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Old October 4, 2013, 11:01 AM
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This spurred me to look up how capacitors work, and what role they play in a circuit. Read some interesting things about microFarrads, and DC current blocking, etc.
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Old October 4, 2013, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by great_big_abyss View Post
So, ALL caps should have a rated voltage and capacitance on them? When replacing I'm assuming those are the two numbers you want to match?

I'm unclear as to how you determine the positive and negative holes on the board. The wording confused me...
You need to match them for best results, depending on how the cap is being used you can sometimes bump it up to the next higher voltage or capacitance. You'll also want to look at lead spacing as well as overall diameter and length to that it can physically fit.

You'll note that one lead of the capacitor is longer than the other, this always goes into the square hole. There is also a contrasting band possibly with a - sign in it, this goes to the round hole which will most often have an indicator on the boards silkscreen as shown on the original posters pics. The band is always the negative with electrolytic capacitors. Tantalum capacitors have a band for the positive side, I've seen more than one person put these on backwards and have them explode.
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Old October 4, 2013, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_BenD_over View Post
You need to match them for best results, depending on how the cap is being used you can sometimes bump it up to the next higher voltage or capacitance. You'll also want to look at lead spacing as well as overall diameter and length to that it can physically fit.

You'll note that one lead of the capacitor is longer than the other, this always goes into the square hole. There is also a contrasting band possibly with a - sign in it, this goes to the round hole which will most often have an indicator on the boards silkscreen as shown on the original posters pics. The band is always the negative with electrolytic capacitors. Tantalum capacitors have a band for the positive side, I've seen more than one person put these on backwards and have them explode.
ok so the long one goes into the sqaur hole geeze I didn't even notice that there was a square hole
next time I will look for that
good information there
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Old October 4, 2013, 02:48 PM
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Well, the hole is still round hole for the wire, but the overal layout look on the PCB is square.

Nevermind, don't look for the small things - almost all mainboards, GFX cards and PSUs and LCDs I ever come to touch have the place for the negative wire out of the cap with white stripp, as on the cap. This is perfectly visible there:
http://s9.postimg.org/4e1p2pnkv/recap_guide_2.jpg
See? White strip for negative and the PCB is strafed white too.

And for each cap, as you can see there:
http://s14.postimg.org/6mreni3ox/recap_guide_3.jpg

Mostly it is completely white:
http://s9.postimg.org/n4ykfrbtr/dental_pick_trick_2.jpg

...so you can never miss! (but once I did come across a card, that had it reversed, lol.


As for what caps are good caps, then... there was a huge discussion about it on the BadCaps forum, and the people there come to conclusion that this is the list of known bad caps:

Arcon
Asiacon
Asia-x
Canicon
Capxon
Chemicon KZG, KZJ, TMV, TMZ
Chhsi
Choyo
CTC
DST
Elgen
Fuh Yin
Fuhjyyu
Fujitsu
Gloria
G-Luxon
GL
GSC = Evercon = Sacon = Apsun
Hec = Fulltec
Hermei
I.Q.
Jackcon
Jamicon
JDEC
Jee
Jpcon
Jun Fu
Lelon
Ltec
Licon
Nkcon
Nrsy
OST
Partsnic
JPce-tur/Pce-tur
Raycon
Rubysun
Rulycon
Skywell
Stone
Supacon
Su'scon
Taicon
Tayeh
Teapo
TMS
Tocon
Vent
Wendell
Yec
Y.C

But because the China makers change their names frequently, you can never know. Also there are many fake caps. They try to impersonate (sometimes with serious faults, such as - no Nichicon caz has gold markings, except a HZ line, so a HN/HM line with gold markins = clear fail ... yet Apple put these in their PowerMac premium products!) know good caps, etc.

In my rule of thumb I go with this - if capacitor is not from Rubycon, Nichicon, Samxon or Panasonic - for huge filtering caps are good Hitachi caps and for audio Elna caps, but that it is - then it is presumably a bad cap.

Good news is, that even PSUs full of bad caps (legandary Fortron FSP300-60PN is full of known bad caps - Teapos) could have a long life and good performance, if the design is not cheapo - and Fortron never skip a coil or so in this PSU, so it live long, even with bad caps. Teapo caps are also the better of the bad ones.

But eventually all these bad caps fail miserably.


Normal quality cap is guaranted to stand 2000h withing the specs. That is not much, as 10h a day = 3650h per year. However the catch is, that the hours come with the temperature. For 105C the cap stays alive only for 2000h - but what if the temperature is lower? Then by each 10C the lifespam get multiplied by 2! That means:

105C - 2 000h
95C - 4 000h
85C - 8 000h
75C - 16 000h
65C - 32 000h
55C - 64 000h
45C - 128 000h = 14,6 years of nonstop run
(that is Rubycon numbers, very much valid for all elyte caps, except bad ones: http://rubycon.co.jp/en/products/alumi/pdf/Life.pdf )

Of course, if you cap has ratings for 85C, then the lifetime is MUCH shorter, yet still reasonable.
Even most polymer caps are rated to 2000h, so only time will tell, what happen :)

Hope that helped out a bit.
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Old October 4, 2013, 03:23 PM
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I like this thread. It's golden information. Trodas, where has your well of untapped information been all this time?
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Old October 7, 2013, 06:47 AM
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Thank you, GBA :) Well, dunno... locked away? Or just waiting for caps? That is what it mostly is the problem for me. No caps to play with :D

(plenty of old HW donated for free to fix, but nothing to stick it it, mostly - so, I quess I should be looking for some caps-sponsor )

But I hope I can pass some knowledge too. Some people like to use solder wick to extract the solder from the joints, check this out:
Removal of Solder Using Solder Wick - YouTube
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