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  #11 (permalink)  
Old January 8, 2010, 12:26 PM
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You would be fine if you were using one of the new 500W Liberty units. However, your old one will not cut the mustard. A good 500W PSU is plenty for you since you're only running a single GPU that isn't too power-hungry, so take a look at units like the Seasonic SS-500ET, Antec Earthwatts 500W and Truepower New 550W, Corsair VX550 and HX520, etc.
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Old January 8, 2010, 12:52 PM
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without ageing it give me 435 watts.
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Old January 8, 2010, 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the links! Very interesting.

However, both links lead to very, very similar pages....?

For me, with no aging, it gives me 422W. Given the age of the current power supply it is a lost cause. Time for a new power supply.
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Old January 8, 2010, 05:45 PM
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Keep in mind that even the best PSU calculator is usually pretty far off the mark. You won't see quite that much power usage with your PC, and a good new ~500W unit like the ones I recommended earlier would be plenty.
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Old January 8, 2010, 05:48 PM
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of course a system don't work full load all the time. ( a side the F@H ) it's why they have the option to adjust the load. by default it's 90 % , they are good if you know how to use it,
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Old January 8, 2010, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkOne View Post
of course a system don't work full load all the time. ( a side the F@H ) it's why they have the option to adjust the load. by default it's 90 % , they are good if you know how to use it,
Even with F@H, you will not take 100% advantage of all the PC's power since the program is not efficient enough to do so. However, despite that fact, PSU calculators are still not especially accurate no matter what the situation. They're the best you can get if you don't know how much power different PC components actually consume, but you can make much more accurate estimations by doing a little research.
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Old January 8, 2010, 06:20 PM
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The new chips are more sensitve to bad power and 80 + means better power. If you are going to overclock you need even better power and stable power 80 + silver certified 750 minimum I would think.

Buy fore sure a battery back up UPS fore protection from line power nastys and crashs.
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Old January 8, 2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZLEE View Post
The new chips are more sensitve to bad power and 80 + means better power.
80Plus has nothing to do with the quality of power that a PSU supplies (as is evidenced by the numerous 80Plus-certified units with high ripple and poor voltage regulation). It is a guarantee of efficiency at loads above 20%, and nothing more.
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Old January 9, 2010, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkOne View Post
of course a system don't work full load all the time. ( a side the F@H ) it's why they have the option to adjust the load. by default it's 90 % , they are good if you know how to use it,
Sound like the same as my DJ setup. I have a rated 1,820 watts (2 NX55P tops @ 550W ea, 1 LS720 sub @ 720W) of audio power, but when I run the system through a power meter, it usually runs 400 - 500 watts draw.

Why? Because getting the full 1,820 watts of power would mean running everything flat out and wide open, as loud as possible, which would both be too loud, way into clipping, for any location I have ever been in and would likely mean the speakers and sub would self destruct.

On the other hand, I have been know to burn four CDs at a time for an extended period, and to play 1080p mkv files, and do some video editing and format conversion which takes some time. Pegging the current system to 100% CPU for hours is not too unusual, and that willl likely continue after he rebuild since many programs such as video encoding use all horespower you have by default. That is why the current system has four 120mm fans plus the CPU cooler, and the rebuild will up that to six 120mm fans including the two Noctura 120mm fans on the Venomous X CPU cooler.

I agree to some extend with the comments on the limitations of the power calculators, but the Antec one seems to be a major step up from those I have used in the past. This one expects you to select which CPU, which video card, in sufficient detail that it should have fairly accurate power demand numbers. The fact that it knows the default voltage and speed of the i5, and allows you to enter a speed and voltage for overclocking to calculate a power draw for the CPU would seem to be indicative of an effort to make the final numbers at least a good starting point.

Not to say that I would trust the power calculator 100%, but I don't get the feeling that I should be doing a full and proper analysis of all the components in it's place.

The bottom line is that the Antec indicates that my system rebuild will just maybe be OK with my current power supply for nondemanding use - leaving no headroom.

I read a review of the Corsair 850HX, and it is impressive. Expensive, but impressive.
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Old January 9, 2010, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfielder View Post
Sound like the same as my DJ setup. I have a rated 1,820 watts (2 NX55P tops @ 550W ea, 1 LS720 sub @ 720W) of audio power, but when I run the system through a power meter, it usually runs 400 - 500 watts draw.

Man this 1,820 watts is Marketing BS .

My 150 pounds 30 years old trusty McIntosh MC2300 is rated 2 x 300 watts or 600 watts in mono and draw 14A on 120 volts, or 1400 watts, at full charge it's pure physic, nothing is gain nothing is lost.

I buy it in 1978 to replace 4 Cerwin Vega 365 watts per channel Amplifier , in it was driving my 16 Cerwin V30 ..if only at the time I have a laptop with MP3, instead of box and box of 12" vinyl
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