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Old June 20, 2009, 01:45 PM
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As mentioned, using 220V is only good for a few percentage points efficiency improvement. Granted, you're only pulling half the amperage from the wall, but in either case, the transmission losses are quite negligible. It's the PSU design that has the biggest effect on efficiency these days.

And if you're planning on running a system 24/7, a bigger concern should be the UPS you're hooking everything up to.
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Old June 20, 2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpG View Post
if you're planning on running a system 24/7, a bigger concern should be the UPS you're hooking everything up to.
Ive got the UPS's I have two LARGE ones that both draw 220v and put out 110 and 220

Here is what happened, I started hanging around on this forum, then I decided to fool with cuda, then I started Folding, now I own a few older super computers, my sun machines are cool but I can't fold on them. so ive decided to sell one of them since I dont have enough room and build a PC super folder. my big SUN draws 24a @ 220 so im set power/ups wise..

I have most of my new SUPER FOLDER but im still trying to work out the case and power supplies, I was thinking about a PC/SUN hybrid, PC guts and my SUN Enterprise 3000 case and maybe power supplies. or just going pure PC parts not sure yet...

Ill start a new thread on the build shortly...

Hopefully next week ill have some crazy Folding results...

right now im trying to figure out what power supply/s im going to go with for the final build.
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Old June 20, 2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by burebista View Post
Wrong, if you buy a 1.5kW PSU for a 500W load you may end paying more on electricity than choosing a 750-800W PSU for a 500W load.
That's why you get an 80PLUS power supply.....



So a 700 watt PSU that is 80PLUS certified will be 80% effecient at 140W, 350W and 700W

Chances are the effeciency follows a linear pattern... IE: if it's 80% at 140w, 350w, and 700w then it's reasonable to think that it's pretty damn close all the way across the line, like at 250w and 500w

I think most PSUs now will accept 100 to 240V and adjust accordingly internally.

Last edited by Perineum; June 20, 2009 at 03:30 PM.
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Old June 20, 2009, 03:40 PM
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Let's take 2 PSU's 80+ Bronze certified, Corsair HX850 and Enermax Galaxy Evo 1250.
Looks like at a 500W load Corsair is more efficient than Enermax (~2%, I know but is more).
Anyway 2% at 500W means 10W. Almost nothing.
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Old June 20, 2009, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by burebista View Post
Let's take 2 PSU's 80+ Bronze certified, Corsair HX850 and Enermax Galaxy Evo 1250.
Looks like at a 500W load Corsair is more efficient than Enermax (~2%, I know but is more).
Anyway 2% at 500W means 10W. Almost nothing.

send me 2% of your paycheck each month 2% its almost nothing!

so 10W saving is 7.2KwH a month not much, but its also not pumping a extra 10W of heat into the room and/or case

so say ill only save 20-30W so now its 14.4 - 21.6 KwH still not much but its something so I may as well plan for it.
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Old June 20, 2009, 05:59 PM
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send me 2% of your paycheck each month 2% its almost nothing!

so 10W saving is 7.2KwH a month not much, but its also not pumping a extra 10W of heat into the room and/or case

so say ill only save 20-30W so now its 14.4 - 21.6 KwH still not much but its something so I may as well plan for it.
And how much do you pay per kWh?

With Toronto Hydro, the most I pay is 9.1 cents during peak hours, 7.6c at mid-peak, 4.2 at off-peak. So that means a savings of under $2 a month. Yet to buy the more efficient PSU, it's probably going to cost a fair amount more. Meaning that it will take quite a few years to pay off the additional entry cost.

You'd be better off flicking the lights off more often and unplugging things entirely when not in use. That would cost you $0, yet you'd probably save more than $2.

I'm just saying, as long as a PSU is 80Plus certified, I don't really see the need to get too concerned about it. Unless of course you pay a ton for electricity, in which case every % would be more significant. However if that is the case, you'd probably be best off installing some solar panels or something.

Last edited by JD; June 20, 2009 at 08:27 PM.
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Old June 20, 2009, 06:26 PM
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so if we take the average of your power cost 7c per KwH

7.2 would turn into $6 a year 14.4 $12 and 21.6 $18

so thats not too bad, but if I choose a crummy power supply and over/under drive it we are starting to talk about allot more $$$
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Old June 20, 2009, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fefox View Post
so if we take the average of your power cost 7c per KwH

7.2 would turn into $6 a year 14.4 $12 and 21.6 $18

so thats not too bad, but if I choose a crummy power supply and over/under drive it we are starting to talk about allot more $$$
Not overly significant though IMO. And I believe there's more off-peak hours so averaging doesn't quite work. But it's probably different in Manitoba.

I find once you get over the 80Plus and move to 80Plus Silver/Gold, you pay far more money for the slight bump in efficiency. I just think that the additional cost isn't really worth it, but it guess it'll eventually balance out.
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Old September 24, 2009, 12:31 PM
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Unless of course you pay a ton for electricity, in which case every % would be more significant. However if that is the case, you'd probably be best off installing some solar panels or something.
I'm actually thinking of doing this. Really. Right now my uncle and I are going to measure the peak draws when we load both PC's.... to find out how many Panels we'd need.

I think a 150-200w panel and a decent amount of batery storage should do the trick to run our entire office... I would think..../hope... if not, have enough juice to run the two computers.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old September 24, 2009, 01:26 PM
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I'd be suprised if that was going to do the trick.
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