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  #21 (permalink)  
Old June 27, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Well I put it all together and plumbed it. Unfortunately the top 120mm rad did not fit as because it interferes with the 4-pin power connector...oh well, the plumbing is quite a bit simpler now.

As far as making it all fit...7/12" tubing is a pain to fit over "perfect seal" barbs like these:

.

The same type of connector is used on an MCP655, but plastic. I spent a good hour trying to connect the tubing with various amounts of hydrx as lube and angles of approach...Finally I gave up and boiled some water and dipped tubing ends in hot water, which finally allowed me to fit the tubing over those damn barbs. I would not recommend doing this for "regular" barbs though, as the tubing cools when you put it on, it contracts and it becomes impossible to push on the barb completely - it basically sticks in place, and the amount of force required to push it in completely would probably break something. Just use a bit of hydrx (a la Linus's NCIX tech tips vid) and the tubing slides on without too much effort.

I'll post pictures when I'm back from work.

Last edited by nikitos; June 29, 2008 at 07:19 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old June 27, 2008, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by nikitos View Post
Word of advice to anyone wanting to buy hoseclamps...get them from tddirect. To my surprise they're actually cheaper online than at CT...at CT they're like 1.09/clamp.
For the metal hose clamps, you can get them at Home Depot for like $0.60-0.70 each.
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Old June 27, 2008, 10:32 AM
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Dipping the ends of 7/16" tubing in boiling water for 30 seconds before installing them on 1/2" barbs is the way to go. But you have to completly insert the hose on the barb at once; you cannot let the hose cool while it's not completly installed - otherwise, you have to cut the hose and start over.
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Old June 27, 2008, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
Dipping the ends of 7/16" tubing in boiling water for 30 seconds before installing them on 1/2" barbs is the way to go. But you have to completly insert the hose on the barb at once; you cannot let the hose cool while it's not completly installed - otherwise, you have to cut the hose and start over.

Yup figured that one out the hard way...on the cpu block of all places.



Pro-tip: be sure to wash your hands after late night assembly sessions, or your lunch will taste like hydrx.

Last edited by nikitos; June 27, 2008 at 03:16 PM.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old June 28, 2008, 01:22 AM
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going to fill and bleed this tomorrow hopefully:

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Old June 28, 2008, 02:29 AM
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Lookin' good! But, wouldn't it be better if you had the rad go to the CPU first, as that would be the hottest component in your system?
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Old June 28, 2008, 11:19 AM
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Lookin' good! But, wouldn't it be better if you had the rad go to the CPU first, as that would be the hottest component in your system?
The order of a loop will barely change the water temperature at all, a few degrees at the very most, but normally <1C. After work I'll see if I can find the link that shows how to calculate the increase in temperature.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old June 28, 2008, 12:26 PM
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yep. water moves so fast through the loop it barely changes temperature, because it has a high heat capacity. It does take away the heat from cpu/gpu though and dumps in in the rad, so the order of the loop does not really matter.
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Old June 28, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Leak testing right now:



Unfortunately the coolant did not turn out as dark as I hoped, and I've used about 1.5 cans of hydrx. probably because I did not really mix it, so it settled to the bottom of the container.
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Old June 28, 2008, 02:46 PM
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It looks like you computer has the flu.
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