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Old February 2, 2008, 08:32 AM
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Default First try at Lapping!

Here are some shots I should have taken a while ago, but I took advantage of installing my E8400 to take some shots of my lapped Q6600 and TRUE 120






The Q6600 might be going up for sale depending on how the E8400 performs.
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Old February 2, 2008, 08:35 AM
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Okay...what about a how-to session? I'm very interested in this.....Just dunno how to! Those two look awesomely shiney!!
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Old February 2, 2008, 08:53 AM
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Those look great, have you put the q6600 back into your system and if so whats the temps. I'm thinking of lapping my E6550 tonight.
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Old February 2, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Its pretty easy to do really. Get sandpaper in grades from 800 - 2000. Wet/Spitsand the shit out of the bottom of it, use something flat though so you dont make finger waves in it,

Just keep working up. Lastly you can use some AutoSol or something similar ( fine final Metal polish ) you must do a good job of cleaning this stuff off though since usually it leaves a residue to stop corrosion.

Should look like a mirror after your done.

I'd do a how to but I've already done all mine. I have a few random heatsinks around here I could do one though.


-- Nice job on the TRUE op!
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Old February 2, 2008, 09:26 AM
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I actually did this a couple of months ago but didn't take pics then. I took pics now because I was installing my E8400 so I thought I'd take advantage and do the pics. I don't remember exact temps anymore, but I did notice an improvement.

The how to was from that YouTube video plus various posts around the net. YouTube - Lapping Thermalright Ultra Extreme

Here is my ingredients list:
Quote:
200, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper (they say the 2000 is optional, but it gives that mirror finish) - Get the Wet-Dry kind
Lint-free car polishing cloth
Armor All Polishing Compound (again optional, but as the final step in the shine process, I liked it!)
Nail Polish remover (try to get unscented with acetone if possible)
100% Pure isopropyl alcohol (Shoppers Drug Mart)
Exacto knife blade (for checking flatness of processor and heat sink)
Masking tape
Clean water
A couple of drops of detergent
Q-Tips
The plastic backing of your processor
Something to watch on TV (I watched the Hockey Night in Canada doubleheader on a Saturday while lapping the TRUE and the Q6600)
4-Pack of Guinness (not optional, if you don't have this, forget about lapping :lol:)
I went to the automotive department at Canadian Tire and bought a whole bunch of different grades of sandpaper. I bought 200, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 (The Wet-Dry kind)

I took a piece of glass from a small painting we had in the house (which got me some trouble from the wife )

What I did:

Quote:
1) Pour a beer

2) Clean the surface of the processor and remove all traces of thermal paste. Same for the heat sink. I used the nail polish remover on the heatsink, then cleaned with alcohol. On the processor, only alcohol.

3) Tape down a piece of the 200 grit nice and stretched flat on the glass. Then I flicked some drops of the water with mixed with a couple drops of dish detergent on it. (Mix the detergent into the water first in a bowl or something)

4) Now this is debated as to whether you use a figure 8 motion or straight up and down. The theory is to move the heatsink slowly up and down until you have a nice pattern of lines on it. You can actually see the unevenness of the heat sink because when you do it in straight lines, you will see the criss cross of lines on the parts where the surface is uneven.

I used straight lines, about 40-50 passes then turn the heatsink 90 degrees, then the same. You keep doing this until you can see all the lines are going in the same direction, then switch. Once you get it to that point, you start to move up into the higher grits, keeping the sandpaper lubricated with little drops of the water/soap solution. Don't press down, just use the weight of the processor/heatsink.

5) For the processor, don't move up in grit until you've pretty much got all the silver off and can only see copper. I found that the best thing is to regularly check the flatness of the CPU/HS at regular intervals with the blade. When it's nice and flat check diagonal and cross-sections and hold it up to see if any light gets through. I would say only move up to the next grit when you're satisfied with the flatness.

6) Get another beer

7) Continue moving up in grit with the same process (this applies for HS and CPU): 50 passes, then rotate, 50 then rotate

8) Curse at how much the Leafs suck!

9) Once you've finished with the 2000 grit with the straight passes, I actually did some figure 8 and circles to get it polished up.
9a) Time for another beer

10) Take the lint-free cloth and moisten with clean water.

11) Take a tiny dab of Armor All and polish the surface until shiny and mirror-like

12) Clean the excess Armor All off with the alcohol (I used Q-Tips on the processor to make sure it was nice and clean)

13) Mount it and go nuts
All in all, it probably took me about 5 hours or more to do all this.

Now I noticed about a 2-3 degrees difference from before I lapped, but I must say my HS and CPU were both pretty curved.

I know this isn't a very good guide, but it's the best I could remember from two months ago.

I will be doing my E8400 soon if it continues to hold at 4.25 GHz stable since it'll be a keeper! Then I'll take more pics and try to remember the process and the steps better.
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Old February 2, 2008, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof. Dr. Silver View Post
Okay...what about a how-to session? I'm very interested in this.....Just dunno how to! Those two look awesomely shiney!!
It's actually quite easy. Get something flat and some grit & rub 'em together. Start coarse and finish fine.

The popular method is to use wet/dry paper with a flat backing like a plate of glass. Remember getting it flat and smooth is important, making it mirror-like is only good for the ego.
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Old February 2, 2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biff View Post
It's actually quite easy. Get something flat and some grit & rub 'em together. Start coarse and finish fine.

The popular method is to use wet/dry paper with a flat backing like a plate of glass. Remember getting it flat and smooth is important, making it mirror-like is only good for the ego.
Good for the ego, but you must admit that if you can get the mirror-like finish, you've probably got a pretty smooth and flat surface.
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Old February 2, 2008, 12:34 PM
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Smooth maybe but I'm not so sure about flat. I don't know what the limits of detectability for flatness are just by looking at it or a reflection off of it. I would thing at first thought that testing it against a razor's edge would be a more sensitive test but maybe I'll look into this further. Either way I think that this level of perfection is unnecessary for what were dealing with.

Has anyone done a study to see just how flat is flat enough? I'd be curious to see where the point of diminishing returns are.

Cheers!
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Old February 2, 2008, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biff View Post
Smooth maybe but I'm not so sure about flat. I don't know what the limits of detectability for flatness are just by looking at it or a reflection off of it. I would thing at first thought that testing it against a razor's edge would be a more sensitive test but maybe I'll look into this further. Either way I think that this level of perfection is unnecessary for what were dealing with.

Has anyone done a study to see just how flat is flat enough? I'd be curious to see where the point of diminishing returns are.

Cheers!
Of course I used the razor (or exacto knife ) edge to test flatness, which is better than reflection. If you really want to test it via reflection, you need a grid and you should have a perfect reflection with no distortion of the pattern.

And you're right, the level of perfection is probably unnecessary, but it's fun!
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Old February 2, 2008, 07:23 PM
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manufacturing class has taught me how to sand and polish. Though I don't think I would do this for only 2-4c. Well good jorb. Plus if you want to see flatness then maybe use a micrometer? or something similar.
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