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Old December 25, 2009, 10:26 PM
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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction
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Old January 4, 2010, 06:29 AM
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Can anyone comment on the quality of "memtest+ ver. 4.0"?
Memtest+ 4.0 is reporting my 667Mushkin Ram running error free after 2 passes @ 1000mhz. Yeah its seeming almost too easy at this point.

Can anyone recomend a good method for testing ram stability?

ALSO at IDLE my cpu cores are 10c different in temperature according to CPU-Z (I just installed a trial version of Windows 7 - 64bit which I just installed).
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Old January 8, 2010, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mattydies View Post
Can anyone comment on the quality of "memtest+ ver. 4.0"?
Memtest+ 4.0 is reporting my 667Mushkin Ram running error free after 2 passes @ 1000mhz. Yeah its seeming almost too easy at this point.

Can anyone recomend a good method for testing ram stability?

ALSO at IDLE my cpu cores are 10c different in temperature according to CPU-Z (I just installed a trial version of Windows 7 - 64bit which I just installed).

Sounds like they are some D9 Ics
My old ram with DPs did very well 1000 @ 4-4-4-12
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Old March 26, 2013, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ||Console|| View Post
Sounds like they are some D9 Ics
My old ram with DPs did very well 1000 @ 4-4-4-12
I wish I would have OC'd my ram on my good board to see what it would do. I still have that ram (as it is not really worth selling 2X1GB of 667) but no board in which to use it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by enaberif View Post
4ghz on a e8400 is nothing to brag about

4.5+ is
I was running 4.5GHz STABLE on Air Cooling before a roque replacement PSU destroyed most of the PC I had used some newer ram @1066 and lowered my multiplyer from 9 to 8.5. I never did try to push it further as I was well past the point of limiting returns, and I was on air cooling.

I'm onto a Socket 2011 mobo. My 3820 Cpu is rated at 130W TDP. My E8400 was 65W TDP. So I switched from Air cooling to Liquid cooling and a car radiator
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Old March 26, 2013, 07:06 PM
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car rads work fine but there a bit large. I got a single 140mm and a 200mm rads in a prodigy temps peak at 70 c on a 3770K 4.65 Ghz.
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Old March 27, 2013, 12:18 AM
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Truth be told the current rig is up and running, but the water cooling is not. Soon my precious.... SOOOooonnn....

I like being different and I hope I will not need a fan on the rad (to be a bit quieter). Worst case I put a fan on it. I need to buy a pump and waterblock. If I had to spend $100+ on the rad I do not think I would be using liquid cooling soon. I installed a $20 Air cooler in the mean time.

I just realized last night how old the rad is. It is over 10 years old! It was removed from a 86 Nisan 200SX (2.0L) after 6 months of use when I scrapped the car. As if I hung on to it so long. IT was used for like 6 months before I scrapped the car, maybe less so it is VERY clean. It's brass. I am actually planning to modify my case more. Making it longer, so I do not have to F#@K around with moving hard drives out of the way of my video card. I want to make it long enough to handle anything. Say a 14" or 15" GPU? If I am modding it instead of replacing it I may as well future proof! I need to post some LONG overdue updates and pictures to my build thread and then I will post the link here.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...d-g-stack.html
I am FINALLY updating my current build log as I type this. ^
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Old March 27, 2013, 06:53 AM
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I could be wrong but I always thought that using a car rad wasn't optimal because of the way they were designed. Designed for massive heat loads but dissipating it with fast moving coolant and very high speed, high CFM fans. Other than that, car rads don't dissipate heat all that well for computer use, or at least no better than a normal designed for computer use rad, but can't find the thread about it that I remember reading. Good luck, can't wait to see how it works out.
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Old March 27, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasparthe View Post
I could be wrong but I always thought that using a car rad wasn't optimal because of the way they were designed. Designed for massive heat loads but dissipating it with fast moving coolant and very high speed, high CFM fans. Other than that, car rads don't dissipate heat all that well for computer use, or at least no better than a normal designed for computer use rad, but can't find the thread about it that I remember reading. Good luck, can't wait to see how it works out.
Thanks for your input and the well wishing. My new build will be my first go on liquid cooling. I FEEL I basically hit the PRACTICLE limits of air cooling last time around. I know a trememndous ammount about cars, but little about Computer Liquid cooling. The general theories are sure to be similar but execution may be different.

The car ras is MASSSSSSIVE. IT has a HUUUUUUGE Fin Surface area. IT has a larger capacity and the way I am designing my system (and connections) the top portion of the rad will act as a 1L RES! Worst case I am sure the rad will be fine if I add fans but I doubt I will need to add even a single fan.
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