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Old August 9, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by taimoorali007 View Post
My GPU whine I know, but could be a mobo too?, so thats why buzzing in headphones and disconnecting/conneting rapidly sometime?

this is not a whining what you ear in the headphone. Aside, A UPS will not hurt and help to avoid problem as AKG mention.
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Old August 9, 2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by botat29 View Post
this is not a whining what you ear in the headphone. Aside, A UPS will not hurt and help to avoid problem as AKG mention.

Okay, it means that need nothing just fix my wiring? And what about AC voltage drops I mentioned?
  #63 (permalink)  
Old August 9, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Does your PSU have the switch on the back to set to 220 range? I know newer ones auto switch, but some models still have the 120/220 switch. Just a thought to check, it could affect how hard the PSU is working to voltage regulate, and maybe cause some issues.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old August 9, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Sagath View Post
Does your PSU have the switch on the back to set to 220 range? I know newer ones auto switch, but some models still have the 120/220 switch. Just a thought to check, it could affect how hard the PSU is working to voltage regulate, and maybe cause some issues.

No, its auto-range from 100v-264v with max input of AC 8Amps
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Old August 9, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by westom View Post
Again, if that UPS does what so many have claimed (due to an education by advertising), then the poster has also quoted manufacturer spec numbers. Remember, the majority that also *knew* Saddam had WMDs? Myths are so easily promoted by wild speculation; especially when numbers are ignored. Some numbers only posted by the few who know this stuff.

A UPS that claims a sine wave output - subjectively - also 'forgets' to include numbers such as %THD. The utility - a third party - showed a classic UPS sine wave. Maybe a 20% THD. Dirtiest power in the house. And perfectly ideal for all electronics. That is the point repeatedly ignored. Due to superior protection inside electronics, then the 'dirtiest' UPS (or cleaner power from AC mains) is sufficient.

All UPS discussion should end there. Nobody needs a magic box to 'clean' electricity. Because, and by far, the best cleaner inside the house is already inside electronics. Best AVR, line conditioning, etc means even crappiest UPS power is sufficient. Why would anyone spend $1000 for 'cleaner' electricity that is not even needed?

A 240 volt UPS outputting 400 volt square waves with spikes exceeding 500 volts - sufficient and good power for electronics. Again, numbers that come from some UPSes that power electronics without any harm. BEcause electonics already do better AVR, line conditiong, etc.

View spec numbers for protection. Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules. How many joules does that UPS claims to absorb? Hundreds? Again, hundreds is near zero. So many just know by ignoring these numbers. Near zero. That UPS with 'total surge protection' also has near zero protection. Don't take my word for it. Everyone can post each number that defines protection.

And still posts, irrelevant to the OP's original questions, continue because a UPS must do magic to AC electricity. Nonsense. A UPS has one function: temporary and 'dirty' power during a blackout. Why is 'dirtier' power better? Way too complex for some here AND irrelevant to the OP's questions.

When is power output from a UPS cleanest? When a UPS connects AC mains directly to electronics - as demonstrated by left side waveforms from a typical sine wave UPS as provided by a third party, AC electric utility - Duke Energy:
Tech Tip 03 - Indiana Business-Duke Energy

taimoorali007's questions answered by addressing his concern:
Why are so many recommending a UPS when even UPS spec numbers do not exist? Why are so many confusing taimoorali007 with irrelevant recommendations based only in advertising myths? Why are so many UPS recommendations made devoid of any numbers?
I've actually tried not the confuse the issue anymore, and other people are trying to help him figure it out.
But you have no numbers/proof either so telling us we need them in nonsensical when you keep showing us a graph that dictates a standby UPS which is the cheapest thing out on the market.

So forgive me if I ignore your recommendations from now on, because telling me my 19.99 ACBEL AC Adaptor for my Laptop has better line conditioning and AVR than a UPS is as close to B/S as you can get.

So, its been nice talking to you but I think I'm gonna side with those whom are in the industry and have proven tech.

As for the OP, I do hope somehow he can solve his problem. Be it an electrician or what have you.

And on that note, lets now keep this Topic ON topic or I will be locking down the thread. I, made a mistake by trying to routinely argue, and its detracted from this thread far too much.

-ST
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old August 9, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Have you tried hooking up your computer to a different circuit/outlet in another room of your house?

UPS's are always a worthwhile investment for computers.
  #67 (permalink)  
Old August 9, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by taimoorali007 View Post
No, its auto-range from 100v-264v with max input of AC 8Amps
Actual voltage range is 85 to 265 volts. Previous posts from the engineer posted those numbers and said, "the best AVR was already inside the supply". You just gave numbers that say your existing AVR is even better. Ignore posts without numbers. Even your numbers say your supply provides superior AVR (and other functions) that make a UPS redundant (unnecessary).

Your "universal" supply is even more robust. Assuming correct numbers were provided and your supply is a "universal" type, then your computer should work even when incandescent bulbs dim to ... 10% intensity. At what point do you stop ignoring numbers (ie 50% and 10%)? Other answers without numbers mean that recommendation is best ignored. Those with least knowledge posted no numbers. Even you posted numbers that say you already have superior AVR.

If bad power destroyed the Antec, then what will bad power do to a less robust supply inside the UPS? How many damning questions must be asked before you decide to actually address the problem?

Where is that UPS spec number that claims protection? Never posted. Because that UPS recommendation comes from poeple educated only by hearsay, speculation, and advertising. Again, anyone who cannot even post UPS spec numbers is best ignored. You have just posted more useful numbers than anyone who recommended a UPS.

If earth ground is defective, then nothing can avert your problems. Anything else that might provide a solution, first and foremost, assumes earth ground exists, is good, and is connected to all incoming utilities. Not safety ground in a receptacle. Earth ground is a completely different ground.

A 200 watt transmitter connects to a long wire antenna. Touch one part of the wire to feel no voltage. Touch another part to be shocked by over 100 volts. Why zero volts and 100 volts on the same wire? Why would so many not know that and still claim all grounds are same? My god. Start with what is important - earth ground. Even that antenna example demonstrates why different grounds can be electrically different.

Why does code even have completely different Articles (chapters) for safety ground and earth ground? Anyone electrically informed understands why those grounds are different. Also suggests who is making recommendations that you should best ignore. Forget your wiring problems. Your current problem is you have entertained too much wild speculation.

First establish integrity of your earth ground. Nothing useful can be implemented until that is first established. Inspection is a powerful tool. More advise is obtained AFTER defining what existed and what is corrected. Of course, you will not know what to do unless you start asking what is important from the fewer who actually know how electricity works. Important is to define everything connected to that ground, how it is connected, and if other grounds (a code violation) exist - the first step to a solution.
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Old August 9, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Soultribunal View Post
So forgive me if I ignore your recommendations from now on, because telling me my 19.99 ACBEL AC Adaptor for my Laptop has better line conditioning and AVR than a UPS is as close to B/S as you can get.
If you know otherwise, then you have numbers that say so. Meanwhile, your laptop adapter is required to withstand even 1000 volt spikes without damage. What does a UPS do when not in battery backup mode? Connects AC mains directly to the laptop. Where is the protection? Fortunately the laptop supply has and is required to have superior protection.

Meanwhile, does your UPS AVR claim to work on all voltages from 85 to 265 volts? Of course not. Your laptop adaptor does because superior AVR is standard in that AC adaptor. Don't take my word for it. Post the numbers. Where does your UPS spec number claim any voltage from 85 to 265? Wny does a 19.99 adaptor for every laptop do that? Because laptop adaptors are more robust - as demonstrated by numbers.
  #69 (permalink)  
Old August 9, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Something important ; A good UPS will not power on if the ground is missing or faulty.
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Old August 9, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Taim, I hope you can get an electrician in to take a look at your house.

However since there is no more apparent progress of this thread I am closing it.

-ST
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