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  #41 (permalink)  
Old April 20, 2013, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Squeetard View Post
I AM LOVING THIS! Thanks MDREHJON for coming in here and telling us. What's really amazing is how our brains can interpret the jaggy, ghosty blurry crap so we have accepted the 60hz LCD experience all these years. Never going back! No more fatigue and headaches.
You're welcome!

One thing that some people noticed is that the VG278HE, has a slightly worse checkerboard pixel pattern artifact than the VG278H (amplified LCD inversion artifact during motion). Do you see this much? However, the VG278HE can look pretty good if you adjust the Contrast downwards a bit. My BENQ XL2411T and reportedly the VG248QE, does not have this artifact.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old April 20, 2013, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bao View Post
Glad it's working for you, it's mind blowing.
At first going with 120hz LB and then switching back to 120/144hz non LB doesn't seem like much of a difference.
Then I went 2+ weeks with LB, then tried 144hz non LB and it was a disaster in comparison.
Yes, this is really the sample-and-hold effect of non-LB 144Hz being compared to LB 120Hz.

Motion blur is actually co-related to the length of the time a visible refresh is displayed for -- this is the same reason why CRT 60fps@60Hz has had less motion blur than traditional LCD 120fps@120Hz. A display can instead stroboscopically shorten a refresh (black period between refreshes; black frame insertion effect; flicker technology like CRT) to get the same motion-blur-reduction benefit as getting more Hz on a sample-and-hold (continuously-shining) display.

60 Hz non-LB = frames continuously shine for 1/60sec = 16.7ms of eye-tracking-based motion blur.
144 Hz non-LB = frames continuously shine for 1/144sec = 6.9ms of eye-tracking-based motion blur.
120 Hz LB 100% = frames stroboscopically flashes for 2.4ms = 2.4ms of eye-tracking-based motion blur.
120 Hz LB 10% = frames stroboscopically flashes for 1.4ms = 1.4ms of eye-tracking-based motion blur.
(See TFTCentral LightBoost strobe flash length measurements)

As you can see, LightBoost at its optimized setting (LightBoost OSD setting of 10%, but not "OFF"), have 12x less motion blur than non-LightBoost. (1.4ms versus 16.7ms is a mathematically 12x difference & confirmed in motion blur tests such as PixPerAn car). Which means, where you saw a 12 pixel motion blur trail on the 60 Hz LCD, you only have a 1 pixel motion blur trail in LightBoost mode for the same speed motion (assuming fps matching Hz). You can easily clearly read the PixPerAn car "I NEED MORE SOCKS" in the motion test; even at fast tempos, Tempo 8 and faster -- and you can have a PixPerAn readability test score of 30; something formerly only possible on CRT's until LightBoost came along.

So in effect, LightBoost 10%, of 1.4ms strobe lengths (1/700sec) has the same motion blur equivalence of a theoretical 700fps@700Hz sample-and-hold display -- via getting 120 Hz with the equivalent of lots of black frames between each refresh. Points of diminishing returns certainly apply here, but given sufficiently fast motion (FPS gaming), the motion blur of even regular 144 Hz (sample-and-hold) is still detectable to the human eye due to the eye-tracking-based motion blur problem of sample-and-hold displays. Some gamers like me still don't think regular 120 Hz LCD's are as good as CRT's -- but finally LightBoost is the Holy Grail for former CRT users and other people sensitive to motion blur (as long as they don't mind accepting TN LCD color gamut).

Personally, I use LightBoost at an OSD setting of 50%, since that has even less motion blur than LightBoost 100%, and is not too dim (like LightBoost 10% usually is for my eyes).

Last edited by mdrejhon; April 20, 2013 at 12:20 AM.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old April 20, 2013, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bao View Post
I wonder if Mr. Blurbuster himself has a universal set of instructions available yet.
Alas, the hack methods of LightBoost is very hard to keep identical instructions for Windows Vista 32-bit, Windows Vista 64-bit, Windows 7 32-bit, Windows 7 64-bit, Windows 8 32-bit, Windows 8 64-bit -- there's so many different versions of Windows that have differences. There are differences on all platforms on how to install the INF file, which is quite a problem. The ToastyX method is easier, but also presents a different set of problems, too. We'd welcome minor clarifications from people running multiple versions of Windows, if there's a minor error.

Blur Busters is definitely researching other, easier methods of enabling LightBoost, in conjunction with some others. The LightBoost hack is only four months old -- thanks to initial discovery by TechNGaming and esreality forum and the popularization by the Blur Busters Squad -- Before then, nobody was able to trick LightBoost to become enabled without a shutter glasses emitter. The official method of easily enabling LightBoost is to purchase the 3D Vision Kit (which nVidia wants you to), but there are more people in many gaming forums interested in eliminating motion blur, rather than wanting to use 3D glasses.

Ideally, nVidia should allow users a way to enable the LightBoost feature without needing 3D glasses. Barring that, third party relief for easy enabling of LightBoost is coming in the next few months (hopefully sooner -- as in the next few weeks -- and hopefully a one-click step).

EDIT: Third party relief arrived! See ToastyX Strobelight. Easy LightBoost ON/OFF!

Last edited by mdrejhon; July 9, 2013 at 06:49 PM.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old April 26, 2013, 02:31 PM
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Just received my ASUS VG248QE today and all I have to say is WOW! So much smoother playing fps games or anything with a lot of motion. Wish I had switched long ago. Now to get some NVIDIA cards so i can try out the lightboost hack :)
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old May 1, 2013, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Inik View Post
I'm soo tempted to try it, but it would mean I need to replace that 7970! What is you GPU set up guys ? Could I be satisfied by one 680 only?
It works on the 7970 if you activate it on a Geforce (even a cheap one) then hot-plug the DVI cable back to the 7970.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeetard View Post
For some reason Crysis 3 still seems jerky no matter what the setting. I think this is due to another POS device we have been tricked into using. Optical mice. Just try and move one smoothly without seeing little micro increments. I've got a G9 too. Give me an analog ball mouse and a CRT back please.
I am using a G9x mouse. It helps a lot if you jack the sensitivity upwards on the mouse (1000Hz mode), while you massively lower the sensitivity in-game. Using a great micro-textured mousepad works as well. Then it becomes much more accurate, feels far more like a ball mouse.

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Originally Posted by Squeetard View Post
So I bought Borderlands 2 yesterday. Played the first and always liked how fluid the shooting/aiming mechanics were. Borderlands 2 stays pinned at 120fps for me and is absolutely blur and jitter free. Amazing to play. I've got the Lightboost set at 30%, I found 10% washed out the colors too much.
I finally redeemed for the free Borderlands 2 that came with my GTX 680. (I run it at 100fps@100Hz, since I can't stay locked at 120fps during wide-open outdoor scenes during very far view distances). Borderlands 2 benefits hugely from LightBoost especially if you track your eyes a lot while you're moving. The sharp black outlines stay perfectly sharp even during fast motion. I set monitor OSD contrast to 65% and Borderlands brightness to 5%, and the colors of Borderlands become so much better. No more washed-out colors. I do usually play at LightBoost=50%, since I am not in a blackout room.

Last edited by mdrejhon; May 1, 2013 at 11:51 PM.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old May 20, 2013, 12:01 PM
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There's a new comparison, Blur Busters 60Hz versus 120Hz versus LightBoost.

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These photographs compare motion blur during 60Hz vs 120Hz, as well as with the LightBoost strobe backlight enabled. All images below are captured from the same ASUS VG278H computer monitor. These demonstrates differences in perceived motion blur caused by the sample-and-hold effect.

These UFO objects were moving horizontally at 960 pixels per second an ASUS VG278H LCD, moving at a frame rate matching refresh rate, and captured using a pursuit camera using a 1/30second camera exposure (exposing multiple refreshes into the same image).

60 Hz Refresh rate:
Each refresh is displayed continuously for a full 1/60 second (16.7ms)


120 Hz Refresh rate:
Each refresh is displayed continuously for a full 1/120 second (8.3ms)
This creates 50% less motion blur.



120 Hz LightBoost:
The backlight is strobed briefly, once per refresh, eliminating sample-and-hold.
This has 85% to 92% less motion blur than 60Hz, depending on the LightBoost OSD setting.



At 120fps@120Hz, a 1/30second camera exposure captures 4 refreshes. All 4 refreshes are stacked on each other, because the pursuit camera is moving in sync with the 120fps@120Hz moving object at a 1/30second camera exposure. The brief backlight flash prevents tracking-based motion blur.
The rest of the article, and how these photographs were created, are found at 60Hz versus 120Hz versus LightBoost.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old May 21, 2013, 08:11 AM
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You're preaching to the Choir brutha.
Having finished BL2 I'm now playing ME3(for the first time) and have no trouble keeping 120fps.
Gonna get the 780 and give Last light a go soon.

All you have to do is move up close to a wall with a poster or sign on it and strafe side to side. The image stays clear. Try that with your 60hz lcd's, the whole thing washes out.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old May 25, 2013, 10:12 AM
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Installed the newest Nvidia drivers. I can now enter a game w/o having to hit CTRL+T 25 times.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old May 30, 2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
Installed the newest Nvidia drivers. I can now enter a game w/o having to hit CTRL+T 25 times.
You don't even need to hit Control+T at all, if you follow the new ToastyX method.

I've never touched Control+T for the last two months as a result :-)
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old May 30, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrejhon View Post
You don't even need to hit Control+T at all, if you follow the new ToastyX method.

I've never touched Control+T for the last two months as a result :-)
That is the method I have been using. Not sure what was different for me but I had to hit ctrl+t every time up until the newest driver release.
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