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Old May 16, 2010, 05:21 PM
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Default How to tell which card is reference design?

In the market for an ATI 5800 series card. Looking at the 5870 but I'm confused by the model numbers. It seems that the non-ref designs are slightly cheaper so that is one way to tell. The reason why I would prefer a reference model is I intend to use after market cooling.

On another note. I've got a problem that is becoming apparent since I've moved my computer to the living room so I can keep an eye on my son while he uses the computer. Somethime usually when playing a game, if I use the microwave in the kitchen or vacum I will trip the breaker and the power panel. My house is on 120 amp service. For electrical gear that is on the breaker I've got some heavy hitters, 6 standard outlets, Stove outlet, Microwave 1200watt, 50 inch Plasma TV, Computer the one in my profile, couple lamps, cieling Fan.

Do I need to upgrade my panel to 200-220 amp service. Or can I split up the living/kitchen area outlets onto separate breakers? Any ideas? Suggestions? I'm desperate.
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Old May 16, 2010, 05:58 PM
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good q. the pcb might have changed a bit from initial offerings. a different fan configuration(look at sapphire) might not hide a different(layout) beast beneath
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Old May 16, 2010, 06:04 PM
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HOW TO: Tell an ATI 5xxx Reference card from non-reference - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net

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Old May 16, 2010, 06:36 PM
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If you have a plug on your stove run an extesion to your computer. try the micowave see if the computer trips. If it doesent then you eather need to use a battery back up system or run a extension from anuther room or put in a new wire from the pannel to where you have the computer. my gues is that you dont have iosolated plugs in the kitchen and its all drawing on the same cercut.

If it does trip when the microwve comes on then you need a battery back up to iosolate your computer from niose on your electical lines coming from te microwave.

Plug the mirowave in to the stove if yu have a plug on the stove this should solve the problem.

sorry fore rambeling
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Old May 16, 2010, 07:14 PM
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The breaker isn't tripping because of electrical noise. It's tripping because you're overloading the thing. You need to run another circuit. Forget about switching to 220V because that can be a pain to deal with and can cause problems with other non-full-range devices.
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Old May 16, 2010, 07:31 PM
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not 220 V the plug 120 V near the burners. fused and isolated on most modern stoves.
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Old May 16, 2010, 08:07 PM
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Hello Pelt,
The stove is supposed to be on its own breaker. The clothes dryer is supposed to be on its own breaker as well.

Assuming that the microwave is in the kitchen, it should be on a circuit within the kitchen (a kitchen circuit may possibly power the dining room or hallway).

The kitchen counter receptacles should be on at least 2 15 amp breakers (kettle 1200w, microwave 1000w, toaster oven 1200w). Usually, the refrigerator gets its own circuit.

Whether you have hot water baseboard or forced air furnace, it would be on its own circuit
Water heater on its own circuit.

If you plan to rewire the house, divide the circuits up by the respective rooms.
Include extra circuits in the rooms where computers and home theatre are located.

If you don't know a trustworthy electrician, let me know. I know an electrician that has done work for myself and my family.

At minimum you should have another circuit put in your living room.
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Old May 17, 2010, 06:16 AM
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Halifax Pete is right.

It's probably an older house with a gas/oil furnace heating, which explains the 120Amps panel.

Split outlets for a few 120V power hungry appliances (microwave, fridge, freezer) are the norm with new houses, according the Canadian electrical code...especially in the kitchen, where the outlets on the countertop should be all split, so using the microwave and the toaster at the same time doesn't blow a fuse/breaker

You can pay an electrician to come to your place and identify each circuits and tell you which outlet is on which breaker, to help you find the right circuit (one with a lesser load).

Rewiring a house and swapping the 100-120a for a 200amp panel would cost a few thousand dollars.
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Old May 17, 2010, 07:36 AM
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Years ago the electrical code allowed a the use of additional 30 - 60 amp junction panel if all of the circuits were used on the current breaker/fuse panel. A trusty electician should give you this option if the Code still allows it (rather than charging for a new panel).
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Old May 17, 2010, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for the the input guys. Looks like I'll have to get the circuts split up.
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