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  #41 (permalink)  
Old September 1, 2008, 07:04 PM
Il Duce's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreqE1 View Post
Peel up the Antec sticker and you will see the wires leading to the LEDs. I actually desoldered them to remove them. Peel it, you'll see.
alright thanks for the tip. I was actually browsing google for like an hour for a solution :D.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 02:58 AM
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Default How did you remove the top?

Quote:
Originally Posted by frosty View Post
yes I did drill holes... I had to remove the top of the case, desonnect a few wires and drill 4 holes in the top to mount the rad.

How did you remove the top? It looks like there are rivets, that don't connect to anything except the frame. I've been pulling the front and top and it looks like it wants to come off, but I'm REAL afraid that it will break.

Any step by step info?

Thanks
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 05:20 AM
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Hay....

I actually called Antec on that one... the guy on the phone sent me a diagram depicting how the top comes off.

There are 4 or 6 (im at work right now so this is off the top or my head) black plastic clips, like fingers that hold the case on. I also hadto unscrew the grounding screw, but once the clips are popped loose, the case top slides forward. When I get home I 'll hopefully still have the email and I can forward it to you if you like. I think he might have given me a step by step in the email itself along with the diagram. I had to place a flat head screw driver in the clip area to pull the tab back and kinda pop the top up alittle to loosen it. theres 2 in the rear (right above the rear fans) and 2 midway (right before the 200mm fan) and im not sure if there were two more. There might only be 4 clips. I did take the drive bay cage out though to make it easier to remove the top. And make sure you have enough slack in the wires for the top USB and other plugs. I didnt totally remove the top off, the wires were still all attached (usb/sata/headphones). I just propped it up so I could workby sliding it forward and spinning it 90 degrees to gain access to the rad mounts i drilled. Also, i did pop out the rear fan controller for the top fan becasue I think its necessary. I had mounted all the fans on a terminal block so it wasnt a big deal for me.
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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 01:03 PM
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Ok, thanks. I'll try to tinker with it carefully.

If you can find the diagram that would be excellent.

And thanks for the reply, I've spent HOURS looking for disassembly to no avail.

saunderse@msn.com
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 01:29 PM
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heres a quick pic of the tab... ill check on the info ASAP tonight...
the rivets are not holding it together...
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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 02:14 PM
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I sent the email off.... let me know if you get it..... I know he refers to the 900 but its basically the same. In the email you'll find a pic and this txt...

To remove the top panel on the Nine hundred you will first have to remove the 2 silver screws near the 200mm fan. The top panel is held on with 6 clips and those 2 screws. The clips are on the inside along the edges of the case. There is a total of 6 clips. Remove the two screws and release the 4 clips and lift the top panel up about an inch. Once you have the top panel raised slightly, bump it towards the front of the enclosure to release the remaining two front clips. Here is a link that may also help you.
__________________
i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old October 20, 2008, 11:35 PM
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My System Specs

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Quote:
Originally Posted by frosty View Post
I sent the email off.... let me know if you get it..... I know he refers to the 900 but its basically the same. In the email you'll find a pic and this txt...

To remove the top panel on the Nine hundred you will first have to remove the 2 silver screws near the 200mm fan. The top panel is held on with 6 clips and those 2 screws. The clips are on the inside along the edges of the case. There is a total of 6 clips. Remove the two screws and release the 4 clips and lift the top panel up about an inch. Once you have the top panel raised slightly, bump it towards the front of the enclosure to release the remaining two front clips. Here is a link that may also help you.
good info thanks
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old March 3, 2009, 06:35 PM
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Default Did you keep the 200mm Fan?

Awesome build - I read your journey, and am looking at doing the same thing, possibly with a ThermoChill PA120.2 rad (Although I am concerned about the dimensions).

I had (maybe a seeming dumb) question, did you keep the 200mm Fan in the top cavity underneath your other rad? And did you have to do anything to shroud it tight or did it seem to fit pretty well?
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old March 4, 2009, 04:24 PM
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on know, i left the 200mm fan alone and didnt touch it... I wanted it there to help draw the heat off the rad.

The rad is in there snug. Theres not alot of room. If memory serves me correct I had to disconnect the rear top fan switch because I was unable to get my hands on it once the rad was installed. I have it out the where all the cables are (right side panel). I leave that fan on full speed always so it really didnt matter to me if there was access or not. Let me clearify...... its still connect to the switch, but its just not on the back of the case anymore..... The rad is screwed to the top shell of the case with flat head screws, I lined up the holes in the rad with the case, marked with pencil and drilled them..... Outta the 4 screws I put in, only 1 was outta line... but its still in there very strong.... it wont go anywhere...

I can jam my camera up inside the case if you want specific photos of the rad and spacing...... i'd be more than happy to do that if you would like...
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i2600k sandy bridge @ 3.4ghz/ 2x 8800 GTX KO ACS3 PCI-E 630MHZ 768MB 2.0GHZ SLI'd / Raptor 74GB / Antec 1200 Hundred Gaming Case / G.Skill Ripjaws ddr3 1600 cl 8-8-8-24 - 8gigs / evga z68 SLI MOBO / Samsung DVD+RW / Corsair ax850 PSU / 24" Samsung CinkMaster

Cooling:
Swiftech Dual rad
Swiftech Single rad
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu block
Feser One Red Fluid
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old March 5, 2009, 07:50 PM
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Thumbs up

Sure if you were in there I would certainly have a look at them, its nice to see pics with the rad installed! :)

Right now I have a 1200 case, but am upgrading from an X6800 Air cooled to an i7 965EE water cooled. Im going to give my current setup to my son, and buy a new 1200 (I like the case), that way I can work in the new case for a few weeks without worrying about cramping my computer time :)

I am hoping I dont run into many space issues, I have 1 of the 4 bay sections clear - I have 5 HDD's (RAID10 and a spare) in the bottom 2 cages and a floppy and CD in the top cage. As long as the pump fits in the free cage (Height wise) I think I will be ok.

I have never built a water cooled system from scratch before, so I have been scouring all the info I could find :) I think I am going to go with :

(2) Feser X-Changer Dual rads (One inside under the 200mm, and one off the back)
(1) Eheim Aquastream XT (Ultra Version) Pump
(1) EK Supreme CPU Block (Restrictive, will the monster pump make up for it?)
(1) EK-FC280 GTX SLI block for the GPU (Or maybe the DD Tieteon)
(1) DangerDen 5.25" Bay Reservoir

Im a little torn on what tubing to use. I was leaning toward 1/2" for flow rate. I have seen so many arguments both ways. And I want to use compression fittings, but im scared to death im going to get the wrong ones, but I guess thats part of the fun haha. I cant wait!

Your story has given me so much information, I am so glad you took the time to document your build, I intend to do the same!
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