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  #11 (permalink)  
Old August 6, 2009, 04:42 PM
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That tool is bit of an overkill...it's for rigorous sanding jobs. Not for this job where there will be tight corners and areas. Remember the first sanding before applying anything is just scruffing up the surface so paint adheres better - using high grit sandpaper (500 and up). You're merely roughing the surface (do not apply alot of pressure, let the sandpaper do the job) and shouldn only take a few mins at most.

Then subsequent sanding (use wetsanding) in between coats is for removing any imperfections from the paint job that might arise - like paint sags, uneven coats, paint blobs. Remember for the first coat the most common mistake people do is they think they have to have complete coverage and invariably end up overspraying areas making the paint job look uneven and blotchy. Just work quick with the spray ...if you miss an area don't worry about it (get it at the next coating). It's more important to do several light coats than to do 1 or 2 heavy coats. WetSand in-between coats once it's dry with low grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections which should be minimal if you followed the above steps.

Also for interior it's better to use flat paint (gloss paint reflects more heat). No need to clear coat at the end.
For the exterior I'd use a semi gloss paint (or satin for those who dislike too shiney surfaces)...several thin coats with high grit wetsandings in-between coats and finally,finish up with a clear coat to protect it. Gloss paint hardens better besides looking glossy which is why it's better for exteriors.

If you're using rustoleum, no priming needed (rust paints don't need primer). For other types of paint you do - self etching primer is preferable. If you can't find that - Zinsser Bullesye or Stix would be my recommendation.

That's for the DIY, then there's powdercoating in which case I'd derivet the whole case and send it to a shop to do it.
Good luck!
Hope that helps.

Last edited by morphy; August 6, 2009 at 05:03 PM.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old August 6, 2009, 05:10 PM
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steel wool the inside of the case
primer the inside with self etch
wipe down that
spray light coat of final color
repeat 2-3x

wipe hands and enjoy
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old August 6, 2009, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morphy View Post
That tool is bit of an overkill...it's for rigorous sanding jobs. Not for this job where there will be tight corners and areas. Remember the first sanding before applying anything is just scruffing up the surface so paint adheres better - using high grit sandpaper (500 and up). You're merely roughing the surface (do not apply alot of pressure, let the sandpaper do the job) and shouldn only take a few mins at most.

Then subsequent sanding (use wetsanding) in between coats is for removing any imperfections from the paint job that might arise - like paint sags, uneven coats, paint blobs. Remember for the first coat the most common mistake people do is they think they have to have complete coverage and invariably end up overspraying areas making the paint job look uneven and blotchy. Just work quick with the spray ...if you miss an area don't worry about it (get it at the next coating). It's more important to do several light coats than to do 1 or 2 heavy coats. WetSand in-between coats once it's dry with low grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections which should be minimal if you followed the above steps.

Also for interior it's better to use flat paint (gloss paint reflects more heat). No need to clear coat at the end.
For the exterior I'd use a semi gloss paint (or satin for those who dislike too shiney surfaces)...several thin coats with high grit wetsandings in-between coats and finally,finish up with a clear coat to protect it. Gloss paint hardens better besides looking glossy which is why it's better for exteriors.

If you're using rustoleum, no priming needed (rust paints don't need primer). For other types of paint you do - self etching primer is preferable. If you can't find that - Zinsser Bullesye or Stix would be my recommendation.

That's for the DIY, then there's powdercoating in which case I'd derivet the whole case and send it to a shop to do it.
Good luck!
Hope that helps.
Thank you so much for an excellent and informative response! Definitely helped

Quote:
Originally Posted by enaberif View Post
steel wool the inside of the case
primer the inside with self etch
wipe down that
spray light coat of final color
repeat 2-3x

wipe hands and enjoy
Quick and dirty, also an extremely helpful post. Just a little surprised there were no anti-900 remarks coming from you
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old August 6, 2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtispan View Post
Thank you so much for an excellent and informative response! Definitely helped



Quick and dirty, also an extremely helpful post. Just a little surprised there were no anti-900 remarks coming from you
Antec 900 is like Vista; My opinion is well known and I don't need to say anything ;)
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old August 6, 2009, 11:54 PM
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Hahaha that's excellent. I guess to each their own.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old September 11, 2009, 08:17 PM
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would 600 grit wet dry sandpaper be a little too coarse for sanding in between coats of paint?
i have all the panels from my black pearl off the case and primered,and am ready tomorrow to start the painting.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old September 17, 2009, 09:10 PM
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I've heard anything from 400 - 1200 grit wet sanding is acceptable. Depends on how shiny you want it I believe.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old September 17, 2009, 09:13 PM
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i ended up using 1000 grit.
i contacted plastikote about a couple ?`s i had,and their replies were prompt and very helpful.
very important to let the paint dry-cure completely before applying clearcoat.

if applied too soon the clearcoat can go white,which would suck beyond words.
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Old September 17, 2009, 10:34 PM
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PRIMER IS ALWAYS REQUIRED. NO IF ANDS OR BUTS!
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DISCLAIMER: The views and opinions expressed in the immediately preceding post are those of encorp and do not reflect the views and/or opinions of family, friends, or anyone remotely associated with encorp unless explicitly stated. encorp does not make any warranty, express or implied, or assumes any liability or responsibility for the quality, factuality or use of information in the immediately preceding post.
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Old September 18, 2009, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by encorp View Post
PRIMER IS ALWAYS REQUIRED. NO IF ANDS OR BUTS!
yes 100% right on that one you are mate ( i have painted so many cases i have lost count primer is needed )
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