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Old November 1, 2010, 06:48 PM
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Default How to: Change subwoofer in Logitech Z-5500

Hello fellas..

I did this little project today after gathering *just* enough information online. And thought it was quite difficult to find what I wanted to find. So I'm going to write up a worklog with pictures over the next few days on how I did it.

Pictures to follow..


I blew the subwoofer in my Z-5500 system, and the subwoofer wasn't very good sounding to begin with. I read that a replacement can't be bought, so you have to get another 10" sub. But not just any 10" will do..

Here's a pic of the damage, the cone split from the coil. Could *possibly* be glued back, but either way it's a great excuse for an upgrade.



The Logitech sub calls for 8Ohms, and that is a rare speaker to find in a 10" sub (or any size?) since most are 4ohm, or even 2. However, you can get a dual coil 4ohm subwoofer and wire it in series to make 8ohms. And it works perfect and won't blow your amp. I will make a diagram to show how this is done.. The subwoofer I bought is a Clarion SRW 1085. Can be had for around 100 bucks at your local car audio store. I wasn't picky as to what sub to get. Just make sure it is 4ohm dual coil (or single 8ohm if you can find it) and at least 188W RMS (this one is 325W RMS). You can have up to about 6" depth and the box should fit it. Mine's 5 3/4" and it fits in just fine.

The amp in the system is actually quite decent, it drove my system on boost 11 for hours before the sub blew, and the amp didn't even get hot. It will and does drive this sub just fine.

The process is quite simple, you have to remove the grill, and this video showed me how to do it, because I WAS DOING IT WRONG!

YouTube - HOW TO REMOVE Z5500 GRILL

Once you have the grill removed, remove the 8 Phillips #2 screws (use a drill, takes a lot less time). The subwoofer then comes out and you can disconnect it from the wires. It's tricky I had to use a utility knife to unhook the tiny pins.

Now time to wire up the new sub. If you have a 8ohm single coil replacement, just hook them up directly to positive and negative. If not, this is how you wire it.



You just need a piece of speaker wire about a foot long if that, just use 1 side of it, and splice the ends and connect them as shown per diagram. This way the coils run in series and matches the amp at 8Ohms instead of 4. This is a picture of the wire needed, the guy gave me it for free with the sub:



I had to drill new holes since my sub was about a half cm off from the original holes, just get a small drill bit and drill new holes with your sub sitting in place. Then drill the original screws into the holes. It works out great. Once you have it hooked up and drilled in, you're ready to hook it back up and test it!

This is a picture of my setup without the grill, haven't decided if I want to put it back on or not



Mine sounds GREAT! Way louder than original when needed, doesn't sound as muddy at all, and goes a bit deeper. No distortion! All around happy with my modification. I will enjoy this set for a few more years now! The stock box is tuned for a higher bass frequency, so it still won't sound perfect at 30-50hz, but with the new sub it sounds better all around, and is much louder!

Hope this helps someone
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Last edited by Jake_HT; December 16, 2010 at 03:12 PM.
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Old November 1, 2010, 07:04 PM
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I have dual Clarion ProAudio PXW1042s in my car, great SQ subwoofers - tight bass. I love 'em.
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Old November 1, 2010, 07:17 PM
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After all the info I gave you its great to see the result!

Definitely better then stock.
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Old November 1, 2010, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrajr122 View Post
After all the info I gave you its great to see the result!

Definitely better then stock.
Yes thanks for the technical help! It sounds much better and I am quite glad the old one blew up
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Old January 28, 2011, 01:54 AM
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I registered just to reply this thread. Damn some ppl are dumb thinking "oh yea I have 400 rms subwoofer no wai ~200rms amplifier will break it" but matter of fact it does. You should always have more power in your amplifier than subwoofer. I wonder when you are coming here to cry that you burned your subwoofer.

When you try to take more power from your amplifier than it can give, the amplifier will overdrive and clip and it will cause compressed signal. Don't understand?
The silent part of the music will play louder, while the louder parts have reached their max potential. Power load will raise and comes more continuously. Heat will raise and voice coil don't have time to cool down.

There should always be about 100-200W more power in amplifier than sub.

"Oh you don't know you haven't bought shit to Z5500 dont know what it sounds like" bla bla bla, guess what? I managed to burn quality 2x4ohm 250W RMS subwoofer with this shitty 188W Z5500 amplifier. Just this ~50W power difference between amplifier and sub.

My two cents. Have fun with your subwoofer
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Old April 20, 2011, 12:54 AM
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Hi! I just registered, I wanted to post to suggest you try flipping the cone inside out to point the other way, mount it back up. It looks like there is foam for it to be mounted this way. I would love to know the difference that may make!

Does this sub seem like it will last longer than the original? I have the exact same problem with my sub and I'm currently saving my dollars, and trying to decide which sub to replace the original with! Mine sounds terrible as it is, ripped like yours was.

Very interesting post, thank you for sharing your experiences!
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Old June 16, 2011, 12:31 PM
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After reading this post i realized i just so happened to have one of these subs kicking around the garage collecting dust so i figured what the hell I'd give the swap a try.

Took about 10-15 minutes to do it, had to drill all new holes for the screws to ensure the sub sat centered in the opening, other than that it was a breeze.

First thoughts now that its complete:

Bass has less punch, but the lows are deeper. Overall i think i liked the old sub better, i don't listen to a lot of music that takes advantage of the deeper lows, and the lack of 'punchiness' makes some of my music seem empty now. If you listen to a lot of rap or music with lots of deep low bass its a definite improvement but if you listen to a lot of metal/rock i wouldn't bother unless you blew your original sub like the OP.

System: Win 7, Auzentech Prelude 7.1, Z-5500 - Front speakers are replaced with Polk audio monitor 60 series II
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Old March 21, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomba View Post
I registered just to reply this thread. Damn some ppl are dumb thinking "oh yea I have 400 rms subwoofer no wai ~200rms amplifier will break it" but matter of fact it does. You should always have more power in your amplifier than subwoofer. I wonder when you are coming here to cry that you burned your subwoofer.

When you try to take more power from your amplifier than it can give, the amplifier will overdrive and clip and it will cause compressed signal. Don't understand?
The silent part of the music will play louder, while the louder parts have reached their max potential. Power load will raise and comes more continuously. Heat will raise and voice coil don't have time to cool down.

There should always be about 100-200W more power in amplifier than sub.

"Oh you don't know you haven't bought shit to Z5500 dont know what it sounds like" bla bla bla, guess what? I managed to burn quality 2x4ohm 250W RMS subwoofer with this shitty 188W Z5500 amplifier. Just this ~50W power difference between amplifier and sub.

My two cents. Have fun with your subwoofer
Just ran across this old thread... Funny this guy says this, because I've run the sub since I made the post, for a year, and I ran it very hard with several parties, as loud as it would possibly run. Now my brother runs the system.

Still no blown subwoofer.... so I can't agree with your statement. I've read time and time again that you should have higher wattage subs than the amp so you don't blow them. Seems to have worked. You can also run higher rated amp than your subs as long as you watch the volume. They both work.

If wired correctly to get 8 ohms, you should have no problems. The speakers can handle 350W RMS, if the amp is only providing 188, it won't blow the speakers at max output, and the amp as long as it is cooled properly, will not blow either. The Z5500 has thermal protection also so it will shut off if too hot, which I've had happen. As long as it's not clipping the subwoofer, which doesn't happen at all with my setup, it's fine. You shouldn't run a 100W amp with a 1200W subwoofer, I agree, but calling me dumb for what I've done is silly.

Also, check your spelling before you call people dumb.

Felt an update was necessary since this thread got a lot of hits. Ignore this guy. He blew his subwoofer from other problems, not wattage differences
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Old April 23, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Hey Jake_HT,

I just attempted to perform this mod with a different subwoofer, and if you're still around would love to rack your brain. I purchased a Kicker CompVR 07CVR104 and wired it to 8ohms like the Logitech factory sub. After getting it all back into the case and firing up the system the cone is making a rattling noise. I am trying to figure out if this is because of a factory gain setting, lack of cubic space in the box, or a blown sub. The cone only rattles when it is mounted to the box. If I take the subwoofer out and hold it while it plays, the cone does not make any noise. All screws are securely tightened and they are not the cause of the rattle. If I plug the port on the side of the box, the rattle gets much quieter but obviously I want a ported box to get the loudest bass. If you have any ideas, please shoot me a message back. Thanks.
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Old April 23, 2012, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fosser2 View Post
Hey Jake_HT,

I just attempted to perform this mod with a different subwoofer, and if you're still around would love to rack your brain. I purchased a Kicker CompVR 07CVR104 and wired it to 8ohms like the Logitech factory sub. After getting it all back into the case and firing up the system the cone is making a rattling noise. I am trying to figure out if this is because of a factory gain setting, lack of cubic space in the box, or a blown sub. The cone only rattles when it is mounted to the box. If I take the subwoofer out and hold it while it plays, the cone does not make any noise. All screws are securely tightened and they are not the cause of the rattle. If I plug the port on the side of the box, the rattle gets much quieter but obviously I want a ported box to get the loudest bass. If you have any ideas, please shoot me a message back. Thanks.
That rattling you're hearing is probably air leaking, since you said it only happens when it's in the box. Try to seal it with caulking to see if that helps.
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