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JD December 19, 2009 11:01 AM

40ft HDMI Cable
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here's my scenario (with diagram at the end of the post):

My PC (blue) is basically in direct line of sight from the TV (purple) in the basement (about 15-20ft). However I'd rather not run the cable directly to it since then it would run in the middle of the floor. So, luckily the other side of one of my walls faces into the furnace/laundry room (light purple) which isn't drywalled so running a cable (orange) through there is simple. Green lines are doorways.

Only thing I'm wondering, is the HDMI output on my HD4890 Vapor-X (native, no adapter) going to output enough power to get the signal down that 40ft piece of cable? Needs to send 1080p video along with audio. Interference wise, shouldn't be too bad, and I'll do my best to keep it away from the electrical wiring.

And the cable in question is this 22AWG cable from Monoprice or the 24AWG if you think it would also work alright. 24AWG is preferred since it would be a bit more flexible and it's $10 less, but I don't want the signal to be degraded when it gets to the TV.

I'd also be using one of these port savers at each end since I imagine either cable is going to be heavy and not overly flexible.

Arinoth December 19, 2009 12:03 PM

Well i'll do a little math in here to see which would be better for you
22AWG = 16.14 Ohms per foot
24AWG = 25.67 Ohms per foot
Now ideally you want to have the lowest resistance (ohms per foot) as possible
You're going ~40 feet.
22AWG: 40 feet X 16.14 Ohms per Foot = 0645.6 Ohms + 43.3 Ohms (2 28AWG Port Savers at 8 inches each) = 0688.9 Ohms
24AWG: 40 feet x 25.67 Ohms per Foot = 1026.8 Ohms + 43.3 Ohms (2 28AWG Port Savers at 8 inches each) = 1070.1 Ohms
Difference of 381.2 Ohms of resistance onto whatever signal you are sending.
Will you get signal degradation, this i do not know as i do know what the resistance required to degrade an hmdi signal and what tolerances all your devices will tolerate. If it were me i'd go with the lower gauge wire as an electronics engineering technologist (and electronics engineering student) i prefer the lowest possible resistance on a signal as possible.

lowfat December 19, 2009 01:16 PM

As long as the wires you are buying from monopriced aren't sleeved flexibility shouldn't be bad. I had purchased some 22awg sleeved hdmi cables and the bends it can make are atrocious.

JD December 19, 2009 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowfat (Post 304625)
As long as the wires you are buying from monopriced aren't sleeved flexibility shouldn't be bad. I had purchased some 22awg sleeved hdmi cables and the bends it can make are atrocious.

lol tell me about it. I got a 10ft one that's sleeved and it is terrible. Luckily I didn't need any major bends in it. Neither of these are sleeved though.

@Arinoth, totally agree with you. Less resistance the better, but from your math, either way it doesn't seem like much. And actually either cable I get, I still have to pay for more expensive shipping as it's over 5lbs. I guess I'll just get the 22AWG then.

BrainEater December 19, 2009 03:17 PM

Yep lower AWG is better.

I suggest you look for "Cat2" grade hdmi cables at the 40' length.

Cat2 is tested and certified.It's like cat6 ethernet.....

:thumb:

JD December 19, 2009 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrainEater (Post 304649)
I suggest you look for "Cat2" grade hdmi cables at the 40' length.

Cat2 is tested and certified.It's like cat6 ethernet.....

Any links to this? Never seen/heard of that before. And I'm not spending more than $50 before shipping/tax on a cable.

lcdguy January 23, 2010 08:14 AM

I actually have this cable and it is not sleeved. It's has an outer rubber coating. It's fairly stiff so i think it's probably a solid core wire. I don't find any signal loss using it with my setup. Also i believe the one i got is also rated for in wall installation.

JD January 23, 2010 03:14 PM

Well since I got my i7 setup, I had enough parts around to build a secondary PC, so I don't need this long cable anymore (good thing I never bought it).

Thanks for letting me know that it would of worked though. I still might do it so I can game on the 40" TV.

Ryoohki January 24, 2010 09:52 AM

Personnally i would get the AWG22. It's more flexible than you can imagine. You can't to 90' angle but it can be stuffed quite nicely. I own the 35 foot, AWG22

biff January 24, 2010 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arinoth (Post 304604)
Well i'll do a little math in here to see which would be better for you
22AWG = 16.14 Ohms per foot
24AWG = 25.67 Ohms per foot
Now ideally you want to have the lowest resistance (ohms per foot) as possible
You're going ~40 feet.
22AWG: 40 feet X 16.14 Ohms per Foot = 0645.6 Ohms + 43.3 Ohms (2 28AWG Port Savers at 8 inches each) = 0688.9 Ohms
24AWG: 40 feet x 25.67 Ohms per Foot = 1026.8 Ohms + 43.3 Ohms (2 28AWG Port Savers at 8 inches each) = 1070.1 Ohms
Difference of 381.2 Ohms of resistance onto whatever signal you are sending.
Will you get signal degradation, this i do not know as i do know what the resistance required to degrade an hmdi signal and what tolerances all your devices will tolerate. If it were me i'd go with the lower gauge wire as an electronics engineering technologist (and electronics engineering student) i prefer the lowest possible resistance on a signal as possible.

BTW, divide all your calculated resistances by 1000. The resistances you quoted were Ohms/1000ft., not per foot.


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