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Old September 16, 2008, 06:54 PM
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Default Just about to pull the trigger on my first WC setup

Well after a long few weeks of debating and making decisions, I have finally decided to hold off on Core i7 and wait 6 months or so too see what happens.

Until then I need something to tide me over so I decided jumping over to watercooling would be fun project that will also allow a little more overclocking headroom once I pick up my friends QX9650 in a few weeks. This will be a CPU only loop for the time being. A second loop might come later for the video cards.

So, now I have to pick my parts. I've read alot of posts and have compiled a list of what I plant to buy. If anyone has any suggestions on other parts please let me know the part and reason for the switch. Money is not really an issue, I'm ok with paying a premium for the best quality parts within reason.

And now the list:

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee GTZ

Rad: Feser One X-240 Xchanger dual 120 mm

Pump: Swiftech MCP655

Res: Swiftech Micro-res

Barbs: Bitspower 1/4 to 1/2 inch barbs x6 (I heard good things about these barbs, are compression fittings any better?)

Tubing: This is where I'm still lost. I'm looking at the tygon , feser and primochill tubing. There all around $25 for 10 feet. Are these all about the same? I'll be using some wormclamps I'll pick up from Rona.

Fans: Also a little confused here. I don't want anything over 40 dba and obviously as high cfm as possible. I was looking at some of the Noctua's or Panaflow's. I will be using 4 of them in a push/pull configuration. Oh and static pressure? Is this important compared to CFM? Whats more important?

I'll be using some distilled water from my local supermarket. This is alright I assume? Will also mix in some biocide to prevent unwanted stuff in my loop. Does the non-conductive stuff really work? Any temp difference with coolant vs distiller water?

I think that about covers it, if I have forgotten anything please let me know. I will be ordering all of this off NCIX more than likely and would like to place the order sometime before this weekend.

This isin't a silent solution for me, I wan't more from my processor than what air can give me but I don't want to jump into anything like a peltier quite yet.

Do I need to rinse out the block or rad once I get them? or can I just attach the barbs and start up the system?

Thanks for reading!
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Old September 16, 2008, 07:28 PM
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Re: the Feser Conductivity test Testing Nonconductive coolants

Should be required viewing for anybody interested in "non-conductive" coolants.

All tubing choices are good, I'd personally pick the one that you can piggyback on the order of your other stuff. If you get the Tygon, make sure you get the thicker-walled stuff (1/2"x3/4"), since it much more resistant to kinking. I've heard that the Primochill and Feser stuff can bend tighter, but they're also stiffer, so they can put more sideways/twisting stress on the waterblocks. But that's mostly just an issue for chipset watercooling, or waterblocks without backplates.

Airflow, assuming the company's ratings are even remotely trustworthy, is a measure of how well the fan flows with no-restriction at all. Static pressure is with 100% restriction. A radiator situation is going to fall somewhere in-between those two extremes. Once you narrows your selection down to the 'good' fans, your performance pretty much boils down to how fast the fan is spinning and how thick the fan is.

I'm a big fan of the Panaflo's - great bearings, they undervolt great, and move lots of air for their noise level, but even the slowest models still spin at around 1700rpm, which is quite a bit noiser than the really low-speed fans like the Noctua's. If you get them, you'll almost certainly want to undervolt them. They also need a little extra space, since they're 38mm thick.

The BP fittings are excellent. Compression fittings simply look better - for long-term secureness, nothing beats barbs and worm-gear clamps.

You should probably rinse out the block and rad when you get them, just to be on the safe side. Waterblocks are notorious for having little bits of sealing or metal burrs left in them, and the GTZ's fine-findesign will choke on stray bits of rubber. Haven't seen for sure whether Feser rads come with flux/crap in them, but it never hurts to double-check.
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Old September 17, 2008, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the info, those videos really explain the use of "coolants". I decided to grab the panaflo's with a rheobus fan controller.

Placing the order now, build log to come soon!
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Old September 17, 2008, 06:36 PM
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MpG cool vidoes, very informative. Oh and you look kool ..

It was funny when you kept pouring distilled water, and kept looking at the monitor.

Hey sorry to go offtopic, since you almost scared me showing that coolant to be crap, is that Feser One stuff any better or worse.
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Old September 17, 2008, 09:39 PM
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Heh, that's not me in the videos. It's a guy who runs a shop who's been involved in the water-cooling community for quite some time now. Great guy, absolutely fantastic service, and always interested in exploring/challenging new ideas, such as those videos there.
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Old September 17, 2008, 09:45 PM
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just so u know, the rad u chose is on sale for $70. and the Fuzion V2 is onsale for $50
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Old September 18, 2008, 12:36 AM
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7/16" x 5/8" tubing is great.
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Old September 18, 2008, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpG View Post
Heh, that's not me in the videos. It's a guy who runs a shop who's been involved in the water-cooling community for quite some time now. Great guy, absolutely fantastic service, and always interested in exploring/challenging new ideas, such as those videos there.
Oh yea, I thought I recognized him, for some reason I thought it was you.. :P

But still MpG interesting videos.
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