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Old February 22, 2009, 12:06 PM
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Default First Overclock, at 3.82GHz (E8400)

Hai.

I've overclocked my E8400 on the Gigabyte EP45-UD3R Mobo, I've got a ZALMAN cnps9700 LED (orange one :P) with 4GBs (2x2) of G.Skill 1066MHz (PC28500) RAM to 3.6GHz stable, and now to 3.82GHz. I am not completely stable and got think 149/150 tests completed on IntelBurnTest. I'm not sure if this is "close enough", but IntelBurnTest rated the test as failed, so I am still going at it.

E8400 runs stock 3GHz with a multiplier of 9x. I've got the NZXT Guardian 921 case and three case fans and a pretty cool GTX 260 running at 70% fan speed over the 45% stock, so it's pretty cool, alot cooler than my HD3870 running at 90c stock. :)

Here's my BIOS settings, please let me know if anything should be changed because I haven't done this before, but I think I've got a relatively good grasp on overclocking.
__________________________________________________ ____

Robust Graphics Booster [Auto]
CPU Clock Ratio [9x]
CPU Clock Ratio +0.0
CPU Frequency 3.82GHz [425x9]

****** Clock Chip Control ******
Standard Clock Control
CPU Host Clock Control [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency [425]
PCI Express Frequency [100]
C.I.A.2 [Disabled]
*//What the heck is C.I.A.2 anyway??/*

>>>>>>Advanced Clock Control
> Advanded Clock Control [Press Enter]

****** DRAM Performance Control ******
Performance Enhance [Standard] //*(was Turbo)*/
Extreme Memory Profile(X.M.P.) [Auto]
(G)MCH Frequency Latch [Auto]
System Memory Multiplier [2.00D]
Memory frequency (MHz) 1066 850
DRAM Timing Selectable(SPD) [Auto]
>>>>>>Standard Timing Control
X CAS Latency Time 5 (5-5-5-15)
X tRCD
X tRP
X tRAS
>>>>>> Advanced Timing Control
> Advanced Timing Control [Press Enter]

****** Mother Board Voltage Control ******
Voltage Types Normal Current
-----------------------------------------------
Load-Line Calibration [Disabled]
CPU vCore 1.25000v [1.36250v]
CPU Termination 1.200v [1.420v]
CPU PLL 1.500v [ Auto ]
CPU Reference 0.760v [ Auto ]
>>>MCH/ICH
MCH Core 1.100v [ 1.300v]
MCH Reference 0.760v [ Auto ]
MCH/DRAM Reference 0.900v[1.010v]
ICH I/O 1.500v [1.610v]
ICH Core 1.100v [1.200v]
>>> DRAM
DRAM Voltage 1.800v [2.080v]

//*2.100v is a purple / pink text, and the RAM says 2.0-2.1v, so I just set it to 2.08v *//
__________________________________________________ ____________

So there's my BIOS, the //*__*// aren't in the BIOS of course.

What's the Load-Line Calibration and Robust Graphics booster? I've seen people suggesting changing the Graphics booster, but if it's for the GPU, what's it have to do with the rest of the PC? :help:

I thought I'd be able to get farther than 3.8GHz :(. Does anyone have any suggestions that may be able to get me to 4GHz and beyond? I think an E8500 would have been a better choice huh? I wish I'd known about the multiplier sooner, it was only $15 more D:

I don't suppose NCIX would take back an overclocked CPU eh?
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:13 PM
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I'd recommend dropping the cpu multi to 8, and going for 500FSB for your 4ghz...will be much easier. Run the ram 1:1 to the FSB...the multi isn't your issue...I have been running 1.45v into my E8400 on the same cooler for a few months now, without issue...well, besides the fan noise...so don't be afraid to give it a wee bit more juice...
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca View Post
I'd recommend dropping the cpu multi to 8, and going for 500FSB for your 4ghz...will be much easier. Run the ram 1:1 to the FSB...the multi isn't your issue...I have been running 1.45v into my E8400 on the same cooler for a few months now, without issue...well, besides the fan noise...so don't be afraid to give it a wee bit more juice...
Thanks a ton!

But wow, 1.45v? When I ran at 1.4v I was at 66c full load, isn't 1.45c going to make my PC explode?

D:
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:23 PM
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First, I suggest you remove the cooler, remove the fan holder from the cooler(two screws), and slather thermal gunk over the pipes, then re-assemble the cooler. I get ~60c in Prime95 by doing this...lost almost 10c doing that...

Personally, 70c is ok, although I'm sure many will chime in and say it's too high...I'm not worried about having to replace my cpu though.

Also, if you have a place to put a fan blowing at the back of the mobo, this will lower temps another 3c-8c, both on cpu and chipset.
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:33 PM
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Don't use the Intel Burn Test. Many people don't like it, and neither do I. Use OCCT and use the Large option, and stress test for 2 hours. Afterwards run Memtest test #5 to make sure your memory is stable.

Use Core Temp to find out what your max temps are. I would keep them under 65C as a safe zone.

The Load Line Calibration is used to control the vdroop I believe. A quick google search should answer that question.
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca View Post
First, I suggest you remove the cooler, remove the fan holder from the cooler(two screws), and slather thermal gunk over the pipes, then re-assemble the cooler. I get ~60c in Prime95 by doing this...lost almost 10c doing that...

Personally, 70c is ok, although I'm sure many will chime in and say it's too high...I'm not worried about having to replace my cpu though.

Also, if you have a place to put a fan blowing at the back of the mobo, this will lower temps another 3c-8c, both on cpu and chipset.
Thanks for the advice, but I don't think I have the time for that now, any suggestions for the 3.82GHz I am at now?
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Old February 22, 2009, 12:44 PM
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Yes...cpu termination is far too high. you should be able to use the stock 1.2v. ICH I/O and Core should NOT need any increase.


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Old February 22, 2009, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca View Post
Also, if you have a place to put a fan blowing at the back of the mobo, this will lower temps another 3c-8c, both on cpu and chipset.
No, my case has a metal plate under the mobo lol. My previous case was open though :P.

I could probably cut a square out of the case and glue a case fan to the right side panel.

But then I'd have a big hole in my case D:

I used Arctic Silver 5 on the CPU, but I had to use it twice because I had to remove the HSF because it was bent up, so I just bent it the other way and that fixed it, so I have a little bit of Arctic Silver, but I also have some Zalman thermal compound that came with the HSF. That'd probably work pretty good since it even has a brush lol.

So would I just brush the Zalman Thermal Grease on the pipes near the bottom of the HSF?



I highlighted what I think you mean in blue. Those are the pipes I assume :D.

Last edited by Featherawr; February 22, 2009 at 05:23 PM.
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Old February 22, 2009, 05:17 PM
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Well, you see the two screws that hold teh fan? opposite those are screws that hold the baseplate(copper) to the top plate(aluminium). Pull that apart and put some standard silicon paste in there(on the heatpipes between the two plates), or some artic silver ceramique...not the grey artic silver, as if too thick, it acts as an insulator. When you pull it apart, you'll see how little of those heatpipes actually contacts the base...


Many cases are now coming with holes for fans that will cool the backside of the mobo...CM690, a couple thermatake cases...silverstone cases that have fans in teh middle, or a fan bracket cool there as well. If fan arrangement is done well, you'll almosyt have teh same temps as a caseless build...


Oh, and here's a link about CIA2, since you asked in the original post...

CIA2
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Old February 22, 2009, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca View Post
Well, you see the two screws that hold teh fan? opposite those are screws that hold the baseplate(copper) to the top plate(aluminium). Pull that apart and put some standard silicon paste in there(on the heatpipes between the two plates), or some artic silver ceramique...not the grey artic silver, as if too thick, it acts as an insulator. When you pull it apart, you'll see how little of those heatpipes actually contacts the base...


Many cases are now coming with holes for fans that will cool the backside of the mobo...CM690, a couple thermatake cases...silverstone cases that have fans in teh middle, or a fan bracket cool there as well. If fan arrangement is done well, you'll almosyt have teh same temps as a caseless build...


Oh, and here's a link about CIA2, since you asked in the original post...

CIA2
Oooh, I see what you mean now. I was having problems with the fan and tried unscrewing those, my fat screw driver had quite a bit of trouble getting in there :| I'll try that sometime though.

And thanks for the guide! :D

My main reason for doing this is so I can load a really low-end game extremely fast, I have a friend with an i7 who barely sees the loading screen :P. The game only runs one core since it's so old xD. I wish I could OC only one core :P.

I'm running OCCT right now at 3.83GHz, and it is tons better than IntelBurnTest xD. What do I do when the two hours are up? If I don't bluescreen or restart, does that mean I win? =S

Last edited by Featherawr; February 22, 2009 at 05:31 PM.
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