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-   -   EVGA DARK + Car Radiator (Renamed) (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/new-builds/58478-evga-dark-car-radiator-renamed.html)

mattydies December 11, 2012 12:23 PM

EVGA DARK + Car Radiator (Renamed)
"No N!GG@. It's like 'A Tribe Called Quest' You gotta say the whole thing!" A Pimp Named Slickback - Boondocks. I figure my 'new' pc will cost about a Grand and be quite pimpin' hence the working name "A Pimp Named G-Stack".

This build is to replace / rebuild my previous PC. I foolishly installed a cheap PSU my brother gave me in an attempt to save a few bucks. I should have known better. The Wattage was enough but the 600W Ultra PSU had 2 non working fans (which I found out after the catastrophe). I finally realized if I dropped my CPU multiplier from 9 to 8.5 I could work around the issue of needing to overclock my ram to run faster than 4.2 GHz. I am I hit 4.5GHz ON AIR. 100% stable. Great mobo and a SUPERB CPU. Then 3 or 5 days later BAM! The PSU grenaded my PC.

My Soundblaster Audigy 4 PRO (with the sexy external box with more DACS n what not) SURVIVED.
My 6870 windforce Video card is under warranty and being sent out for an RMA.
I have not tested my HDD's or my fan controller yet. I have not been in a rush.
I have not been able to test my RAM (I have two old & cheap 775 boards, but they cant use the 2gig modules or 1066mhz). MOBO, CPU are dead. My Antec 900 case has given me admirable performance. As you would expect the case is fine. I don't even think she is aware of what happened!

So I managed to salvage my awesome sound card. I am fanatical about sound quality (mostly music).
I hope to have a new GPU under warranty. HDD's and fan controller may be ok.

I knew I wanted a nice Mobo. I thoroughly enjoyed overclocking my E8400. This will be my 3rd PC build. In college I used a $50 ECS mobo. Treated me great. I OC'd my ram quite well, but it could not do the CPU at all (despite claims otherwise). The next PC the E8400 rig that was recently murdered I went with a Gigabyte UD3 board shortly after they came out. GREAT reviews and I know enough about electricity and amplifiers to appreciate the quality mosfet chips and the double copper power and ground layers. I knew wanted to buy a new Gigabyte Mobo.

I was checking out different CPU's and realized most of the I7's are for socket 1155 but 4? are for Socket 2011. So I got reading up on the differences and I liked the idea of Socket 2011 with futureproofing in mind. PErhaps in 2 - 5 years I will want to buy a GPU or two that would be bandwidth limited on PCIE 2.0 X16. Also It seems to me as if the 1155 will cease having new chips made before the 2011 does. I realize for gaming and my everyday use my rig will likely be a touch slower than a comparable 1155 (since I don't use anything to my knowledge that appreciates multitasking).

*Mommy - Gigabyte ASSASSIN2*
My decision to go socket 2011 was made final when I came across some parts bigFOIG was selling. I decided to purchase the Gigabyte Assassin2 for $200 shipped.
The mobo has a nice Sound Blaster audio chip on board. The irony is I am installing a better card.
The mobo has a Bigfoot 2100 network chip. I BARELY do any online gaming so I may see no bennefit.
The gun on the board looks kinda cheesy but I suspect it will grow on me.
The mobo ONLY has 3 PCIe GPU slots, but I have only ever used 1 GPU.
Considering I paid $200 the mobo should do an excellent job of maintaining it's value.

*New PSU - Antec TPQ-1200 OC*
A few weeks prior I had been looking for a new PSU. I ended up finding a slick deal at NCIX. An Antec True Power Quattro 1200 for $129. The reviews on various sights looked good to me. More power and cables than I will likely ever use, 5 year warranty and the cables are LONG. I know I could have got a GREAT power supply for say 70 - 90 bucks, but after the incident with the last one it was pretty easy for me to splurge a bit. When I recieved the package I got a pleasent surprise! They sent me the OC edition. 2 dials on the back. 1 for fan speed, and 1 to adjust the 12V output (fine tune the 12V voltage). I do wish the dials were shrouded or they were recessed inside hte case and required a screw driver to adjust. I'm sure this won't cause me any issues, but if a novice ended up with it as a FREE UPGRADE it may be a different story.

*RAM IT IN - 4X4GB Mushkin 2400MHz.*
I have used two different sets of ram in previous builds. My first build had 2X1GB Mushkin 667-4-4-4-10. Using the $50 ECS MOBO I was running 820-3-4-3-10! Plus lifetime warranty? I fell in love. My recent PC used some 2X2GB Patriot Viper Ram 1066-5-5-5-15 I bought used from a friend. I added 2 more sticks a week before the PC died. The Viper's performed admirably though I never tried to OC as my focus was on the CPU OC and I could not 'REALLY' adjust them separately like my old ECS mobo.

I was looking around debating between 4X4GB 2133 or 1600 with tighter timings and lower price, OR going with 4X8GB 1600. I've read 32GB is super over kill. I had 4GB for the longest time so I would almost expect this. BUT ram is CHEAP! Future proofing, AND I like the idea of having 500,000 times more ram than my first computer (a used Commadore 64). 500,000 times more ram. It's kind of mind blowing.

I saw many nice options and was leaning to Some Patriot RAM, but I wanted to buy MUSHKIN again. I am not expecting similar performance improvements when OC'ing. It is unrealistic. ALSO it from an age when there were a few DDR2 modules that could OC INSANE compared to rated speeds. IT seems most online retailers do not have many offerings from Mushkin and I could not find any 1600 or faster Mushkin 8GB sticks. I checked Mushkins website and saw a nice variety of products available. I decided to hit up E-Bay. Lots of Mushkin on there. I was going through and eventually saw some 2400mhz stuff. I was intrigued. I ended up buying 2 kits of 2X4GB 2400MHz @ 10-12-12-28 1.65V. The price? $150 shipped! I was likely going to spend that for 32GB of 1600 so I figured why not!

The seller has a FANTASTIC reputation. They had 10 for sale. I bought the last two. If they had any left I would have posted a message right away to let other HC users know!

mattydies December 11, 2012 01:43 PM

So far I have spent $200 MOBO, $150 RAM, $130 PSU. About $500 so far and she is shaping up quite nicely! I will be reusing my Audigy 4 PRO. Hopefully I can reuse my 4X160GB Raptors &Scythe Fan Controller, Noctua 120's, DVD Burner. I was thinking of buying a new case but I will be spending too much money on everything else. No biggy, I can paint the inside of my Antec 900 to spruce it up.

I have not decided between a 3820 or a 3930k. I am leaning to the 3820 as I can still OC and for what I do I will likely not see a bennefit of 50% more cores and cache. Fully unlocked is cool, but for nearly double the price I am pretty sure I will rock a 3820 for now. My E8400 did fantastic on Air. Im sure I had an amazing CPU due to its high OC on air. But she was running hot. She had a TDP of 65W. A 3820 has a TDP of 130W. I think I want to go with water cooling this time around.

I've read some good things on the XSPC Raystorm water block. It seems to have great performance and a great price!

XSPC Raystorm LGA1155/1366/1156/2011/775 CPU Water Block G1/4 Threads Copper w/ Blue LED - Black

I have grown to enjoy a quiet PC. This seems like a great with PLENTY of headroom in case my water loop grows AND it has a speed controller! I have seen a few people use dual pumps in series in case of failure, but I should be able to set my BIOS to handle PLAN B (though I may add another one in the future for extra protection).

Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 1/2IN Barbs

My case fans are all Noctua and attached to a speed controller. She will be a quiet machine, especially when you see my RAD of choice!

Right now the plan is to use an AC Condenser out of my E36 BMW. The AC does not work (no pressure in the lines) and the front bumper is removed for repairs. It will take 10 minutes to unbolt and hack two rubber lines. I'm well aware how AC systems work, and the charge has been depleted. There is no R134a to leak out. I posted about running a MASSIVE fanless ran a while ago. I was pointed to one of SQUEETARD's builds.

Why do I want to do this? Reasons are listed in descending order of importance
1 I'M CHEAP! If I had to buy a rad I would not be using water cooling. $300 (pump, block, rad, fittings, etc) would be too much for me to swallow right now.
2 - QUIET. As time goes on I am appreciating a quiet room (or rather a lack of ambient noise) more and more.
3 - If I find the Rad is not able to keep my system cool enough when I OC I can easily add a fan!
4 - It seems neat to me. I like being different.

I've come to terms with the financially devastating failure of my old PSU & I am now very excited for the new build! I will add a few pictures tonight or tomorrow.

nasrott December 16, 2012 09:14 AM

Remember years ago guys using the whole garage floor as a radiator and had it piped in copper tubing runs (alot of them) and exchanged into the air idea, (expensive), Another guy had a guy dig a 6 ft hole (or more, he was in a wheel chair giving the orders to dig deeper) and set a 45 gallon drum in the ground and used the ground to cool his loop. Not sure if anyone remembers that water cooling site in the UK, forget it name? Guys were pretty crazy about completely quiet puters. Think they even had some pics of the puter encased in foam, cdrom working and and one air hole. Also remember the shower head into the 4'' clear pvc water fall with fine spray air cooling the loop that way....

Hooded January 6, 2013 07:21 AM

Looks like a great start to your build.
Noticed that your shopping for your Water Cooling parts at NCIX. You will get better prices and delivery from DazMode.
Just getting a Daz Mode branded Lainge D5 pump will save you $20 and another $10 on the Raystorm.

bigFOIG January 6, 2013 07:56 PM

I better see some pics of everything (including my board) soon!

xmanrigger January 31, 2013 10:47 AM


Originally Posted by Hooded (Post 682482)
Looks like a great start to your build.
Noticed that your shopping for your Water Cooling parts at NCIX. You will get better prices and delivery from DazMode.
Just getting a Daz Mode branded Lainge D5 pump will save you $20 and another $10 on the Raystorm.

Although DAZ has decent shipping times, he is not faster than ncix for shipping. I order from both and ncix wins every time. Depends on where you are. I am in BC. Plus, with DAZ, you cant always trust his pics for descriptions of products. I ordered some case screws along with some w/c parts. I ordered the screws because in the picture, the were the same as the ones I had, and needed more of them. Well, when they arrived, they were completely different. Daz's reply was "I just took the pic from the internet".
With that said, everything else I have ordered from DAZ was as ordered. He does answer emails in a timely manner also. I just wish he would keep better stock of Watercool blocks. It sucks getting burned at the border. Not trashing DAZ, just sharing another view point. Props to him.

mattydies March 27, 2013 12:33 AM


Originally Posted by bigFOIG (Post 682678)
I better see some pics of everything (including my board) soon!

Whether building a rig, buying or selling on the forum, or sending his goons to rough you up so that you make things right KEVIN IS SERIOUS!!!


Originally Posted by Hooded (Post 682482)
Looks like a great start to your build.
Noticed that your shopping for your Water Cooling parts at NCIX. You will get better prices and delivery from DazMode.
Just getting a Daz Mode branded Lainge D5 pump will save you $20 and another $10 on the Raystorm.

Tank-you, thank-you, THANK-YOU! It looks like I will order from DAZ.

As with nearly all of my projects they take longer than expected (mostly procrastination) & they run over budget. When I do finish a project it is well worth the time, effort and price of admission!

I will (FINALLY) be posting some pics tonight.

mattydies March 27, 2013 11:09 AM

I tried adding pictures early this morning and found out I need to host them else where. So I did. I will be adding some new pics tonight (in addition to these).


The AC Condenser is DESTROYED! But I have a Brass Rad from an 86 Nissan 200SX. I installed the rad less than 6 months before scrapping the car. It turns out I have had this rad sitting around for OVER A DECADE :whistle: I'm a bit of a pack rat if I think I can use things. The rad is brass and VERY clean. Computers Cooled by MODINE!


The case is an Antec 900. Priming is partially done. All holes hole were but by the previous owner of the case - a friend of mine. Edges of the new holes were rough (due to his lack of tools). He used duct tape to protect the edges. This bottom hole was the home of a small RAD at one time.


I could have done without the hole on the bottom, but I will make use of it anyway. I am glad to have the other holes he cut. I have since squared up the holes a bit and filed the edges clean. You can even see some 'Barel Distortion' due to my Wide Angle Lens on my old Coolpix 950. Some pics I took with the Nikon, some I was lazy and just pulled my phone out of my pocket.


I cut the rear grill out and cleaned it up a touch. It looks different and I think it looks kinda neat. Pics will follow tonight showing this and other things.

I decided to remove the top 140MM fan and replace it with 2 Noctua 120's. A single 120 Noctua NF12P has the same Airflow rating and about same noise rating (If I recall). These two fans should do a FANTASTIC job of cooling my ram and VRM's on the Mobo.


I have an 8 Port Hub or Switch. Are they the same? It's not a router. IT's 10/100 but I do not transfer stuff over a network, so I am ok without Gigabit. I decided to integrate this into my case. I need to figure out how to add a PROPER resister to a 12V source to drop it to 9V, so I can ditch the little Power adapter. I will explain this ^ masacre with the new pics tonight.

I mixed something up when I installed Windows. My computer is speaking French to me. It has been interesting to see websites nottice this, and even some VIDEO popup ads. I will spell check my post tonight too. I gave it a quick proof read in the mean time.

mattydies August 15, 2013 04:24 PM

I will spare you guys the details but the project has been on hold for a while.
I am FINALLY... FINALLY resuming my build. But there has been at least 1 notable change. I have an EVGA DARK motherboard en route ;)

mattydies August 27, 2013 03:18 AM

Well my initial impression of the DARK mobo is that she LOVES to overclock. I should have no problem hitting over 5.0GHz on water. It appears it is FINALLY time to order the parts for water cooling! I reused the old thermal paste temporarily. Just played a bit seeing what the board would post at n such. Then back to stock for Windows install n what not.

It seems my 3820 CPU is fine. I guess it was the mobo that quit (I did have a couple of voltages pushed to the Assassin2's limit, but with plenty of cooling). It seems some of the voltages I upped did not need to be changed. The CPU should be able to take it fine but I should have been more weary when the old mobo would not let me push the voltages farther. I suppose touching the 'redline' is one thing but riding it is bad. I forget which voltages, but they were obscure and unneeded unless I was shooting for the moon with my OC. As it turns out (no surprise if I had done more homework) the Assassin2 can OC decently but has built in limitations which should happen before the CPU tops out or the boards voltages are maxed out.

Also where did I put my thermal grease? I misplaced it when I re-arranged my place recently. I was so anxious to try her out I remounted with the existing grease on my CPU and air cooler. Yeah I know how bad of an idea this is, but she is running stock timings and only doing web surfing / other LIGHT duty work - while I monitor my temps of course.

Time to finalize my choice of parts and order them (it may be some now, some later $$$$). Also I have MUCH reading to do about water cooling as this will be my first time. :bananafunky:

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