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Old December 12, 2008, 07:52 PM
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I've got one I used a couple of times to strip down cars before they were repainted, Hmmmm thanks Jerry this would save a ton of work. But at least its winter, sandblasting in 35c weather is no fun.
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Old December 12, 2008, 08:04 PM
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Also with enough layers in the case you shouldn't need a clear coat. Clear coat is really to just make it shine.
This depends on what paint you use, most automotive paints are formulated to be used with a clear coat as it provides better scratch resistance than just the base coat. Krylon and Tremclad are designed as a one coat system that donít need a clear coat.

I work in a metal shop and most of our stuff is powder coated, but the stuff that is not goes through the same curing oven as the powder coated stuff. So if youíre using automotive paint (lacquer) it is best to use a heat lamp to cure it, as this will give better strength and durability. I have a friend who lacquered his guitar and cured it in a very low temp oven (try at your own risk ).
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Old December 12, 2008, 08:46 PM
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80 grit is wayyyy too coarse. All you are doing there is scratching it up

180 for steel, 220 for aluminum.

Sandblasting depends on the media. For a computer case use soda ash or glass beads as the material. Typical sand or copper slag will **** your shit up in a hurry.
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Old December 12, 2008, 09:51 PM
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I use to sandblast gas tanks that most were aluminum so we could spray them with a zinc coating when repairing them and we used a 150 grit sand and it was fine. Steel and aluminum is still steel an aluminum, obviously the gauge is different depending on the application, but I say if it's fine for an aluminum gas tank it's fine for the chassis of a computer case. Most people who have sandblasted before know enough not to hold it in one area too long or you will go through the metal. You are just using it to scuff up the metal so the it gives something for the primer to adhere to.
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Old December 13, 2008, 03:59 AM
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nice guide
last time i painted my antec 900 i merely just sprayed paint on it without doing anything
and the paint can chip off so easily that even fingernail scratches the paint off :(
ill probably have to mod another antec 900 during my xmas break
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Old December 13, 2008, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BALISTX View Post
I use to sandblast gas tanks that most were aluminum so we could spray them with a zinc coating when repairing them and we used a 150 grit sand and it was fine. Steel and aluminum is still steel an aluminum, obviously the gauge is different depending on the application, but I say if it's fine for an aluminum gas tank it's fine for the chassis of a computer case. Most people who have sandblasted before know enough not to hold it in one area too long or you will go through the metal. You are just using it to scuff up the metal so the it gives something for the primer to adhere to.
Steel and aluminum are quite different are made of up very different properties.
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Old December 13, 2008, 08:29 AM
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I was not stating that steel and aluminum were the same thing. I was stating that wether it is a steel computer case or something else that is steel, it's still steel, the same with aluminum.
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Old December 14, 2008, 08:53 PM
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Balistx, can u elaborate on the process on removing current paint for those who may have messed up their previous paint jobs?
and a word of advice NEVER USE ANY PRIMER OTHER THAN SELF ETCHING .. i recently used tremclad primer on my case... peeled quite easily..
thinking of re-doing the messed up parts with SEM Self Etch..
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Old December 14, 2008, 09:34 PM
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When it comes to removing paint you have three process, three will work on a steel case and 2 will work on aluminum.

1. Sanding, two remove paint you will want to use 80 grit or 150 grit sandpaper. You will do this by hand unless you have a mouse sander or orbital sander. Once you are done with the 80 grit or 150 grit move up to a 220 grit, then to a 500 grit. Each finer grit to remove the scratches from the previous. Unfortunately for the nooks and crannies you will need to get in there and hand sand it. This process is long and tedious. Unfortunately most will only be able to use this method.

2. Sandblasting. If you know anyone or a shop that can sandblast the paint of your case this is a quick and easy method. Again like hand sanding you will want to use 80 or 150 grit sand and once the paint is off, you can use a glass bead to help reduce the scratches by the coarse grit. If you own an air compressor you can pick up a gravity feed sandblasting gun from Princess Auto for $24.99 (This is what I am planning on doing) and then pick up sand and the glass bead from CT, Home Depot or even Princess Auto. Keep in mind the sandblasting gun only holds about 5oz IIRC so you will need to stop and fill it quite often.

3. Chemical Paint Stripper. This is NOT to be used on aluminum cases. This is strictly if you have a steel case as the stripper will eat through the aluminum. Also keep in mind even on steel you do not want to leave this on too long. This will make fast work of removing the paint depending on how many layers of paint are on the case. Like sandblasting you should do this outside. Remember to wear safty glasses, rubber gloves to protect your eyes and hands. You can get paint stripper at any paint supply store, CT, Home Depot or Rona. You pour out the stripper onto the area that you want to remove the paint from and spread it out with a paint brush. Let the stripper sit for about 5-10 minutes depending on how many layers of paint you need to remove. Then with a plastic squeeze (the same as used for applying vinyal graphics or window tint) scrape off the paint. If after 5 minutes of letting the stripper sit you notice that it is not removing the paint let it sit for a bit longer.
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