How To: Turn your Laing DDC 3.1/ MCP 350 into a Lain DDC 3.2/ MCP 355
Okay everyone, this is my first "How To" thread, and I truly think this could be beneficial to some people I am not 100% sure if this, or something similar has been posted, but I looked, searched and found nothing.
I would like people to note that I am not a water cooling guru, or expert, but would like to think that I do know a thing or two about water cooling - thanks to this forum, and many others. I am writing this at the best of my ability and knowledge! Please correct me if any mistakes are made.
On a second note, this mod was done to the (newer) pumps which fetchers a blue impeller!
The Laing DDC 3.2 A.K.A [Swiftech] MCP-355 is known as one of the best basic pumps around when combined with an aftermarket/ third-party top. The favourite top would be the one from XSPC, which can be seen here: XSPC - Performance PC Cooling (If you want the best pump around, go get a Iwaki RD-30. Careful though, the RD-30 has caused tubing to swell!)
At the cost of flow, the DDC 3.2/ MCP-355 has superior head pressure to the Laing D5/ MCP-655. Head pressure is something we want in the water cooling world. Head pressure is going to determine how far your water will flow, most notably, in a vertical state. If one has no pressure, their water simply isnít going anywhere. You want head-pressure!
ATTENTION: Neither I nor your pumps manufacturer can be held responsible for damages which are caused my this modification. By removing any screws, covers, etc. you act at your own risk, and will void all warranty.
This is my Swiftech Apogee Drive. This is a CPU Water Block with a built in DDC 3.1. Note that this is the exact same pump that is seen on the stand alone DDC 3.1s.
STEP ONE: Remove the screws on the top of your pump. In this picture they are already removed. (The two smaller holes with "1"s beside them are not important.)
You will notice it looks a lot more like the DDC 3.1 with the mounting unit, and Swiftech badge removed The stand alone pump will not have a badge on it.
STEP TWO: With all the screws removed, remove the top from the pump - it should almost fall off with the screws removed. The next step is to press on the center piece that has eight (8) little circles on it. Two more pieces should separate.http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2264/img0688fb.jpg
You should have one piece that looks like this -
At the top-left of the PCB board, you will see four wires that are soldered on. This is where the mod starts.
A closer look -
STEP THREE: Now you are going to solder the very first section (the wire that is not sleeved/ colored) to that little gold/ brass square beside it. Make sure to get solder on the bare wire itself, AND NOT TO GET SOLDER ON AN OTHER CONNECTER! I.E. DON'T LET THE SOLDER GET ONTO WHERE THE BLUE, YELLOW, AND BLACK WIRES ARE!!!
Another View -
These are the tools that I used. A basic soldering iron, and some solder (duh)
This is how mine turned out... There is a lot more than needed (I fail at soldering :haha:)
And with that your mod is complete!
DDC 3.1 impeller speed: aprx. 3900RPM
DDC 3.1 modded/ DDC 3.2 impeller speed: aprx. 4500RPM
The above was the concluding test of this mod done by WiNDycj. Those where the numbers that he posted via Everest Home Edition. The RPM sensor of the pump was connected to the CPU fan on the motherboard. Please note that I do plan on providing my own test results!
[This Space Is Reserved]
would a pencil mod work?:ph34r::bleh:
and the results are :P
better hurry before i finish mine and post up first :P
Anywho, the mod is done, actually, the whole thing take like five minutes.
Pictures and the conclusion will be up tonight.
holy soldering job :shok::doh:
no offense bro :)
i bought mcp350... (no choice)
so i opened it and notice that pcb is little different... but its still 3.1 and blue impeller..
something like this
so i wonder can i connect the black line (ground) to empty one?
|All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:42 PM.|