitting 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (x6)

Fill Syringe

ATX Power Supply Bypass Adapter

Male to Male G 1/4 BSPP Nipple

DD-Delrin 90 Degree

FB (Fat Boy) G 1/4 Fittings (x6)


From PCS.com

EK Asus 3a Mosfet Water Block for ASUS Motherboards LGA 775 (includes X38) (x2)

EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a (x2)

EK-NB/SB 5 Northbridge Water Block

EK-SB Striker 2 Formula Southbridge Water Block

Sunbeam Multi-Fan Power Port

ACE 40 x 20mm LED Fan - UV Blue (x3)

[Dr_BenD_over]

A couple of day's with that X2 eh?

[jdrom17]

Not really sure why your getting a blue dye bomb and getting Feser One which is clear and under UV it's blue. You might as well just get blue Feser One. Less additives.

I'm pretty sure the RadBox is basically universal, though the Swiftech MCR320 performs better than the Stealth IIRC.

And no CPU block? Lotta money to dump just for GPU cooling...

I'd go with the dark nickel plated Bitspower barbs, but that's just me.

[MpG]

No trouble there. The radbox only uses the mounting bolts on one fan, and those are universal across 120mm fans. Although I'd expect an MCR320 to have the edge over the Stealh. You don't have them listed, so I hope you've got three fans kicking around for that rad.

[phil3_66666]

yesthe radbox work on black ice rad(i have one on a black ice pro rad) in fact it work with any 120mm rad

and just like that.. for my own experience i dont use anymore primochill dye and hose clamp(or other plastic hose clamp).. if you buy a pre-mixed collant(excep for primochill collant if you want color) you dont need dye anyway.. be the way the best dye i ever use is the d-tek one/feser one and for hose clamp go at canadiantire buy some plomber hose clamp

[phil3_66666]

dahhh i write english to slow....

[Sniper]

Originally Posted by Dr_BenD_over

A couple of day's with that X2 eh?

I've been itchin for another water setup for quite awhile anyways. heheh

Originally Posted by jdrom17

Not really sure why your getting a blue dye bomb and getting Feser One which is clear and under UV it's blue. You might as well just get blue Feser One. Less additives.

I'm pretty sure the RadBox is basically universal, though the Swiftech MCR320 performs better than the Stealth IIRC.

And no CPU block? Lotta money to dump just for GPU cooling...

I'd go with the dark nickel plated Bitspower barbs, but that's just me.

I want it real blue & besides the extra is only $5.

I went with that rad as it looks to be slimmer than the others to save on space out back if that's where I end up mounting it. Which i'm not even sure of. I might even get a new case for this(more than likely will).

That's why i'm going with a triple rad so I can ad the CPU in later when it's necessary to do so but right now with the 45nm chips heat isn't really an issue right. Maybe once I go quad & start needing cooling for OCing then I'll ad it.

I was going to use those barbs but judging by the pics the length of the screw in looks half as deep as the DD ones right.

Originally Posted by phil3_66666

yesthe radbox work on black ice rad(i have one on a black ice pro rad) in fact it work with any 120mm rad

and just like that.. for my own experience i dont use anymore primochill dye and hose clamp(or other plastic hose clamp).. if you buy a pre-mixed collant(excep for primochill collant if you want color) you dont need dye anyway.. be the way the best dye i ever use is the d-tek one/feser one and for hose clamp go at canadiantire buy some plomber hose clamp

Yeah I want it BLUE though lol.

I usually do use those metal clamps but aren't needed really & look horrendous imo in a system.

[Linus@ncix.com]

If you want it really blue, just get a bottle of Feser View blue dye and add as much as you want.

If you want that GPU block, move fast. It'll be at least 2 weeks for more to come in and I think there's only 1-2 left.

Linus

[jdrom17]

If you want deep blue I'd suggest getting the pre-coloured Feser/Primochill tubing, but it's up to you. If you stick with Tygon though, get 10ft so you have lots of extra since you'll probably want to redo your loop a couple times...

The Bitspower barbs work great, I have the 3/8" ones on my D-TEK FuZion v2 and the rest of my barbs are Bitspower Compression ones. No leaks and they have a nice grip to them compared to the Primochill Ghost barbs I used originally which began leaking after a while.

[miggs78]

Originally Posted by MpG

No trouble there. The radbox only uses the mounting bolts on one fan, and those are universal across 120mm fans. Although I'd expect an MCR320 to have the edge over the Stealth. You don't have them listed, so I hope you've got three fans kicking around for that rad.

2nd that, get the swiftech rad.